Badger

Well-Known Member

• Apr 25, 2011

• #1

I've spent the past week toodling about without a roof on due to the luxurious weather, however the doors look abit odd without the roof on, so what doors do peeps use which have no upper part?

I'm assuming they're military or series style doors at a guess? Will be ordering a canvas truck cab soon so would like to replace the existing doors before then

Ta muchly

Badger

 

Pikey

Dummy Ejection Facilitator..

• Apr 25, 2011

• #2

My old 90 had military doors on it 2 nuts hold the top half on. . if your going for canvas tilt think about getting a fold down windscreen as well. Looks awesome.

 

Badger

Well-Known Member

• Apr 25, 2011

• #3

I got a fold down already, so sorted there

As for the doors, they seem to be elusive to the usual bay search, i'll have a look at whether i can cut and weld the ones i have now and make a bracket to hold the 2 parts together, as well as the 2 mounting bars at the rear for materials to bolt to, i can see a weekend of welding happening

 

L

Litch

Well-Known Member

• Apr 25, 2011

• #4

Just use Series doors but make sure you fit the later (anti-burst) locking mechanism, no need for any welding or fabrication. You can use 90/110 alloy clad door-tops if you want but they are a lot more expensive and apart from the glass being different (they both slide) the do exactly the same job.
Don't forget that even with the door-tops off you will still have the framework in position, you will have to unbolt it to give you a completely open side and/or to allow you to fold the windscreen down.

 

instantsquid

New Member

• Apr 25, 2011

• #5

Series doors. If your existing doors are half-decent they'll sell well too.

 

Pikey

Dummy Ejection Facilitator..

• Apr 25, 2011

• #6

Litch said:

Just use Series doors but make sure you fit the later (anti-burst) locking mechanism, no need for any welding or fabrication. You can use 90/110 alloy clad door-tops if you want but they are a lot more expensive and apart from the glass being different (they both slide) the do exactly the same job.
Don't forget that even with the door-tops off you will still have the framework in position, you will have to unbolt it to give you a completely open side and/or to allow you to fold the windscreen down.

Click to expand...

What framework?? surely once roof and door tops are off there's nothing else to remove??

 

Badger

Well-Known Member

• Apr 25, 2011

• #7

You may be a tad confused Litch, the roof is completely off atm. I would upload a wee piccy but no internet other than me phone atm and it's a tad annoying uploading on this thing

Series doors it is then, i may purchase them before selling my own ones unlike i did with the roof :lol: although still looking at cutting mine up to save some pennies

 

big si

Well-Known Member

• Apr 25, 2011

• #8

I put series three doors on mine and just changed the striking plate, theres a bloke on ebay selling brand new ones with windows and all fittings for 200 quid a piece which is alot more than a good second hand set will cost but then you know theres no rust in the tops ,if you can try and get aluminium tops and your on a winner .

 

big si

Well-Known Member

• Apr 25, 2011

• #9

also if yours are in good nick you may recover most of the new cost selling them on ,I couldn't believe the prices for tatty doors on ebay.

 

Boris113

Well-Known Member

• Apr 25, 2011

• #10

I have early 110 doors with the alloy tops fitted to my soft top. come summer i whip the door tops off, remove the rear tilt frame and fit a bikini top. sometimes take off all the roof and bolt a length of tube between the windscreen top and roll bar to stop the windscreen shaking too much. would stick up some piccys but they are too big and wont upload

 

Badger

Well-Known Member

• Apr 25, 2011

• #11

Found a few sellers of new bottom door sections and top sections, works out about £70 for the bottoms posted and £40 for the tops posted ( non ally versions ) so all in all about £220 for new doors, i reackon if i can get £100 for mine i could be onto a winner.

Did you make a bar up to go between the windscreen and rollbar Boris? i guess anything will do as it's not structural ( no.....leave the 2x2 timber alone Badger...:lol::lol: )

Firstly though, gotta get a cover for the truck bay as we're bound to get some rain soon

 

Trewey

Cockernee, Pasty munchin bastid.

• Apr 25, 2011

• #12

 

Badger

Well-Known Member

• Apr 25, 2011

• #13

Love the way ya left the visors on Trewy :lol:

Looking at them piccies, i wonder if there is a mount to keep the windshield horizontal....guess i could make summat up

 

L

Litch

Well-Known Member

• Apr 25, 2011

• #14

"Will be ordering a canvas truck cab soon"
"You may be a tad confused Litch, the roof is completely off atm. I would upload a wee piccy but no internet other than me phone atm and it's a tad annoying uploading on this thing "


Yes, roof is off but being replaced with canvas truck-cab.
Which canvas are you buying, does it not use the normal soft-top framework around the doors for support? The brackets below run across the top of the doors and then there are the vertical ones that fit behind. Is your canvas truck-cab completely self-supporting and if so, how?

 

Last edited: Apr 25, 2011

Badger

Well-Known Member

• Apr 25, 2011

• #15

talking at cross purposes here Litch I thought your comment was directed at the current set up and dropping the windscreen, ie i have no supports above the doors at present

The kit i've seen which isn't an Exmoormoneyforus Trim, has everything including the door brackets and a tonneau cover for the rear, works out just under £500 from allwheeltrimltd.

 

Boris113

Well-Known Member

• Apr 25, 2011

• #16

PaulWilde said:

Did you make a bar up to go between the windscreen and rollbar Boris? i guess anything will do as it's not structural ( no.....leave the 2x2 timber alone Badger...:lol::lol:

Click to expand...

I used a bit of metal tube I cut out of a bent 5 bar steel gate, hammered the ends flat then drilled a hole in each flat. At the front they bolt to the same holes that the soft top gutters are secured to the windscreen frame with. at the rear they use 2 of the tabs on my ex-mod roll bar that part of the tilt frame attaches to.

They certainly aren't a roll cage but plenty strong enough for me to swing/lean on when out lamping and by stopping the windscreen vibrating, prevent a really annoying noise from the bulkhead seal.

I used to fold the screen down and wear ski goggles but my snorkel stops that now

once i get my clutch done this week i'll pull all the roof off and take some piccys if you like?

 

L

Litch

Well-Known Member

• Apr 25, 2011

• #17

Had soft-top LR's for over 16-years now and only removed the top completely 2-3 times (and one of them was to allow a life-size model of the grim-reaper to stand up in the back!).
I removed the hardtop on my old S111 a few times back in the 1980's but since going over to soft-top (101 & 90) I find it far nicer to roll the back & sides up and enjoy the fresh-air without having the sun beating down on me, cooler in the shade as well.

 

Badger

Well-Known Member

• Apr 25, 2011

• #18

Boris: If it's not too much trouble i'd enjoy looking a the pics mate

Litch: tbh it's a novelty atm having no roof, but given it now takes 10 minutes or less to remove it and with the sun out, who can blame me I am looking at some kind of quick release bolts for the rear of the truck cab to reduce the time of removal even more, but it's getting heavy lifting it all off on my own and chucking it in the garage when i go out in the morning so i'll prolly leave it be till the canvas arrives