wickford90

wickford90

Well-Known Member
My rear diff is on the way out so i have just bought a used one for £60, Im assuming this will also have had plenty of wear, my question is would it be worth replacing any parts inside before i fit it, bearing etc, Also what should i check on it before fitting.
Thanks
 
They're not for the inexperienced mechanic and need a bit of setting up and alignment - as long as the teeth aren't chipped or pitted, there's no corrosion, the bearings are quiet and smooth and there's not too much backlash it should be alright. Check there are the same number of cogs on the one your putting in as the one you're taking out. Different gear ratios will bugger your gearbox.
 
feel the diff flange any free play/end float dont fit diff ,you can feel backlash by rocking rotationally
 
ok this is the diff i have bought, is this ok for a 2001 td5 90. only no's are shown in the pics. teeth seem ok no chips etc.have rocked the flange and play is about a mm left to right. will get it cleaned up and check everything again.
 
wickford90 said:
ok this is the diff i have bought, is this ok for a 2001 td5 90. only no's are shown in the pics. teeth seem ok no chips etc.have rocked the flange and play is about a mm left to right. will get it cleaned up and check everything again.
Click to expand...

Sorry pics won't upload.will try again
 
here it is
 

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numbers are casting numbers and dont mean anything relavent,dirty beasty isnt it,just wipe the worst off and fit
 
What is the circular casting bolted above the flange, mine doesn't have one, do i take it off and bin it ?. and how can i check its the correct ratio before i take the old one out.
 
wieght is a vibration damper you can remove it ,it will be 3,54 ,but you can count teeth on pinion should be 13 and 46 on crown wheel ,or 3,54 turns of flange to 1 turn of crown wheel ,check case studs
 
Is this a front unit and if so is it ok for the rear, i read you shouldnt use worn front diff on the rear
 
front and back are the same diff ,and yes if wear on teeth it may be noisy running on other side of teeth if swapped front to back ,but id say you would be all right with a later diff like youve got
 
194.jpgyeah definatley not for the inexpericed as i fit a outer bearing to my rear diff just near the flange on my old coil sprung lightweight and it locked up at 50 mph on main road near my area and this is what happend
 
Cleaned up the diff today and all the teeth are shiny clean with no chips, no play anywhere as far as i could tell. only concern is the disc that holds the bearings in ( don't know the name) the one with the holes around the side with a retaining pin,one of the pins looks as if it been pushed sideways and bent the disc, both of these have similar digs on them I'm assuming these have been out and maybe diff rebuilt at some time. Is it factory spec to use black mastic, as there is some inside and in bolt holes.
 
they are siliconed in from factory ,the adjusters you refer to are used to set crown wheel backlash and bearing preload,if you stand diff with flange downwards in vice jaws so diff is free to rotate,mark one cap so you know which side is which ,undo caps and tap off,lift out diff carrierc,heck bearings, you can feel wear if you push hard on outer race while rotating bearing as well as looking,knock pins in cap so they will allow adjusters to turn when refitted ,fit diff carrier back in and ensure it rocks with freeplay between cw and pinion, fit caps and tighten bolts so they are just nipped not really tight fit adjusters and wind them in to contact bearings,the one furthest from crown wheel slacken back to leave enough space that bearing doesnt push asgainst it ,adjust one nearest crown wheel so that freeplay is taken out of crown wheel and pinion ,adjust the other now so that it puts back freeplay etween crown wheel and pinion about 6 thou,knock roll pins in to lock adjusters and remove 1 bolt per cap loctite and torque up then the other 2 diff set ,its not difficult and could explain it better on phone if you wanted
 
jamesmartin said:
they are siliconed in from factory ,the adjusters you refer to are used to set crown wheel backlash and bearing preload,if you stand diff with flange downwards in vice jaws so diff is free to rotate,mark one cap so you know which side is which ,undo caps and tap off,lift out diff carrierc,heck bearings, you can feel wear if you push hard on outer race while rotating bearing as well as looking,knock pins in cap so they will allow adjusters to turn when refitted ,fit diff carrier back in and ensure it rocks with freeplay between cw and pinion, fit caps and tighten bolts so they are just nipped not really tight fit adjusters and wind them in to contact bearings,the one furthest from crown wheel slacken back to leave enough space that bearing doesnt push asgainst it ,adjust one nearest crown wheel so that freeplay is taken out of crown wheel and pinion ,adjust the other now so that it puts back freeplay etween crown wheel and pinion about 6 thou,knock roll pins in to lock adjusters and remove 1 bolt per cap loctite and torque up then the other 2 diff set ,its not difficult and could explain it better on phone if you wanted
Click to expand...

Thanks, if i am going to take it apart should i not just be safe and replace bearings or is there more to it than that, preload and adjustment etc. will get a pic up of the damage to the adjusters. Everything in the diff seems good,I am worried if i take it apart i will balls up and spend more getting put right.
 
not if there good .pinion if no end float is already set, if you follow instructions you cant go wrong and your more than welcome to talk on the phone ,new bearings if you wanted would be rtc3095g
 
jamesmartin said:
not if there good .pinion if no end float is already set, if you follow instructions you cant go wrong and your more than welcome to talk on the phone ,new bearings if you wanted would be rtc3095g
Click to expand...

Will probably take you up on that if i get stuck, but won't be for a couple of weeks.
Thanks.
 
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