Not ideal apparently and it's permanently live, the seat adjuster catches the door card sometimes and moves on its own! :)

MIne don't touch the door, close but a couple of mm spare. I have to have the door open to move it though. I shoved a relay onto each seat and wired the heating and the movement all to the same switch that also is attached to the ignition. Works well.
 
MIne don't touch the door, close but a couple of mm spare. I have to have the door open to move it though. I shoved a relay onto each seat and wired the heating and the movement all to the same switch that also is attached to the ignition. Works well.

My buttons are clear by about half a gnats pube. Mine are all round stubby like buttons so think possibly the actual buttons are lost. Another reason I wired everything to a switch, just in case the buttons did foul the door
 
i don't have much wire showing for what I think is the heated wires, you got a pic of yours


Here you go Mate try and expose some wire and use this guide below to work out which is which. One thing I did suss out with these seats is that they go so far forward that you don't need to remove the seat base to access the boxes beneath for battery and jack etc.


Seat Motion
Grey - +12v
Purple - Ground

Lumbar
Yellow w/red stripe - +12v
White w/yellow stripe Ground

Seat Heater
Blue - +12v

Passenger seat
Seat heater
Red +12v
Black - ground

Heated seats work, 12v is 12v, just have a on off switch in line so they do not burn out
 
Here you go Mate try and expose some wire and use this guide below to work out which is which. One thing I did suss out with these seats is that they go so far forward that you don't need to remove the seat base to access the boxes beneath for battery and jack etc.


Seat Motion
Grey - +12v
Purple - Ground

Lumbar
Yellow w/red stripe - +12v
White w/yellow stripe Ground

Seat Heater
Blue - +12v

Passenger seat
Seat heater
Red +12v
Black - ground

Heated seats work, 12v is 12v, just have a on off switch in line so they do not burn out

Really? I've not actually tried. I took delivery of a new hankook battery yesterday (preparing for snowmageddon) so will try that method today.

:)
 
Actually, thinking about it, I mounted the rx8 rails onto the original seat rails. So, in theory I have double the length to play with. I think I can probably get to the battery without removing the seat too. I'll give it a go in a bit
 
Really? I've not actually tried. I took delivery of a new hankook battery yesterday (preparing for snowmageddon) so will try that method today.
Although you can get to the terminals perfectly well I'm not sure there's enough gap to remove the batt though.
 
I wired mine into the fag lighter in the dash. blew the 7.5amp fuse after 1 use so switched it out to a 20 amp. been great ever since.
Had to make shift all new brackets though. think only 1 original hole on both chairs fit the original landy holes ha
 
So, no relays or any of that crap? Have a look at my thread for fitting, I managed to line up the holes onto the Mud seat rail extensions and only had to drill the rear holes in . I'm well chuffed with them.
 
Oh at last somebody can explain in a few words what a relay does. Well relays can sod off then and I'll piggy back my seat switches onto an ignition live.
 
Oh at last somebody can explain in a few words what a relay does. Well relays can sod off then and I'll piggy back my seat switches onto an ignition live.
Well relays stop you setting your car on fire ( if you wire it all in correctly)!
Is that few enough words?
 
No, actually. There's a few people on here that have wired them direct ignition with a decent inline fuse and they haven't burst into flames yet.
 

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