Finally getting around to replacing my flywheel this week on my 110. Going to go with the method of chucking an engine crane through the side to hold the gearbox and working through the floor.

Anyone ever tried this who can give me some tips?

Also some tips on taking the seat box out as I can't find any youtube vids to help me (usual course of action).

dunning123 said:

Finally getting around to replacing my flywheel this week on my 110. Going to go with the method of chucking an engine crane through the side to hold the gearbox and working through the floor.

Anyone ever tried this who can give me some tips?

Also some tips on taking the seat box out as I can't find any youtube vids to help me (usual course of action).

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many many times, you dont remove seat box just the tunnel ans center seat panel and hang a chain through there drop box on the floor and pull it to one side

jamesmartin said:

many many times, you dont remove seat box just the tunnel ans center seat panel and hang a chain through there drop box on the floor and pull it to one side

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perfect thanks! Did you replace flywheel bolts? Also did you replace spigot bearing? If so what is the best way to get it out? Pack it with grease and bang it out?

dunning123 said:

perfect thanks! Did you replace flywheel bolts? Also did you replace spigot bearing? If so what is the best way to get it out? Pack it with grease and bang it out?

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ive used new and reused old quite a few times just use some good loctite thread locker, i replace spigot bushes as a matter of course i split them with a chisel, fit new and check for size using a spare input shaft some need reaming which amini flap wheel on a drill does very well

Did mine last Christmas. As I was working in the road outside my house I didn't use an engine crane as it would have stuck out into the traffic, so used a transmission jack instead. As James says, if you take out the transmission tunnel, floor panels and centre panel on the seat box there's plenty of room to work. I tried using a dollop of grease and a suitable sized drift to remove the bush with the hydraulic technique but it wasn't going to shift like that, so I scored it with a burr on a drill to weaken it and then broke it up with a chisel. I soaked the new one in oil before fitting, which provoked some impassioned debate among Landyzone regulars. I put a new release bearing on while I was busy too, even though the old one seemed as good as new. The new flywheel was a very tight fit on the boss of the crankshaft but I managed to pull it on with a couple of the old bolts and then put new ones in all round. On the old DMF the mechanism had become very loose, but the new one felt much tighter. This has cured groaning and moaning noises on startup and early morning gearchanges, and has resulted in less vibration. This is also a good time to fit new master and slave clutch cylinders too, as they don't last forever and new ones should be good for the next 100,000 miles or so. Fortunately, everything slid together fairly easily on reassembly. I had initially thought I could put some bits of 10mm threaded rod in the bolt holes to guide the belhousing beck onto the engine but this doesn't work as the bellhousing has to be dropped as soon as it parts from the engine to enable the bellhousing to clear the bulkhead. I just got a few of the longer bolts engages and used them to pull it all together evenly, and then once I ran out of thread with the long bolts I swapped them for the short ones, and put the long ones back in the holes where they were supposed to go. Afterwards, I found that the clutch needed adjusting a few times,as the bite point kept getting nearer and nearer the floor, and then eventually it wouldn't change gear at all. I was wondering if something was wrong with it, but eventually it settled down. So you might want to set the bite point high to begin with in case it migrates downwards like mine did.

The bolts that fasten the bell-housing are definitely M10 then? Iwant to change the clutch on our TD5 disco sometime. Are they different lengths? Did you grease the splines on the input shaft and if so what grease is needed? Hope you don't mind me asking.

It's nearly a year since I did it, but from recollection they were M10, yes you get long bolts and short bolts, depending on how much casting they have to go through. If you really want to be fussy you can get a bit of cardboard and push them through in a circular pattern corresponding to where they go around the bellhousing, so as to keep them in order. Apart from oiling the bush I didn't put any additional lubrication anywhere. Oh, and a bit of grease where the clutch arm goes on its pivot and where the clutch push rod goes on the arm. There didn't seem to have been any grease put on the splines in the factory, and they were still good after around 100,000 miles. There are some pictures of my efforts at https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/browns-clutch-rebuild-thread.324126/page-1 I see there are a couple of things I remembered wrongly. I used threaded rod rather than the old bolts to force the new DMF on, and I did use threaded rod to help align the gearbox - I put the rod in after the gearbox was positioned just to help line it up, and then pulled the components together by putting the long bolts in the short bolt holes and winding them in until they bottomed and then putting the short bolts in.

