Funonthefarm
Active Member
Take that as you don’t know!
Funonthefarm
Active Member
I wish that grown up would turn up quickly... I’m getting scared!!!Quite right ... that'll be two of us then ...
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Starter relay C0151, if it's immobilised there will be no earth in pin 6 of the socket
Funonthefarm
Active Member
That’s exactly it! I spend some time with the multimeter and found that the wire to the “imoboliser” that I have no fob or code for as it’s a basic model, isn’t live!!! I’m guessing this is the route of the problem.
1. Any idea how it has imobolised itself?
2. How to fix it/ bypass it?
bloody thing!!!
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
The immobiliser wire is not live, it's cutting earth to pin 6 as i already said, if you have earth on pin 6 but no live to pin 4(white/red wire) while ignition is turned to crank the problem is on the ignition switchs output cos that's direct to the relay, if no earth on pin 6 splice in with a good earth in that wire
Funonthefarm
Active Member
This is great thank you, so the red/ white from the ignition crank does go live when turned. But obviously doesn’t active the relay.
I did jump from the live to the starter, effectively by passing the relay, which did make the engine crank but not start... so I presumed the wire from the immobiliser had to go live...
so my worry now is if I ground the wire out, that the engine still will not fire. So maybe something inside the alarm Ecu, stoping Signals to the engine Ecu? Any thoughts?
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Yes, if it's immobilised the engine ECU doesnt open the injectors, you need to plug in a dedicated tester to see if it's immobilised or not cos it can be a crank signal failure too
Funonthefarm
Active Member
Would the crank failure cause the starter relay not to work also? Or is this separate?
many recommendations on testing software?
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
If the earth to starter relay is cut by the alarm ECU then the engine ECU's security signal is cut too that means it's immobilised, it has nothing to do with crank signal but as this thread started then you said that who knows what plugs were misconnected i dont know what's there in reality.... are all the fuses OK?
Funonthefarm
Active Member
All fuses are checked and are fine. The miss connection was the 2 black plugs coming from the bulkhead into the main engine bay.
Everything seems to be correct now, fuel pump powered etc... just nothing on the crank as discribed. Which lead me to trace back from the starter and discover the issue with the relay.
I wasn’t aware that my Landy had a immobiliser...!!! So I guess solving the ground issue on the relay isn’t going to solve it if the Ecu has been immobilised also.
what software / read is the best for getting into this? I read the imoboliser can be switched off permanently?
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
yes it can be disabled with nanocom or hawkeye unlocked for 10AS system but not as long as it's already immobilised, you have to remobilise it with EKA code first, read "Engine immobilisation override" in the owner's manual... btw if you unlock with the fob and it works this should remobilise it
Funonthefarm
Active Member
oh dear! So the Landy doesnt have a fob, just 2 plain keys... hence I never knew if had a imoboliser. And no eka code. I read up abou the eka procedure, key and doors etc... but don’t have one to try it!!!
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Funonthefarm
Active Member
Can definitely appreciated why the military refused to take the td5
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
If that's how it was from factory without fob and it ran before this issue means it wasnt fitted with immobiliser, there are more versions and would be good to know exactly what modell you have. But if it didnt ever have fob then this problem is not with the immobiliser
- did you purge well the fuel delivery system?
- is the battery strong enough ?
- eventually did you try to bump start it?
Funonthefarm
Active Member
- I did the pedal prime procedure several times
- battery reading strong and charged also
- bump: not yet as it’s in the shed...
But there definitely is no power going through to the starter relay. Tested continuity and all terminals and it really points to immobiliser kicking in.... it’s a truck cab 90, no electric windows or locks, no abs no air con...
I jumped the relay earlier to check the starter worked, and it cranked... but didn’t start.
ps really appreciating the help! Thanks
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
If it doesnt have a fob it doesnt have immobiliser... period. You have to check what's missing at the relay when you turn ignition on, was the ignition on 2 when you jumped the starter ?
Funonthefarm
Active Member
Yes it was.
When the ignition is at 2 - I’m going to say “normal” lights, engine light on then off, glow plugs on then off, oil and battery.
When turn to 3/ crank - nothing...
mulitlmemter says when at 3/crank, ignition to relay goes to 12v, but doesn’t activate the relay...
Hence thinking immobiliser, as wiring diagram says this wire runs to the green “alarm Ecu”
By passing the ignition and jumping the relay from the back gets crank - but no start... (which leads me to think as you mentioned, main Ecu stopping injectors...)
It’s got me scratching my head I’m nearly bald!!!
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Might be some coincidence as it was a quite big job done on it, i say again, if your's doesnt have a fob nor central locking it has no immobiliser so the problem is something else, connect a ground to pin 6 of the starter relay then crank it with the ignition and see if you get any diesel smell on exhaust... a crank sensor signal failure will also not let the ECU open the injectors
