is that a tiewrapped brake pipe i see before me
Diesel Do
Well-Known Member
Abs sensor cos it won't clip in the bracket any more. Need to get glue off the mounting rubber but it's well stuck. Other side moved. Stop being picky.
Diesel Do
Well-Known Member
Shows I look at and read yo posts.
Stop being sensitive
I can't help it
only real comment... is it worth making the base of the upright slightly bigger in diameter, to reduce flexing . looks like yu got room?
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Have you checked it for bump steer? Not sure if this is relevant to you but is a great watch if you haven't seen it before.
Oops, sorry didn't see you already mentioned bump steer. Still worth watching the video tho and all the others from Ep1. Very entertaining.
Oops, sorry didn't see you already mentioned bump steer. Still worth watching the video tho and all the others from Ep1. Very entertaining.
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Diesel Do
Well-Known Member
From my research!!!! Bump steer becomes an issue lowering or raising a significant amount because the angle of the track rod moves from the horizontal position so it moves in an arc and pulls the steering more. This has moved it back to horizontal so should reduce the effect. Never noticed it to be a problem though. See if it makes a difference. The yellow set up is a Porsche 911 bump steer kit for that very reason
Diesel Do
Well-Known Member
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Bump steer is controlled by a couple of factors. The angle of the lower arm and it's relationship to the steering arm are the two most important items in the Freelander's suspension.
When LR designed the system, they chose long steering arms, slightly down at the ends when sitting at normal hight. My guess was, to minimise bump steer at larger articulations. However this is only partially effective because the lower arms are quite a lot shorter than the steering arms. For minimum bump steer in general, both the steering arms and the lower arms need to be the same length and at the same angle at all suspension loadings. This is actually extremely difficult to achieve on a road car.
Something like a F1 car has minimal bump steer, by design. However those designs aren't practical on something like a Freelander.
In DDs high lift rack, the steering arm is almost too perfect. I would like to see a slighly less high, high lift. This would allow the steering arms to be slightly lower at the outer ends. This then mirrors the lower arm more closely, giving minimum bump steer. It's always slightly better for the outside wheel to tow in slightly under bump than to tow out, as it gives more predictable handling. Having flat steering arms will give tow out over bumps, which will make the steering feel vague and unpredictable.
With a lifted Freelander, there's always going to be a compromise due to the short lower arms and the angle they sit in relation to the steering arms.
Large tyres will help mask bump steer to a degree as the side walls flex. However it's best to get the actual geometry of the suspension as right as possible first.
When LR designed the system, they chose long steering arms, slightly down at the ends when sitting at normal hight. My guess was, to minimise bump steer at larger articulations. However this is only partially effective because the lower arms are quite a lot shorter than the steering arms. For minimum bump steer in general, both the steering arms and the lower arms need to be the same length and at the same angle at all suspension loadings. This is actually extremely difficult to achieve on a road car.
Something like a F1 car has minimal bump steer, by design. However those designs aren't practical on something like a Freelander.
In DDs high lift rack, the steering arm is almost too perfect. I would like to see a slighly less high, high lift. This would allow the steering arms to be slightly lower at the outer ends. This then mirrors the lower arm more closely, giving minimum bump steer. It's always slightly better for the outside wheel to tow in slightly under bump than to tow out, as it gives more predictable handling. Having flat steering arms will give tow out over bumps, which will make the steering feel vague and unpredictable.
With a lifted Freelander, there's always going to be a compromise due to the short lower arms and the angle they sit in relation to the steering arms.
Large tyres will help mask bump steer to a degree as the side walls flex. However it's best to get the actual geometry of the suspension as right as possible first.
Diesel Do
Well-Known Member
My theory too on the long arms mounted at the centre of the rack. The arc travelled is less aggressive for want of a better word. The further it moves from the horizontal the more it's going to pull the steering as it goes down. At the flat position the pull on the steering is less
The spacers are the same height as the lift. The wishbones are 20mm longer and about 10mm higher so the geometry is improved! I think!
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
That's a pretty substantial modification to the strut there DD. I was sceptical at the high steer idea, but you've removed that scepticism now
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
If it does, you're being to rough!!
