Chrisjb330
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Chrisjb330
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Chrisjb330
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Pawl
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Brake pedal creep to the floor is not a standard feature of any good brake system - it's a symptom of leaking mastercylinder seals in both brake circuits.
Its often tolerable though because its only significant when you press the brake pedal lightly & hold for a long time (ie not normal braking). If you hit the pedal hard - as in an emergency, the higher pressure often causes the seals to seal properly until you release the pedal.
Diesel creep is the effect mentioned in the other forum post where if you put your foot on the brake pedal it moves down a fair way (BUT NOT to the floor) immediately after you start the engine when its been off for a while AND you have leaking Servo Non Return Valve. It's caused by the the servo brake assistance only slowly building up as the disel engine vacuum pump slowly builds up vacuum IF it's leaked away. The vacuum pump can often take many seconds to build up to max. vacuum / assistance.
The same effect is also present on some petrol engines nowadays - as some also have vacuum pumps.
Older petrol engined cars don't noticably have the problem because the vacuum level is built up very fast to a lower level than a vac pump (as soon as the engine is running at idle there will be good vacuum)
Its often tolerable though because its only significant when you press the brake pedal lightly & hold for a long time (ie not normal braking). If you hit the pedal hard - as in an emergency, the higher pressure often causes the seals to seal properly until you release the pedal.
Diesel creep is the effect mentioned in the other forum post where if you put your foot on the brake pedal it moves down a fair way (BUT NOT to the floor) immediately after you start the engine when its been off for a while AND you have leaking Servo Non Return Valve. It's caused by the the servo brake assistance only slowly building up as the disel engine vacuum pump slowly builds up vacuum IF it's leaked away. The vacuum pump can often take many seconds to build up to max. vacuum / assistance.
The same effect is also present on some petrol engines nowadays - as some also have vacuum pumps.
Older petrol engined cars don't noticably have the problem because the vacuum level is built up very fast to a lower level than a vac pump (as soon as the engine is running at idle there will be good vacuum)
If one side has bedded in quicker then you may still have an issue, how many mile have you done?
Chrisjb330
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Ive been using red rubber grease for over 30 years, rebuilding callipers, no issues at all. Ask your local MOT shop to do a brake test on your car. It will highlight how much the braking system is out of balance.
Here is a comprehensive list of RRG properties:
- Fully compatible with natural and synthetic rubbers
- Compatible with brake fluids and some hydraulic oils.
- Rust inhibitor (protects from oxidation and rust).
- RRG is water resistant.
- Hight temperarure. The grease can be used in applications with temperatures up to 210-230F. It will not melt and will not contaminate brake pads.
- Petrol resistant. Although it will get contaminated in contact with gasoline, but still it will protect rubber parts from it.
- High chemical and structural(mechanical) stability.
- High resistance against water washing (will stay on after a rain, or car wash).
- Has high wear protecting quality.
http://www.redrubbergrease.com/tips-how-to-brake-caliper-failure-repair-with-rebuild-kit.html
Chrisjb330
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Chrisjb330
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I forgot about the brake tester.... 
I mentioned it because I just had it done on the wifes car...
What you do depends on how deep are your pockets. If youve replaced the discs, pads and callipers, New thing would be a worn suspension or steering component. What condition are the springs or shocks ? Im just in the process of replacing the bushes in my lads Defender, as the car is all over the road. Found two knackered bushes on the N/S suspension arm already, and thats just the first thing I started on.
I mentioned it because I just had it done on the wifes car...What you do depends on how deep are your pockets. If youve replaced the discs, pads and callipers, New thing would be a worn suspension or steering component. What condition are the springs or shocks ? Im just in the process of replacing the bushes in my lads Defender, as the car is all over the road. Found two knackered bushes on the N/S suspension arm already, and thats just the first thing I started on.
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Chrisjb330
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Chrisjb330
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Chrisjb330
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Chrisjb330
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Chrisjb330
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174644380875?hash=item28a99dc4cb:g:8dMAAOSwbgNgL8aj
This set would help. Nice if it was a bit cheaper. Tests the brake line pressure in the line, via the calliper bleeders.
This set would help. Nice if it was a bit cheaper. Tests the brake line pressure in the line, via the calliper bleeders.
Chrisjb330
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