HYBRIDNI

Active Member
Chaps heres one for you guys that know a bit about metal...

Defender pick up roof in great nick but a bit has 'popped inwards'. When I try to pop it back out a bit beside it pops inwards and vice versa.

Anybody had this issue with their roof and if so is there a way to fix it? Does this mean the metal has stretched as such?

Be a real shame if it cant be corrected as its a nice clean roof apart from this.
 
Yeah was wondering if touch of heat would help or am I talking nonsense? Thing is...its not dented as such - just a bit popped/sagging inwards and when you pop it back out bit beside it pops/sags inwards.

Yeah Mick - thats an idea but would like to see if its possible to shrink first - so many other things to do - was just hoping there was a known fix for this sort of thing so wouldnt have to start modifying. Can get another truck cab locally for decent money. But wanted to see if could salvage this one first as its very tidy and didnt cost too much. Just didnt spot this until got it home which is annoying.
 
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Job for a "shrinking hammer" if you fancy a go yourself or can find someone who has one
 
Ooooh that sounds like it more involved than I wanted!

Any idea how it would have stretched when its not dented?
 
I would really suggest not going down the heating path unless you have practiced or done it before. I tried removing a dent like this before from the tail of the vehicle and it ended up a disaster. Aluminium can be a pain to work with. I would suggest maybe have a panel beater comment on it.
 
as previously mentioned it has stretched. This is quite an easy thing to sort if you have the right panel beating tools. I got given a full set by my father in law last year and all those times struggling to remove dents from straight panels suddenly transformed into a pleasurable job!
 
So it seems you either buy a set of panel beating tools, look on youtube for demos, and hope you can use them, or go to a panel beater, get him to do it for you. He might well do it while-you-wait, and you can get a free lesson thrown in for the future.
 
So it seems you either buy a set of panel beating tools, look on youtube for demos, and hope you can use them, or go to a panel beater, get him to do it for you. He might well do it while-you-wait, and you can get a free lesson thrown in for the future.


Yeah it seems. Panel beaters I've used here for other bits tend to charge a LOT. This combined with lack of time and the fact I wanted to get it on over the holidays...I think I will buy another Ive been offered that I know is mint for sure and think I will sell this one off cheaply to somebody who has the time or know how to do it. Its a nice cab - just wasnt looking for more work myself right now and am on a very tight timeline to get some things done.

But look, thanks for the help and advice chaps. Was worth asking and at least I know now.
 
Well the good cab I was after has been sold with the vehicle. Owner was converting to hardtop for sale but sold quicker than he thought and as is.

Looked at a few other truck cabs today but none were really waht you would call straight....not as straight as I want anyway.

So looks like this one (the cheapest) is the best of a bad bunch.

Phoned around today and managed to get speaking to few oanel beaters. One said couldnt be done as aluminium couldnt be shrunk????

Another could do it but would have to leave it with them for a few weeks and the quote was more than the truck cab cost to buy.

Last fella was more local so brought it to him. Reckoned he could do it but again eye watering quote.

Quite surprised at the cost to be honest.

Might just have to put up with wonky roof.
 
Get yourself a slapstick and dolly and practice on an old panel. The roof panel may be buckled? Bolting it down so all sides are parallel may sort it out.
 
If not too big a dent, and if hidden by headlining I would fill it. I had a good sized dent in my rear nearside wing panel caused by reversing into a short concrete bollard. A tinsmith working for Land Rover fixed it for me and now you can't tell it was ever damaged. He shrunk the area using a device rather like a square electric iron. I did not see him doing it, but he told me that you have to heat the metal and then throw cold water onto it. I remember once boiling an egg and I let the aluminium pan boil dry till the egg started to scorch so I put it under a cold running tap and the pan virtually folded as the metal had gone very soft. If you have a spare piece of ally why not make a dent in it, heat it up and see if you can tap it out while the metal is still soft.
 
Guys think we are getting crossed wires here. It isn't actually dented - thats were I am baffled.

Picture the 4 'strips' across roof...you follow me?

In between 2 the roof is kind of popped/sagging inwards. If I put my hand underneath to push it upwards/out the section beside it (in between 2 strips) pops inwards and vice versa.

Yes...will take a pic in few minutes and you guys can have a gander.

Took the blowtorch to it for few secs today after watching some youtube videos and then thought nope...I don't know what I am doing at all so just leave it as is for now.
 
TRUCKCABROOF_zpsf3c26935.jpg
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It would be interesting to see if any of you Defender owners are familiar with this sight.
 
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personally i would pop it the way you want it and then add a bit of heat till the metal has shrunk enough to hold it, its the way we do it at work if needed

Thanks
Chris
 
personally i would pop it the way you want it and then add a bit of heat till the metal has shrunk enough to hold it, its the way we do it at work if needed

Thanks
Chris

Chris you got my attention...

Whats the method for doing so if you dont mind my asking.

No 1 section needs popped out as its really noticeable left as is. But when popped out sits almost a bit too high so if I could just get it eased down a bit I would then consider what Mick the Builder mentioned about a support strut across to stop hold no 2 section up (as wants to pop in when no 1 is popped up).

Sounds daft doesn't it but its best way I can explain it and I hope it makes sense to somebody!!!
 
can you not tigerseal something on the inside. prop it up with something till it sets and then it should hold it where it is.
 
This is as best as i could draw it without photoshop lol..



Green - Roof (Little green is roof bulges)
Blue- Wood
Black- Dent

Basically i would turn the roof over lay it on a bit of wood to get the roof flat and apply weight in the direction of the arrow to keep the shape you want.
Lightly apply heat where the dent is and along any strength lines to try and shrink the metal as there is to much which is why it flexing.

The problem with heat is it will ruin the paint both sides. This process has worked for me a few times on trains. The correct way of heat line fairing ali is to run a line of weld along side a strong back but that isn't an option here lol

If your ever get stuck go to a local fab shop and ask for advice 9/10 they will help you out mate.

Hope this makes sense or helps

Chris
 

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