How did you bleed them and why?
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
You dont need the engine to run, even more according to wabco the battery must be disconnected and you must do it in the right sequence starting with the longest line and ending with the shortest, wabco procedure is a bit different than what's in RAVE, i'd better follow them... see Manual bleed procedure from the bottom of page 2 of the attached document... if no joy it means there's a leak somewhere or the master cylinder failed coincidentally
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
thats fine,you dont need engine running,but did you clamp flexis before removing caliper,or let a lot of fluid escape,does pedal go hard when pumped a couple of times
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
possibly but iys not uncommon after fitting new pattern calipers that a couple of pumps is required as new seals retract pistons from the pad,meaning theres not enough pedal travel on one push, the answer is to remove pads and pump pistons out a little then lever back till pad just fits in
discool
Well-Known Member
Hopefully you clamped the flexible hose to each caliper before replacing it, than you will only have a small amount of air to expel, it has been known the manual style of bleeding that is pushing the brake pedal to the floor on an older vehicles will destroy the master cylinder seals (pushing a corroded operating rod into an area it's never been before) so that may have happened.
When I do a fluid replacement I have the engine running, I use the one-man bleeding which is nothing more than a bit of plastic tube with a ball bearing in the end so a bit of servo assistance helps, but it works and as I use my own experience when service my brakes and not official methods, I don't bother with RAVE.
Sent from my iPad Air on a train
When I do a fluid replacement I have the engine running, I use the one-man bleeding which is nothing more than a bit of plastic tube with a ball bearing in the end so a bit of servo assistance helps, but it works and as I use my own experience when service my brakes and not official methods, I don't bother with RAVE.
Sent from my iPad Air on a train
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
you will have to bleed all 4 wheels as you would normally is ok,check pedal is hard and doesnt sink under pressure before driving the vehicle
Magicgrotto
Well-Known Member
TOOk ALL the ABS crap off mine ! best brakes I'v ever had !
TOOk ALL the ABS crap off mine ! best brakes I'v ever had !
Magicgrotto
Well-Known Member
Best thing I ever did ! it would scare me to death thinking it would never stop ! even took the valve out of line now it stops when I wont it to !
Always good to ask why, you could have been changing the fluid or just fitting new pads and your MC failed, you changed calipers without priming them first or clamping the flexy pipes, that means you had a lot of air to expel first, not sure how the ABS reacts to air locks or not? As above really bleed from furthers point to closest and keep going til you get a decant pedal.
Not uncommon for aged MCs to fail after an extensive bout of brake bleeding.
You can remove the ABS, easily enough done on older cars as it's not fully integrated into the whole system, just needs a bit of time, patience, 3/16 cunifer, selection of brake unions and a flaring tool.
Not uncommon for aged MCs to fail after an extensive bout of brake bleeding.
You can remove the ABS, easily enough done on older cars as it's not fully integrated into the whole system, just needs a bit of time, patience, 3/16 cunifer, selection of brake unions and a flaring tool.
Joemac434
Well-Known Member
What do you reckon the insurance would say about removing the abs if it was factory fit and you have a crash ? Must be a bit of a grey area if you've removed a safety feature ?
