Fhit-Slicker

Fhit-Slicker

Member
hello folks,

Ok so I purchased myself a disco 1 commercial, the brakes are dia to say the least, over the last couple of 3 weekends I've tried to get them sorted, first weekend I bought all 4 corners discs and pads, 2nd weekend I relised I didn't have a 52mm socket, so far its not going well, now today omg what a mare,everything is so seized, so far I have managed to get one bolt out the flexy to steel pipe holder bracket on the top of the hub and one bolt out the bottom of the caliper.

Now this is where the fun starts, the top caliper to hub bolt has the spline type head so a 12 sided socket is needed, due to age, corrosion and tightness trying to undo it has managed to screw the splines up with the socket slipping round, I also think the pistons in the caliper are not seized solid but don't move like they should.

Now my question is..............has anyone had this bolt issue, if so how did you get it out? I have no hope of getting mole grips or stilsons on it, now as the caliper is scrap anyway do I grind the head off the bolt then cut the caliper off to get it out the way then I may be able to use the stilsons on the shaft of the bolt to ease it out,

Any help or advise will be very much appreciated

Thanks peeps
 
Struggling myself this weekend on a d3 and round bolt heads. Can't really help with your knackered 12 point bolt head, you need to break the rust seal really and then look at specialist sockets or even just grinding a slot in it for a big screwdriver.

Are you using a penetrating spray at all?

Rusted, seized fixings need -

Oil/plusgas/ATF and acetone mix - some kind of release agent

Heat where you can to expand and contract the metal thus breaking the rust seal

Brute force - breaker bars, well seated 6 sided sockets and 12 points on suitable fixings. Big feckin hammer where you can to knock the head of the bolt or nut without damaging it, but break the rust seal

Clean threads where you can. Wire brush and brake cleaner. Wind the bolt out a bit then back in and clean the now loosened shìte off the thread.

Goes with the territory of landys, unfortunately. I've played by the book today (mostly) and still ended up in the shìt

I'm not far from you in Wolverhampton if you're really stuck I could track over to you once mine's back on the road lol
 
Discoslow said:
Exactly the same happened to me. I got the bolts out using a bolt extractor tool. https://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/screw-bolt-extractors/bolt-extractors. Get it sprayed with lots of wd40 etc overnight. Once the bolt extractor bites they come off easy, but one was a pain and it broke the extractor. The shorter extractors that are not much bigger than the bolt head are less likely to break when used with a spanner.
Click to expand...

Got similar to those, they're quite good. Need to get another set tomorrow in bigger sizes
 
1988smithy said:
Struggling myself this weekend on a d3 and round bolt heads. Can't really help with your knackered 12 point bolt head, you need to break the rust seal really and then look at specialist sockets or even just grinding a slot in it for a big screwdriver.

Are you using a penetrating spray at all?

Rusted, seized fixings need -

Oil/plusgas/ATF and acetone mix - some kind of release agent

Heat where you can to expand and contract the metal thus breaking the rust seal

Brute force - breaker bars, well seated 6 sided sockets and 12 points on suitable fixings. Big feckin hammer where you can to knock the head of the bolt or nut without damaging it, but break the rust seal

Clean threads where you can. Wire brush and brake cleaner. Wind the bolt out a bit then back in and clean the now loosened shìte off the thread.

Goes with the territory of landys, unfortunately. I've played by the book today (mostly) and still ended up in the shìt

I'm not far from you in Wolverhampton if you're really stuck I could track over to you once mine's back on the road lol
Click to expand...


I have tried everything possible with the tools I have, heat, heat and lots more heat, hammers small and f-ing huge,smaller 12 sided sockets, smaller 12 sided spanners but its stuck fast, will be looking at an extractor tomorrow and if that fails I'll give you a shout, thanks for your kind offer.
 
Reading this I thank the Land Rover Gods that my Discovery had just had new discs and pads all round before I bought it in December..... with the above in mind I may just drop the wheels off and add a bit of copaslip here & there!
 
Discoslow said:
Exactly the same happened to me. I got the bolts out using a bolt extractor tool. https://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/screw-bolt-extractors/bolt-extractors. Get it sprayed with lots of wd40 etc overnight. Once the bolt extractor bites they come off easy, but one was a pain and it broke the extractor. The shorter extractors that are not much bigger than the bolt head are less likely to break when used with a spanner.
Click to expand...

Cheers for the link, gave it a good drowning in penetrating spray earlier and will do it again later, will be looking for a set of those extractors tomorrow as I think I will be needing them again
 
Discoslow said:
Exactly the same happened to me. I got the bolts out using a bolt extractor tool. https://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/screw-bolt-extractors/bolt-extractors. Get it sprayed with lots of wd40 etc overnight. Once the bolt extractor bites they come off easy, but one was a pain and it broke the extractor. The shorter extractors that are not much bigger than the bolt head are less likely to break when used with a spanner.
Click to expand...

