What about....

Place some rope on top of the piston, mount the head back on so when it reaches TDC it will lock the engine??
 
What about....

Place some rope on top of the piston, mount the head back on so when it reaches TDC it will lock the engine??

It is a R/H thread and is bloody tight. Special tool for holding crank. You MUST retighten this correctly as specified or you may lose the oil pump drive.
 
going to cut this off and "beef up" and try again, not sure my breaker bar was up to much more though

A good quality 24" breaker bar with an extension handle should do it, steady pressure no jerking. This is the time GOOD tools come into their own and cheap ****e fails. The head on a 24" bar is designed to take more torque than say a 15" or 18" bar, put a jack handle on a 15" bar to extend it and you will surely bust it on bolts like this. Horses for courses. I also have 3/4" socket sets so it is not a problem for me.
 
The Original LRT 12 105 is a really beefy item. My local Main dealer were kind enough to let me loan it for free, you could try the same, as Wammers has said it is essential for this operation. I had a lot of problems because the previous owner had lashed this job up.

From memory I think I put 100nm of torque and then buttoned in up in 3 stages of 60 degrees, 60 degrees and then a final tweak of 30 degrees.

Oh and bought a brand new bolt to refit as well, I understand that the bolt stretches slightly to lock?
 

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