Nodge68
Well-Known Member
What vehicle?
Although fitting a replacement is much the same regardless of vehicle.
First you need to work out if there is enough room between the hub and hub carrier to get the new stud in, as studs are fitted before the hub is pressed onto the bearing.
If the stud is just a couple of mm too long, it is possible to grind a little bit off, but no more than 2 or 3 threads.
You need to remove the broken stud, which is easily done by a punch and hammer.
The new stud (cut down if needed) is then passed in from the back, and the nut used to draw the stud into place by tightening a nut onto the threads, you may need some washers to pack between the nut and hub.
You can buy replacement studs on eBay.
Although fitting a replacement is much the same regardless of vehicle.
First you need to work out if there is enough room between the hub and hub carrier to get the new stud in, as studs are fitted before the hub is pressed onto the bearing.
If the stud is just a couple of mm too long, it is possible to grind a little bit off, but no more than 2 or 3 threads.
You need to remove the broken stud, which is easily done by a punch and hammer.
The new stud (cut down if needed) is then passed in from the back, and the nut used to draw the stud into place by tightening a nut onto the threads, you may need some washers to pack between the nut and hub.
You can buy replacement studs on eBay.
Hi. Freelander 1 2004. Thanks for the answer. Really? only punching I can remove the broken stund?
Pardon my ignorance, but what is this replacement called?
I assume it will come out the back. Tomorrow I try. Thanks again.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Yes. A 1kg club hammer driving a 10mm parallel punch will pop the broken stud out. You punch it through from the wheel side to the back.
If it's for a Freelander 1, these are the studs.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rov...=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
I did it on the TD4 last year
It is an easy cheap fix tbh
It is an easy cheap fix tbh
There is no space between the cube and the support!!! the screw does not fit. Do I have to remove the hub? how? Thank you.
How you did it?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Put pictures on the thread.
Put pictures on the thread.
you can see that there is no space... I thought about drilling the rear drum support to pass the bolt from behind but it is not possible because of the CV joint support and suspension arms
no, the transmission comes out but the hub is still in place
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
First thing is to see how many threads the wheel nuts screw on. If it's more than 10 turns, then you can cut the replacement stud down the number of threads more than 10. The theory is that an 12 nut only needs 12mm of thread engagement, which is 10 turns.
Cutting a few threads off the length, might just give you enough clearance to slide the replacement stud in from the back.
To help a bit more, is to file the stud hole at an angle, just enough to allow more room, as the hole is now angled.
Cutting a few threads off the length, might just give you enough clearance to slide the replacement stud in from the back.
To help a bit more, is to file the stud hole at an angle, just enough to allow more room, as the hole is now angled.
or remove the hub bearing assembly from the carrier (4 bolts ?), and then there should be plenty of room to replace the stud ?
Or just remove the hub section with the studs. https://www.landroverblogger.com/how-to-replace-a-wheel-bearing-on-a-freelander
Or just remove the hub section with the studs. https://www.landroverblogger.com/how-to-replace-a-wheel-bearing-on-a-freelander
That hub in the photo is not the same... It looks like I'll have to remove the hub from the bearing but I don't have any tools for that and I'm afraid of damaging the bearing. Thank you very much for your support.
Removing the hub will damage the bearing.
Replacing the bearing is a pig.
I have just done mine on a 2002 TD4. Won't do that again in a hurry, everything was rusted in solid, and removing the long cross bolt was a real pain in the arse!
If you can cut the bolt down slightly, that would be my prefered solution.
Chris
Replacing the bearing is a pig.
I have just done mine on a 2002 TD4. Won't do that again in a hurry, everything was rusted in solid, and removing the long cross bolt was a real pain in the arse!
If you can cut the bolt down slightly, that would be my prefered solution.
Chris
Could you drill a hole in the drum backing plate to pass the new stud through?
- remove old stud
- mark centre of new hole through old stud hole onto backing plate
- drill pilot hole through backing plate, going through stud hole using long drill bit
- enlarge hole in backing plate by drilling from inboard side
- push stud into hole in hub through hole in backing plate
- place socket / pipeover stud threads protruding from hib
- put wheel nut on stud threads after socket and tighten nut to pull stud into position
- plug hole in backing plate with blanking grommit
- reassemble brakes as usual
- celebrate job donw with a beer and toast that beer to the good health of a certain scottish idiot who came up with the procedure to fix your car
Oh! thank you very much!!!!
I thought about this option but thought it was crazy because no one else had done it and it seems like very little "drillable" space. Perhaps I will entrust the work to a workshop that will balance the cardan shaft for me. Thanks for your time!!!!