never pull a box up to the engine only tighten any bolts once its slid up,bell housing is held by 6 shorter bolts and 2 long ones were they fit is obvious there are 2 bolts just below head the rest on the underside,theres also a small 6mm bolt holding the engine plate to box on passenger side of engine plus the starter bolts , unplug the oil pressure sensor behind the turbo and pull cps from drivers top side of bell housing

jamesmartin said:

never pull a box up to the engine only tighten any bolts once its slid up,bell housing is held by 6 shorter bolts and 2 long ones were they fit is obvious there are 2 bolts just below head the rest on the underside,theres also a small 6mm bolt holding the engine plate to box on passenger side of engine plus the starter bolts , unplug the oil pressure sensor behind the turbo and pull cps from drivers top side of bell housing

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Yes I know, as I said at the time I wasn't forcing it together, but using bolts allowed me to keep it straight, keeping the gap even all the way round so as to avoid anything binding. I saw the results of too much force once on a friend's Vauxhall Viva in my zero-budget motoring days. He had wound the bolts in regardless with the result that the input shaft had bound badly in the bush and jammed, making it impossible to disengage the drive.

Brown said:

Yes I know, as I said at the time I wasn't forcing it together, but using bolts allowed me to keep it straight, keeping the gap even all the way round so as to avoid anything binding. I saw the results of too much force once on a friend's Vauxhall Viva in my zero-budget motoring days. He had wound the bolts in regardless with the result that the input shaft had bound badly in the bush and jammed, making it impossible to disengage the drive.

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it wasnt a criticism i just didnt want anyone to get the wrong idea that its ok to pull a box up

I think the key thing is not to force it. I've found with other projects that if the components are free-swinging on a crane or on transmission jacks it is easy to get them misaligned, and then the clutch plate gets out of line with the hole in the crank/flywheel and you have to start again. So that's why I like bolts or rods.

Brown said:

I think the key thing is not to force it. I've found with other projects that if the components are free-swinging on a crane or on transmission jacks it is easy to get them misaligned, and then the clutch plate gets out of line with the hole in the crank/flywheel and you have to start again. So that's why I like bolts or rods.

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if youve got it suspended or supported you align it and adjust that by hand and so it will push it up fully ,bolts fitted prior often stop you aligning it it properly increasing the risk of damage to the clutch or spigot bush etc especially with the td5

Ha ha - I've not had much luck with doing this sort of thing freehand in the past. There are some things I prefer to do freehand, like sharpening drills, but I need a bit of tramlining with heavy components. James, you live in a world where physical objects behave themselves and are much more disciplined than any I've encountered!

Brown said:

Ha ha - I've not had much luck with doing this sort of thing freehand in the past. There are some things I prefer to do freehand, like sharpening drills, but I need a bit of tramlining with heavy components. James, you live in a world where physical objects behave themselves and are much more disciplined than any I've encountered!

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if its not aligned it wont slid up it needs cajoling which is the risk, if its aligned it slides up easily, you adjust the support on the transmission so that it can be handled, i fit these regularly and have encountered every issue and its solution and the risks, if its supported properly on an engine crane its an easy job, diff lock on or hand brake adjusted up so you can turn front flange to turn input shaft

I have bought a used engine crane and a leveller. I was hoping to match the angle of the bellhousing and the engine by using the leveller and then sliding the box onto a couple of threaded bolts. Are you saying that the threaded bolts will impede alignment?

brianconwy said:

I have bought a used engine crane and a leveller. I was hoping to match the angle of the bellhousing and the engine by using the leveller and then sliding the box onto a couple of threaded bolts. Are you saying that the threaded bolts will impede alignment?

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its best to balance the box and slide it up with no guides ,having the engine crane slightly forward so the box wants to go forward helps,support engine with a jack the adjust box to fit, the top 2 bolts secure a steel water pipe the tabs cab be bent up to aid fitting,you really should have the box slide upto the engine before fitting any bolts and never pull it up using them, when its aligned it will slide up if you need to force it it isnt and your running a risk of causing a problem
the drivers side stud of the top 2 securing t/box to g/box is a good place to support box so its horizontal and chain but makes box front heavy so another chain etc forwards helps that

Thanks. I am hoping to have a go in a couple of weeks - weather permitting.