Littelwill
Well-Known Member
I thought diesel liked it hotter Grrr?
Yeah but not so hot the head is leaking!
Ok so still having this issue, had to be recovered again, this time to the garage where the car is now. They are a bit mystified, a sniff test showed nothing and on a test drive the temperature was fine until the end when the gauge shot up, they suspect the sensor but it's still pushing coolant out of the overflow, now if the system isn't pressurising why is it doing this, I cannot understand. Now the fan could account for any overheating or the sensor but what about this overflow? Many thanks, Gary.
kapilamuni
Active Member
Change vc and see. You can use 300TDI vc ,its a direct fit and cheaper
goodd luck
goodd luck
The heater should be the first thing that gets warm. Unless you had an airlock and revving it burped it. Check the coolant level.
Before the stat opens coolant only goes around the head, block and heater. Heater should be first thing you notice that gets warm. Take the cap off and try burping the hoses see if the coolant level drops. If you have doubts about the water pump change it.
Hello all, I just thought I would post an update on this saga, so I replaced the water pump, however it still pushes coolant out of the cap and overflow. Keeping the coolant level only half way up the tank reduces this, it doesn't overheat apart from when going up a big hill at speed it started to but turning the blower on brought it back to normal (or the fan started working). A run of about five miles doesn't result in any coolant from the overflow but a longer run will. It seems it has to be pressurising but on the other hand it seems it can't be.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
The tank should not be full, check the cold level indicator arrow.
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
As Alan said , its not called an expantion tank for nothing there is a hot and cold markings on the side of tank if you have to much in there it will throw it out the top,.
Ok so I am pretty sure fan is ok as the valve on the front turns alright and there is resistance when it is span, however the car still overheats on hills (not always) and the heater only blows cold even though it is overheating! The blend motors are ok because the rest of the time they work fine, I have heard of a connection between overheating and the A/C being on, could this be it? Cheers.
Only had one once. I just kept pumping the hoses with the engine running and occasionally got in and revved it a bit then back out and squeeze wherever I could. Make sure that little line off the top of the rad is clear first. I had the cap off when doing it. Most times I've refilled I've got away with it.
Rather than start a new thread i thought it would be ok to add a new problem with a new car to this one?
Car ran fine until changing coolant.
Now overheats.
Brand new oem fan locks on cold start then loosens off but doesnt lock when overheating.
Header tank bubbles over sometimes even before it overheats if cap is off or pressurises a lot if cap on.
Stat seems to open.
Heater blows cold.
Cylinder leakdown and coolant static tests ok, dynamic coolant test eventually goes over 7 psi once it starts overheating.
Any help appreciated and sorry to go over old ground but i am stuck, cheers.
P. S. Water pump seems ok, metal impeller as well.
Car ran fine until changing coolant.
Now overheats.
Brand new oem fan locks on cold start then loosens off but doesnt lock when overheating.
Header tank bubbles over sometimes even before it overheats if cap is off or pressurises a lot if cap on.
Stat seems to open.
Heater blows cold.
Cylinder leakdown and coolant static tests ok, dynamic coolant test eventually goes over 7 psi once it starts overheating.
Any help appreciated and sorry to go over old ground but i am stuck, cheers.
P. S. Water pump seems ok, metal impeller as well.
