codfather79 said:

Point taken.
But, there does seem to be a fair bit of abuse here to people who have made a genuine mistake with where they have posted their thread
As for asking/giving advice, hopefully once project Noel is complete, I can stop asking questions/for help/advice and give guidance to a new set of newbies in the position I currently am.
I don't blame you for not wanting to moderate, it's a thankless task!

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allan downes said:

Hi. Sorry for a bit of a rant. But yes exactly. I’ve tried everything. And most of the system is new or been checked. I’ve tried separate. Parts of the system too even bleeding from abs block. Thankyou. Its really frustrating atm.

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sierrafery said:

if you feel able to work with that wiring improvisation and read a wiring diagram i'll tell you how to "pulse the valves" with a piece of wire and a switch

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sierrafery said:

I edited the relevant parts from the D1 electric troubleshooting manual to explain(see attachments), what you see at the bottom of the first pic are the valves within the modulator(so called "booster"): so, you have to insert a switch on a piece of wire and split it in two at one side(drawn with red and blue) with some needle pins which can be inserted into modulator's connector C129 from behind in situ.
The second pic shows it's face view, concetrate to not confuse the pins from behind, corroborate with wire colours, for example SN = slate(grey) with brown trace and so on for all, make the improvised wiring long enough to reach the modulator's plug from the cabin, find a permannent 12V in there somewhere to connect that wire or get to the battery directly.
Once the wire has 12V in it when you close the switch it will energise the two solenoids at the same time, one is N/C the other N/O, as it's on the diagram the solenoids for the right rear wheel will "pulse", for front left you'll have to insert the wires to pins 5 - 8 and so on for all.
You'll have to unplug the ABS ECU as to not back feed it, ignition off then pedal bleed each side while you turn on and off the switch consecutively if you see what i mean, that's what you would do if a diagnostic tool was connected to energise the solenoids...
you can do an even more complex thing to split the wire after the switch in 3 and insert one part into the brown/red wire of te round two pin connector on te modulator which would energise the pump at the same time with the solenoids and then you dont need to push the pedal just switch on and off while bleeding at the nipples, this would be a real power bleed like on the D2 happens, just make sure that the tank doesnt get empty.
Let me know if something is unclear for you eventually find a friend who understands electrics well and show him this thread cos it should be logical enough.
Good luck cos i have some doubts that this will help with your sinking pedal but if it will at least we learned something... though if it doesnt help then you can tell to that reputable landy specialist that he was talking b0ll0x cos no diagnostic tool can do more for the D1.

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