No probs any time my friend.Thanks Tony ,feel as if I've been on an electrical apprenticeship the last few weeks, your phone calls helped.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Does your dvm have a continuity setting?
If not
*edit too late
If not
*edit too late
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Well you have continuity, time to check the plug cleanliness and the wiring.
Lukas018
Well-Known Member
Just attached photo of wiring can see the repairs I done, the connections at the sensor look bit suspect but not damaged, if they were would if affect the continuity?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
I'll check my spare one for a resistance comparison tomorrow if it would help.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
On such fine wire, those crimp connectors may not giving a good connection. Personally in the absence of the plug and socket I would make solder connections and insulate with heat shrink.
Lukas018
Well-Known Member
If you could check the reading on your spare would appreciate that?
Yeah that's a fair point will do that we did it as quick fix get it going. I am bit concerned on where it is soldered onto the sensor looks like they might need re-soldering?
But hard to tell without taking the injector out.
Lukas018
Well-Known Member
Thanks mate the ohms reading I took was on the resistance setting. I got a continuity setting will try that aswell just to be sureDoes your dvm have a continuity setting?
If not
View attachment 213547 View attachment 213548
*edit too late
Lukas018
Well-Known Member
Thanks mate, I am not sure about the polarity either, wouldn't think it would matter, I will solder the joints first see if that improves it.
In my opinion I find it annoying that the sensor and all cannot be replaced and if that is knakered, got to buy a new injector, I guess they were built to last and not expected to fail
On the socket the lift sensor plugs into there are two wires one Black the other Yellow. Black is the signal Yellow is the ground. You may have the wires transposed where you repaired them. Black is pin 1 on the plug Yellow is pin 2. Black wire goes to pin 5 ECU Yellow wire goes to pin 12 ECU.
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Datatek
Well-Known Member
Nothing German is made to last.Thanks mate, I am not sure about the polarity either, wouldn't think it would matter, I will solder the joints first see if that improves it.
In my opinion I find it annoying that the sensor and all cannot be replaced and if that is knakered, got to buy a new injector, I guess they were built to last and not expected to fail
If you have the polarity reversed, the signal may be out of phase.
Lukas018
Well-Known Member
Thanks only issue is both the cables are white on my wiring unless there is black and yellow under this the sheath. No writing on the cables either.
Think you need to reread what I said.
Lukas018
Well-Known Member
Not touched that wiring to the socket.
I repaired the wiring on the injector. Attached is old injector. I assume this is the correct path of pin 1 to LHS of injector and pin 2 to RHS of injector?
If so then I need to check one in the engine wiring has been repaired right way round.
Attachments
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Both wires inside the sheath on the injector are white which suggests polarity might not be important. Some people will never have seen the actual wires inside the sheath
Lukas018
Well-Known Member
Yeah I need to check if they are wrong way round. Only plays up when I change up a gear I suppose if sensor or wiring is wrong will not send enough fuel. If wiring is correct then sensor must be knakered. I need to swap the crimps for solder jointsBoth wires inside the sheath on the injector are white which suggests polarity might not be important. Some people will never have seen the actual wires inside the sheath
