G

Grange Grover

New Member
My 2001 2.5 DHSE has been down on power and low MPG for several months, I have checked most of the obvious things people have suggested on this forum (Replaced turbo hoses, cleaned out intercooler, replaced MAP sensor pipe, cleaned MAF sensor) without success.

I am now thinking it could be the in tank lift pump because if I remove the pump fuse or relay the car still run's exactly the same as with the fuse/relay in circuit, this can't be right, can it?

When I place an ampmeter in place of the fuse, it draws 0.9 amps and 1.1 when revved hard. I have read on hear somewhere it should draw more like 3 - 4 amps?

I can hear the pump run for about 20 seconds when the ignition is switched on so the electrical integrity to the pump is OK.

It also starts first turn of the key every time hot or cold.

What do you guys think?
 
what sort of mpg you getting,mines gauge is reading 19.8:(not great eh,diesels are slow anyway,maybe it just needs a damn good service,maybe some injector cleaner and a real good blast.i find mine runs alot better after giving it some welly.people are scared to drive these cars hard but its what diesels love,well thats my bit someone will be along shortly and tell me i,m talking bollocks but thats what i like best about this site.the humour:D
 
I have had the car for over 3 years and up until a few months ago it would always average high 20's now it's in the low 20's.

I am just surprised it still run's as "well" as it does with the lift pump fuse and relay removed.

I am 99% sure the impeller has dropped off the end of the pump motor, or there is a split in the internal pump pipe work. I assume when the fuell level drops below the split the FIP will draw in air instead of fuel and the car will stop?

I have never let the tank drop below about third from empty, even more reason not to let it drop now?
 
Grange Grover said:
I have had the car for over 3 years and up until a few months ago it would always average high 20's now it's in the low 20's.

I am just surprised it still run's as "well" as it does with the lift pump fuse and relay removed.

I am 99% sure the impeller has dropped off the end of the pump motor, or there is a split in the internal pump pipe work. I assume when the fuell level drops below the split the FIP will draw in air instead of fuel and the car will stop?

I have never let the tank drop below about third from empty, even more reason not to let it drop now?
Click to expand...

The engine will run quite happily with the lift pump duff as long as there is fuel in the tank. The injector pump sucks fuel through until there is an air bubble then it will faulter. If the air bubble is big enough it will stop. You maybe correct in that there is a split in the feed pipe, only way to find out is to remove pump unfortunatly. You say the pump is running light ( not drawing the expected amps) that maybe a sign that it is just pumping out of the tank and back into it through the split and not under any load.
 
Last edited:
Sorted............

I changed the in tank fuel pump, using Canyon's excellent through the floor method, from his template thread.

The car's "performance" has been restored and I am now getting an average of 30 to the gallon, best it's been for about 18 month's.

Wish I had changed it before, but had difficulty believing the car would still run how it did with a duff pump.

For info with an amp meter across the pump fuse the new pump now draws 4.5 amps.

A big thanks to everybody for your help, and especially to Canyon for saving me time & grief with his "through the floor" method of tank pump replacement.
 
Grange Grover said:
Sorted............

I changed the in tank fuel pump, using Canyon's excellent through the floor method, from his template thread.

The car's "performance" has been restored and I am now getting an average of 30 to the gallon, best it's been for about 18 month's.

Wish I had changed it before, but had difficulty believing the car would still run how it did with a duff pump.

For info with an amp meter across the pump fuse the new pump now draws 4.5 amps.

A big thanks to everybody for your help, and especially to Canyon for saving me time & grief with his "through the floor" method of tank pump replacement.
Click to expand...

Your most welcome....
 
Grange Grover said:
Sorted............

I changed the in tank fuel pump, using Canyon's excellent through the floor method, from his template thread.

The car's "performance" has been restored and I am now getting an average of 30 to the gallon, best it's been for about 18 month's.

