Discodevon

Well-Known Member
Hi everyone the track rod arm on my defender has a split in the rubber bits each end, is it a big job to replace this arm which goes from one side to the other? I’m thinking I’ll just get my mechanic to do it as the mot is coming up in a couple of months what do you guys recon?
 
It's not a big job to replace the arm, or the track rod ends - they just screw/clamp on. But the rubbers themselves can be replaced if the track rod ends are in good nick, only few pence in parts but a little bit fiddly.
 
If you are not used to mechanics once the nut on the track rod end has been removed the hardest part is getti g it out of the steering arm as it is on a taperand will be very tight. Do not hit the end of the pin where the thread is,a good whack on the steering arm side will often release the joint or a ball joint spitter tool can be used. Well worth learning to do these basic jobes to save much in garage fees. Good how to videos on the you tube can help.
 
Stick new track rod ends in, dont mess with new boots, if they are split water and crap will have gotten in there especially this time of year.
Cant see any mech charging more than an hours labour including a cup of tea.
 
Look at some of the Britanica Restorations and Trailer fitters toolbox videos and decide if you want to take on the task.

I am no mechanic and I have had the track rod of on a number of occasions including changing the rubber boot. I found the fiddley bit is putting the boot retaining clip back on.

I have not changed the track rod ends but would be cautious of doing it as I wouldn't want to mess with the tracking - but as I said, I ain't no mechanic so perhaps being over cautious.
 
Careful measurement of the rod and old ends before removal. Measure from the centre point of the joint on the reverse of the pin then put in new joints to the same. New end clamps handy as often corroded. If very corroded less trouble to fit new rod as well, about £ 35 to £40 standard rod and ends.
 
Also, if the track rod ball joints are rusted into the track rod itself, they can be loosened by putting the rod on something solid and hammering it all round where the ball joint screws in. This helps break the seal formed by the rust and usually enables you to screw them out.

I seem to remember last time I did mine I had to take the anti-roll bar out to be able to get the track rod out. Or I might be thinking about the exhaust pipe.

It's not a difficult job to do at home with a few spanners and hammers. Land Rover tolerances are somewhat relaxed so it's perfectly driveable with tracking adjusted by tape measure, certainly enough to get you to a garage with a tracking machine. But that's only if you're very particular about it. I've done the best part of 140,000 miles on tape measure adjusted tracking and it's been fine. A very small amount of movement of the track rod can make a big difference at the perimeter of the tyres. Around a quarter of a turn on the track rod can give you around 4-6mm more toe out or toe in depending on which way you're turning it. Even so, it's not hard to get it pretty close. I prefer a tiny bit of toe in myself.
 
Guys thanks very much, I’ll just get my mechanic to do it, glad to hear it won’t be mega money after all.. On another note my landy is 2005 I would have still been at school when it was made and I’m well into my 30’s now lol!
 
Also, if the track rod ball joints are rusted into the track rod itself, they can be loosened by putting the rod on something solid and hammering it all round where the ball joint screws in. This helps break the seal formed by the rust and usually enables you to screw them out.

I seem to remember last time I did mine I had to take the anti-roll bar out to be able to get the track rod out. Or I might be thinking about the exhaust pipe.

It's not a difficult job to do at home with a few spanners and hammers. Land Rover tolerances are somewhat relaxed so it's perfectly driveable with tracking adjusted by tape measure, certainly enough to get you to a garage with a tracking machine. But that's only if you're very particular about it. I've done the best part of 140,000 miles on tape measure adjusted tracking and it's been fine. A very small amount of movement of the track rod can make a big difference at the perimeter of the tyres. Around a quarter of a turn on the track rod can give you around 4-6mm more toe out or toe in depending on which way you're turning it. Even so, it's not hard to get it pretty close. I prefer a tiny bit of toe in myself.


Track rod behind axle = toe in, track rod in front of axle = toe out

I use the hammer trick all the time at work.
Also measure centre of back of joint to end of rod and set new one the same, others count the turns and you dont want to see the tyre wear issues their amazing accuracy causes!
 
[QUOTE="lynall
Also measure centre of back of joint to end of rod and set new one the same, others count the turns and you dont want to see the tyre wear issues their amazing accuracy causes![/QUOTE]

But I counted the turns exactly the same they say in confusion looking at the bald edges on their tyres after six months of poor steering.
 
[QUOTE="lynall
Also measure centre of back of joint to end of rod and set new one the same, others count the turns and you dont want to see the tyre wear issues their amazing accuracy causes!

But I counted the turns exactly the same they say in confusion looking at the bald edges on their tyres after six months of poor steering.[/QUOTE]

I have tried to explain to them many times, now I just smile and walk away.

Another guy use to beat track rod out then set the new joints so they went into the steering arm holes centrally, he could not get his head around the fact it could not work!
 

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