dirtyrhino
New Member
The top ring is the High Pressure system, and NOT the overspill, as NRGserv has said.
Yes, Plumbers tape will dissolve. Any leaks around the top of the casing would suggest the seal has gone internally, and seeing as it's under pressure, no bodge will help you.
If your feeling brave, and have the means to work in a CLEAN area, remove the injector pump, ma,king a VERY clear mark for the timing pposition on the casing AND the block, then strip the top carefully, making a note of the orientation and position of the vanes inside. Get the reassembly wrong, or dirty, and you'll have more problems.
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dirtyrhino
New Member
I need to remove this exact pump part to stop a leak around the accl. shaft on my pump ! So i assume it's just two capping nuts holding it on ?
biker1981
New Member
i think this is beyond me.... is there any specialist I can send it to who could recondition it?
biker1981
New Member
If I bought a second hand one... punt i know... is it just a case of refitting it or do I have to do all the timing etc... and is it difficult please?
nrgserv
Well-Known Member
no idea d.r.!
i pinched the pic off the net as it were the only one i could find.
not been inside one meself, do you want me to strip the other one?
dirtyrhino
New Member
Hya dude - nah, don't sweat it - I went ahead last night and it's just as straight forward as I thought
But cheers for the kind offer !Basically the stop lever and the accelerator lever shafts go through the rectangular "box" on the side of the injector pump. The housing is held on by two dome nuts - just undo these and then pop off the cover. BEWARE this casing is a wet housing, and full of diesel, so a pot or pre-draining is advised !
BE CAREFUL OF THE SEAL, ASWELL !
The accl. shaft is connected to a spring inside, so don't just go tugging the case off.
Then I just popped the shafts out of the casing and replaced the (****ed) O-Rings on both shafts. Re-assembly is a bit of a pain in the buttocks, but not impossible.
No more leaks on mine, thank fook. But mine was a different problem.
Biker - if your positive the leak is from the top, i'd suggest whipping the pump off once you've found someone to service it.
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dirtyrhino
New Member
The thing with a second hand pump would be some backlash/wear in the gearing, and obvious wear in the pump itself, so you'd more than likely need to do a small amount of timing adjustment.
I've never had to do it myself, but it'd be a fairly straight forward task.
But first, make totally sure that's where the leak is from. Clean the pump off with degreaser, wipe it dry, and then run the engine for a bit, and watch for the diesel. remember, diesel wicks really well, so you need to watch carefully for it's origin
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
ive got a serice manual for cav pumps, if youre working on one and want a copy pm me your email,
have asearch for diesel pump timing on here theres a few good ones
PTFE dosent dissolve in oil or water
PTFE Thread Seal Tape,PTFE Thread Sealing Tape,Polytetrafluoroethylene Thread Seal Tape,Suppliers
have asearch for diesel pump timing on here theres a few good ones
PTFE dosent dissolve in oil or water
PTFE Thread Seal Tape,PTFE Thread Sealing Tape,Polytetrafluoroethylene Thread Seal Tape,Suppliers
biker1981
New Member
The thing with a second hand pump would be some backlash/wear in the gearing, and obvious wear in the pump itself, so you'd more than likely need to do a small amount of timing adjustment.
I've never had to do it myself, but it'd be a fairly straight forward task.
But first, make totally sure that's where the leak is from. Clean the pump off with degreaser, wipe it dry, and then run the engine for a bit, and watch for the diesel. remember, diesel wicks really well, so you need to watch carefully for it's origin
Yeah its a tricky on.... when i clean it off and start the engine... it fills up around the bit where the two parts of the pump meet.
I tried bew copper washers today, but when i took the bolt out and atempted to put it back in the thread was quite chewed and was difficult to get in.