Wish I had changed it before, but had difficulty believing the car would still run how it did with a duff pump.

For info with an amp meter across the pump fuse the new pump now draws 4.5 amps.

A big thanks to everybody for your help, and especially to Canyon for saving me time & grief with his "through the floor" method of tank pump replacement.
Click to expand...
average 30 to the gallon,someone fetch me a new fuel pump quick,my 19 to the gallons destroying me bank balance:)
 
bart2181 said:
average 30 to the gallon,someone fetch me a new fuel pump quick,my 19 to the gallons destroying me bank balance:)
Click to expand...

New pump must work same as PSI power box, the inject more fuel use less principal. There may well be a surge in fuel pump sales over the next few weeks.:D:D:D
 
Hi guys!!!

Because the RR it´s my wife cars, (usually, I only drive it in weekends, and also in the night).
I recently found, that in hot days (more than 25º C), the car loose his power and with a full tank I can only drive for 600 km (375 miles):doh:.

Now that i remember, this happens since I bought it about 2 years ago, but, because I remap him last winter, the difference is more notorious now.

One mechanic, tell me when this happens it´s usually a MAF problem...

I also check the MAP sensor and his ok!

So my first question is: RR and BMW(E39), MAF is the same?
Because i can´t found on line any shop that sell a MAF for the RR.
(Also, if they are the same, I can "easily" test a BMW MAF)

The other is: did the fuse for the lift pump is in the handbook, (to check if the problem is not MAF related but with the pump), or what fuse number?

Where can I get the "canyon" method? for changing eventually the pump, or take a Look.

Thanks
 
tomcatrr said:
Hi guys!!!

Because the RR it´s my wife cars, (usually, I only drive it in weekends, and also in the night).
I recently found, that in hot days (more than 25º C), the car loose his power and with a full tank I can only drive for 600 km (375 miles):doh:.

Now that i remember, this happens since I bought it about 2 years ago, but, because I remap him last winter, the difference is more notorious now.

One mechanic, tell me when this happens it´s usually a MAF problem...

I also check the MAP sensor and his ok!

So my first question is: RR and BMW(E39), MAF is the same?
Because i can´t found on line any shop that sell a MAF for the RR.
(Also, if they are the same, I can "easily" test a BMW MAF)

The other is: did the fuse for the lift pump is in the handbook, (to check if the problem is not MAF related but with the pump), or what fuse number?

Where can I get the "canyon" method? for changing eventually the pump, or take a Look.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Remove relay 12 in fuse box that controls lift pump.
 
tomcatrr said:
Thanks to all of you, I check and found, only 0.88 A. Can anyone "send me" or link me, who we remove the pump? Are LR and BMW pump the same? Thanks
Click to expand...

You can take out the tank. Or put Canyon in the search at top of page, his article describing how to cut floor is there.
 
Mine seems to be exhibiting the same symptoms - low power/low mpg - so I'll give reading the Amps a go methinks.

Then I suppose its got to be booked in to a garage for the pump change - although I can handle a lot of spannering type tasks, I'm really not confident chopping holes in the floor! Unless someone lives "local" and fancies doing it for me/helping? I would ask the Butler but he'd only tell me to f**k off!
 
There is a TSB on the TOPIx site about this problem, or at least problems with hot and cold starting.

If it helps, you can test the flow rate at the filter by removing a pipe and checking that at least 180ml per 10 seconds is flowing at the pipe.
 
RAV said:
Mine seems to be exhibiting the same symptoms - low power/low mpg - so I'll give reading the Amps a go methinks.

Then I suppose its got to be booked in to a garage for the pump change - although I can handle a lot of spannering type tasks, I'm really not confident chopping holes in the floor! Unless someone lives "local" and fancies doing it for me/helping? I would ask the Butler but he'd only tell me to f**k off!
Click to expand...

sack the butler,the lazy twot.:D:D.mine does as he is told.:rolleyes:
 
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