G

grewth

Active Member
What are owners using to replace damaged fuel pipes on their diesels ?
I've found the original nylon type pipe that Land Rover used is almost impossible to work with.
Apparently you're supposed to heat up the end of the pipe before pushing it onto the union.
But when I try it (hot air gun) I just end up not hot enough, or melted pipe.
I know that the L R pipe is tough, but I don't have much confidence in it's sealing qualities.
I can remember pricing up genuine Land Rover fuel pipes a while ago - not cheap.
How about neoprene rubber pipes instead ?
 
Neoprene, rubber or silicon pipe should be fine, it's low pressure. I've not had to replace any pipe but i'd probably go for a rubber type.
 
I replaced the pipes on the tdi with rubber (or similar) no problem. Hard plastic pipe just seems a faff
 
My 101fc (which is now a diesel) is plumbed with clear nylon pipe. Like the 300tdi era builds, only clear, so you can see any air issues.

It took a while as there's so many size variants etc but none of it is "push on" but all done with compression fittings and little brass inserts (so the pipe does not crush under the compression olive)

Again it took a while but I'm pleased enough with it.
 
julianf said:
My 101fc (which is now a diesel) is plumbed with clear nylon pipe. Like the 300tdi era builds, only clear, so you can see any air issues.

It took a while as there's so many size variants etc but none of it is "push on" but all done with compression fittings and little brass inserts (so the pipe does not crush under the compression olive)

Again it took a while but I'm pleased enough with it.
Click to expand...
Sounds like a good system, I'll look into it myself.
Clear pipes would solve a lot of little diesel mysteries
 
The nylon pipe is great stuff, lasts for decades on air and fuel systems.
Real tough gear, I use modified mole grips to crush the pipe so I can isolate areas to work on compressed air systems.
I use it all the time at work, and never use heat as it shags it.
A good grip, some spit on the barb and get pushing, takes practice not to kink the pipe, I have shown loads of people how to do this over the years, every one of them was amazed it was so easy, as they had all been using heat/special tools etc.

I was repiping a volvo trucks air bags this way the other day, literally a few seconds work for each fitting.

I have replaced hundreds of pipes, possibly thousands of fittings, as DAF had a big fitting recall a decade or so ago.

Whilst the pipe might have the same outside diameter there are different wall thicknesses available, and the thicker the wall the smaller the inside dia which makes it harder to fit onto the barbs, but there is a tarde off, as the thinner wall is easier to kink.
 
Last edited:
Old W reg volvo, 2 million plus on the clock, so not new and easy to work on.
Old fitting with new pipe
Screenshot 2024-09-22 at 11.23.03.png


Old fitting with the original pipe which I had to cut to get the bracket off.

Screenshot 2024-09-22 at 11.23.27.png
 
Looks like I must be using the wrong technique then, either the damn thing just won't go on, or the pipe splits on me.
And I rate myself as having pretty strong fingers too.
 
grewth said:
Looks like I must be using the wrong technique then, either the damn thing just won't go on, or the pipe splits on me.
And I rate myself as having pretty strong fingers too.
Click to expand...
If it is splitting then the pipe has had its day, this is why we were doing the recall years ago as where the pipe stretches slightly to get it over the barb it was developing hairline splits.
It is just nylon air brake pipe, available at any commercial motor factors and of course ebay etc.
 
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