The plan is to buy a new banjo bolt... land rover one ( unless anyone knows of a cheaper one to buy).. I also going to chang the fuel pipe bit where the banjo bolt goes through.. new copper washes.... and if that dont work some ptfe tape.. and well. after that.... Maybe to a landrover garage
nrgserv
Well-Known Member
sounds like the high compression head on the pump could have a knacked thread too, may be worth finding the thread size and running a tab down it. problem here is all the swarf your gonna introduce into the head.
would try a diesel injection specialist first, but suspect your gonna end up swapping the pump.
unfortunately i dont have a 2.25 engine to try the pumps on that i have.
will be in touch re getting one to you.
would try a diesel injection specialist first, but suspect your gonna end up swapping the pump.
unfortunately i dont have a 2.25 engine to try the pumps on that i have.
will be in touch re getting one to you.
HermanTheGerman
New Member
10 years on, I have the exact same problem with the banjo fitting on the fuel pump: There is fuel leaking, I have tried everything to fix the banjo fitting (cleaned contact areas, used new copper washers), but the leak persists. It looks like the fuel is coming from the banjo fitting and then running down the fuel pump, but could the leak actually be at the seam between the lower pump housing and the top part of the pump? So I'd be curious if Biker1981 was ever able to figure out the cause for the leak. I'm reattaching your photo. My situation is exactly the same!! Much appreciated.
tottot
Well-Known Member
Folk who do not know for sure should not post, it causes confusion.
That in the pic is as some have said of a high pressure feed to injectors.
As the washers for this fitting have been replaced it is likely not leaking as long as faces have not been damaged.
Cause is likely the O ring that seals the pressure head to the body of the pump.
Have a look on you tube CAV DPA pump repair " BUNDY BEAR " in Aus does good video'.
That in the pic is as some have said of a high pressure feed to injectors.
As the washers for this fitting have been replaced it is likely not leaking as long as faces have not been damaged.
Cause is likely the O ring that seals the pressure head to the body of the pump.
Have a look on you tube CAV DPA pump repair " BUNDY BEAR " in Aus does good video'.
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HermanTheGerman
New Member
Thanks. Really a great video. I think I'll give it a go now. Rebuild kit is already ordered, so I'll get started in a few days and let you know how it goes. Thanks again for the tip!
tottot
Well-Known Member
I am in the middle of doing one of mine that has been standing several years, as Bundy suggested stuck pistons in the high pressure section was the problem. All cleaned up and free now after a good rub on a bit of velcro [ cleans without scratching ] and some velcro on a dowel cleans the bores.
Tip as you strip it down take pics to remind yourself how it goes together and make a note of which holes the throttle housing spring fits.
Tip as you strip it down take pics to remind yourself how it goes together and make a note of which holes the throttle housing spring fits.
HermanTheGerman
New Member
Hi tottot, thanks for all the helpful advice. I went through the process of replacing all seals, as shown in Bundy Bear's videos, and everything works fine now. I used the replacement kit from Sparex, item S 57135. Once you take the pump apart, it's pretty obvious why it was leaking. There is a very thin O-ring right below the ridge between the pump head and the housing. It was rock-hard, no wonder it was leaking. So I replaced this seal and others, and they all were very hard and not nearly as flexible as the new ones. Taking a lot of photos certainly helps and speeds up the reassembling, and working very methodically helps, too. One tip from this experience: Don't skip the bench-test that Bundy Bear suggests. This way you know that the pump works fine when you put it in, and if the engine doesn't start, you can leave the pump alone and focus on other causes. In my case, I hadn't done the bench test and the engine didn't start at first, so I took the pump back out, checked it and all was fine, but I had to put it back in. Then, after bleeding per the LR manual and pumping the gas pedal when starting the engine, it finally came to life. The manual says "full throttle", but that didn't work for me until I started pumping the pedal. Also, the bleeding screw on the governor housing may not emit a lot of fuel, but that's fine, as long as the other bleeding screw emits a nice flow of fuel (and you pump the pedal). So thanks again, and I think the issue discussed in the thread is now officially resolved, thanks you tottot!
tottot
Well-Known Member
Good you have got it sorted, Finely got mine back together the other day and tested on the bench. Put a length [ foot ] of clear tubing in the fuel inlet and filled with diesel then spun it by hand. Nice globs of fuel coming out when in run position and none when stop operated just like in Bundy Bears video.
Weather has so far prevented refit to Landy.
Weather has so far prevented refit to Landy.
