Wammers will know the size of the Allen key, look on the Bay for sump plug socket set.OK, tomorrow's the big day, weather permitting. All tools have now arrived. My plan is:
1) Remove inlet manifold to get an idea what I'm looking at.
2) Practice setting timing of old pump in case I break anything and to get a feel for how it is done. Check car still runs! Question: can I get a socket and breaker bar on the end of the crankshaft to turn the engine or do I have to use the tool that came with the timing kit?
3) Remove glow plugs and do a compression test on all cylinders. If issues here then might reassemble and look for a scrapper engine.
4) Replace the FIP with a refurbed unit. IIRC the tensioner cap has some massive Allen key shape. How do I get the cover unscrewed without an Allen key that large?
5) Time up the new FIP.
Fingers crossed it'll all come out OK. Anything likely to trip a newbie up?
Cheers.
I found a bolt head that fitted, cut it off and welded it to a bit of bar when I changed the tension idler pulley.
That's a good call. Got to be pretty close to a tow-bar bolt, IIRC.
Just about to find out ...
OK. And I am assuming I can test by replacing a glow-plug rather than having to remove the injectors?
Would this kit do?
DIESEL ENGINE COMPRESSION TESTER KIT / DIRECT AND INDIRECT INJECTION ENGINES | eBay
17 mm bolt head fits. As does the proper tool a 17 mm Allen key. The tool that came with the timing kit is for locking the crank to undo or torque up the crank nut. Breaker bar or ratchet on crank nut to turn engine always turn clockwise NEVER anti clockwise other than a jiggle to get locking pin in.
Haven't got that far. Got as far as testing the timing on the old pump before removal. The dial guage adapter I got (US PRO VW/Audi 3-In-1 Bosch VE Fuel Injection Pump Adapter Timing Tool B3178 | eBay) doesn't appear to be the right size. Nothing for the pin to screw into and 1 pin is too short and the other too long. Arse.
Funny i have exactly the same adaptor and mines fits perfectly. The pins screw into the end of the dial gauge. You will have to remove the ball end screwed into the dial gauge to screw the pin into it. You can then either screw the two parts of the adaptor together and use the long pin or use one half of it and use the short pin. One of the screw adaptors supplied should adapt the adaptor to the thread in the pump. Scratch your head and try again. The dial gauge then goes into the adaptor and when set is locked in place by the turn screw on the side. I somehow think you are going to struggle with this pump change.
Think you had better get someone who knows what they are doing on the job. People don't serve five year apprenticeships for nothing. If you have taken the sprocket holder out to soon and buggered about with the pump loose the tensioner may have pulled the chain and sent the sprocket out of position. You should have a tool to relieve tension on chain tensioner so you can get the holder back into the sprocket. But you will have to remove the cam cover.
Recovered, I think.
Tensioner was holding pump at funny angle so it couldn't get on properly. FIP back off.
Threads aren't completely gone. Locktite and tightened stud back in. Waiting for it to dry now.
Oddly enough I approached a few people but no-one seemed to want to do it. One guy even said "you couldn't afford it". Nice. Landy specialist too.
Think we can recover from here. Cup of tea time ...
Sounds like whisky time, I'm on my third but what the hell. You revved up for your get away on Thursday Wammers. Four more sleeps for me.
Getting there Alan. Motor is all sorted ready for trip to airport. Four and a bit for me.