I done the same thing & shattered the extractor but I was stuck so I had to get a cheap set back then..
now I have a snap on set I used them last week on the front calipers to do the wheel bearings & I was
hanging of it with a 2ft breaker bar worked a treat :D;)
 
I doubt you have bought a lemon - just a rusty one ..... which being a D1, is par for the course.... and being a 3 door, is sort of the way things are....

IMHO, the 3 doors are a nicer tool, but they also rot a lot worse than the 5 door :(
 
Disco1BFG said:
I doubt you have bought a lemon - just a rusty one ..... which being a D1, is par for the course.... and being a 3 door, is sort of the way things are....

IMHO, the 3 doors are a nicer tool, but they also rot a lot worse than the 5 door :(
Click to expand...

Love the look of the 3 doors, shame you don't see many about. Don't see many D1's really now by me
 
1988smithy said:
Love the look of the 3 doors, shame you don't see many about. Don't see many D1's really now by me
Click to expand...

SWMBO has a 3 door - it is a lovely vehicle, and she loves it too ..... Your right - there aren't many on the road now :( - but having done all the welding on hers, I do understand why .... ;)
 
1988smithy said:
Love the look of the 3 doors, shame you don't see many about. Don't see many D1's really now by me
Click to expand...

I know where there are a couple of 3 door ones but the lad wants to sell me 4 landys as a job lot
ive got 4 landys & I don't have the space for another 4 lol

But I do love a 3 door :cool:
 
Disco1BFG said:
SWMBO has a 3 door - it is a lovely vehicle, and she loves it too ..... Your right - there aren't many on the road now :( - but having done all the welding on hers, I do understand why .... ;)
Click to expand...

There's just 1 by me, he's got a 2inch lift and black modulars with a big offset on it but it's standard otherwise. Looks really straight but he does use it, mud all up the sides most weeks! Wonder what it looks like in the usual spots...
 
1988smithy said:
Love the look of the 3 doors, shame you don't see many about. Don't see many D1's really now by me
Click to expand...

I see one every day, sometimes wish I could drive it too but I'll make do with looking and concentrating on the weather forecast for now :oops:

Not a lemon, just not had the brakes done in a while.

If you are not bothered about the calipers then sacrifice them and get new ones.

In all honesty, for what it costs for brand new ones these days, it seems to be cheaper than SS pistons and seals.

Get some decent stud extractors too and chop chop drill drill and rebuild with new bolts and don't forget to get new locking tab washers for your hub nuts.
 
kevstar said:
I done the same thing & shattered the extractor but I was stuck so I had to get a cheap set back then..
now I have a snap on set I used them last week on the front calipers to do the wheel bearings & I was
hanging of it with a 2ft breaker bar worked a treat :D;)
Click to expand...

Money bags, would love to buy snap on but funds are low :(

Disco1BFG said:
I doubt you have bought a lemon - just a rusty one ..... which being a D1, is par for the course.... and being a 3 door, is sort of the way things are....

IMHO, the 3 doors are a nicer tool, but they also rot a lot worse than the 5 door :(
Click to expand...

Shame that, mine has had some done, never been of roaded though, typical, went with the 3 door cause its sunroof free which is an issue for others, thought that may help with the rot but obviously not :eek:

1988smithy said:
Love the look of the 3 doors, shame you don't see many about. Don't see many D1's really now by me
Click to expand...

Yeah you don't see many, a dieing breed, so worth keeping on the road :cool:

Disco1BFG said:
SWMBO has a 3 door - it is a lovely vehicle, and she loves it too ..... Your right - there aren't many on the road now :( - but having done all the welding on hers, I do understand why .... ;)
Click to expand...

I'm sure more will need doing sooner or later, start saving i think for a good welder :)

Si Click said:
Irwins are great quality, but even cheapies seem to work well. I bought a set of these to have in the D2s portable toolkit; I've used them a couple of times and they have worked flawlessly.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nut-bolt...h=item1cc9b8ef65:g:454AAOSwEP9ca27g:rk:1:pf:0
Click to expand...

Going to go with the irwin ones I think like these https://www.wickes.co.uk/cart

dieseldog69 said:
I see one every day, sometimes wish I could drive it too but I'll make do with looking and concentrating on the weather forecast for now :oops:

Not a lemon, just not had the brakes done in a while.

If you are not bothered about the calipers then sacrifice them and get new ones.

In all honesty, for what it costs for brand new ones these days, it seems to be cheaper than SS pistons and seals.

Get some decent stud extractors too and chop chop drill drill and rebuild with new bolts and don't forget to get new locking tab washers for your hub nuts.
Click to expand...

That's one beauty of these motors, parts are dirt cheap and plentiful, if the stud extractor fails then the hand grinder will come out and new calipers on order ;)
 
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