Nmere

Nmere

New Member
Hi,
I'm looking for a landy (defender 200tdi) mechanic to help with oil pressure problems. I'm currently suspecting cam shaft bearing, but have gotten to the point where I want someone who knows what they're doing to take a look, and hopefully quote for repair cost..
I have searched around on the forum, and found plenty of unanswered posts and DIY recommendations, but not many other results. If anyone knows to any decent mechanics in bham that specialise in defenders, please let me know


Thanks
 
Nmere said:
Hi,
I'm looking for a landy (defender 200tdi) mechanic to help with oil pressure problems. I'm currently suspecting cam shaft bearing, but have gotten to the point where I want someone who knows what they're doing to take a look, and hopefully quote for repair cost..
I have searched around on the forum, and found plenty of unanswered posts and DIY recommendations, but not many other results. If anyone knows to any decent mechanics in bham that specialise in defenders, please let me know


Thanks
Click to expand...

What are the symptoms of the problem?
 
Low pressure at all times, much worse at hot. Talking 3-5 psi at hot idle, and 20psi at hot high revs. Low temp starts at 35-40psi on revs, and around 20psi idle, but drops quickly. I've had the sump off (no chunks, but some fine metal particles) and inspected pump, looked fine. Oil change and filters made very little difference.
I must admit that I'm fairly new to mechanics in general, and so I'm not that confident at fixing it unless it's something straight forward - and I've only got a drive to work on :confused:
 
Nmere said:
Low pressure at all times, much worse at hot. Talking 3-5 psi at hot idle, and 20psi at hot high revs. Low temp starts at 35-40psi on revs, and around 20psi idle, but drops quickly. I've had the sump off (no chunks, but some fine metal particles) and inspected pump, looked fine. Oil change and filters made very little difference.
I must admit that I'm fairly new to mechanics in general, and so I'm not that confident at fixing it unless it's something straight forward - and I've only got a drive to work on :confused:
Click to expand...

How do you know this? Plumbed in gauge, temporary gauge, guesswork?
And what kind of engine oil are you using?
And did you examine the oil pump internals, and it's pick up when you had the sump off?
 
Nmere said:
Low pressure at all times, much worse at hot. Talking 3-5 psi at hot idle, and 20psi at hot high revs. Low temp starts at 35-40psi on revs, and around 20psi idle, but drops quickly. I've had the sump off (no chunks, but some fine metal particles) and inspected pump, looked fine. Oil change and filters made very little difference.
I must admit that I'm fairly new to mechanics in general, and so I'm not that confident at fixing it unless it's something straight forward - and I've only got a drive to work on :confused:
Click to expand...

pheonix 4x4 ask for Jim 01902 892908
 
Initially used a test gauge after the low pressure light remained on at all times (also swapped the oil pressure sender), and plumbed in a perm gauge in the cab after confirming low pressure on the test gauge
Filled up a year ago with 10w40, and last month with 15w40, no change to oil pressure
Yup to both, I did change out the pressure relief spring as it seemed a little soft, and the replacement delivered was a little more rigid. Also swapped the o-ring in the pickup pipe as it appeared aged and hard. I don't have feeler gauges for exact play measurement, but the two gears had little to no play, no scoring or damage, and seemed all-round almost like new

Thanks
 
Nmere said:
Initially used a test gauge after the low pressure light remained on at all times (also swapped the oil pressure sender), and plumbed in a perm gauge in the cab after confirming low pressure on the test gauge
Filled up a year ago with 10w40, and last month with 15w40, no change to oil pressure
Yup to both, I did change out the pressure relief spring as it seemed a little soft, and the replacement delivered was a little more rigid. Also swapped the o-ring in the pickup pipe as it appeared aged and hard. I don't have feeler gauges for exact play measurement, but the two gears had little to no play, no scoring or damage, and seemed all-round almost like new

Thanks
Click to expand...

Mineral or synthetic multigrade?
And did you thoroughly check the oil pick up pipe from the pump, they are known to crack.
Worth measuring the clearances on the pump rotor.
Also, what does the engine sound like? Any knocks, rattles or other noises that might indicate a bearing failure?
 
10w40 was synthetic, and the new 15w40 was mineral. And yeah, I completely cleaned it down, and inspected it pretty closely. I'm confident that unless it was an absolutely minute fracture, I would've seen it
It's a 200tdi and I'm used to a small 1.8 mx5 nb engine, it always sounds noisy and knocking to me :D I'm not used enough to be able to tell. However, something has started squeaking recently and I've not been able to pin it down - I suspect it's somewhere in the engine, as no matter where you listen from, it sounds further in than you can see...
 
Nmere said:
10w40 was synthetic, and the new 15w40 was mineral. And yeah, I completely cleaned it down, and inspected it pretty closely. I'm confident that unless it was an absolutely minute fracture, I would've seen it
It's a 200tdi and I'm used to a small 1.8 mx5 nb engine, it always sounds noisy and knocking to me :D I'm not used enough to be able to tell. However, something has started squeaking recently and I've not been able to pin it down - I suspect it's somewhere in the engine, as no matter where you listen from, it sounds further in than you can see...
Click to expand...

Personally, I would avoid synth oils in an engine of that age and type, so I think you have done the right thing.
As you say, listening to old diesels takes experience.

I would go with @Broke Again 's recommendation, he is local, and it sounds like a good idea to get a second opinion from somebody experienced with these vehicles.
 
Thanks turboman, I'm willing to give things a try, but wary I'm out of my depth now, so it'd be nice to leave it to someone with more experience now, even if it might cost me an arm and a leg!
One thing I forgot to say, I've taken a washer out of the oil filter housing that sat on the thermostat, as there's been a few mentions of it being too restrictive, forcing oil through the cooler when hot, but that made little (1-2 psi increase @ hot ) difference - 2 weeks ago, so I'll likely put it back in at some point

Appreciate the advice :)
 
I’ve used pheonix for years on my rrs and discos honnest reliable service but he anit the quickest but makes sure it’s right he does all the work on the West Midlands safari parks and Wolverhampton. Race course land rovers
 
Nmere said:
Thanks turboman, I'm willing to give things a try, but wary I'm out of my depth now, so it'd be nice to leave it to someone with more experience now, even if it might cost me an arm and a leg!
One thing I forgot to say, I've taken a washer out of the oil filter housing that sat on the thermostat, as there's been a few mentions of it being too restrictive, forcing oil through the cooler when hot, but that made little (1-2 psi increase @ hot ) difference - 2 weeks ago, so I'll likely put it back in at some point

Appreciate the advice :)
Click to expand...
No worries.

I was going to come on to the oil filter adaptor, the pressure relief valve, and the oil cooler.
But if you are happy to consult a garage, that is probably going to be better.
Diagnosing a problem over the internet, in discussion with someone you have never met, is never going to be as easy as if you can physically examine the vehicle.

Best of luck with it! :)
 
I'll be honest. Jim at Phoenix 4x4 did a timing belt on a 300tdi some years ago, asked him to do the crank seal while he was in there. Also asked for OEM parts only.
Unfortunately, the crank seal absolutely poured out. Which I can appreciate can happen some times. What bothered me the most was his lack of interest to sort it and saying/charging for OEM parts when infact it was just aftermarket cr*p. In the end it was that much hard work to get him to sort it, I ended up learning the job and doing the job properly myself.

OEM parts used, and it sealed first time and that's with my limited knowledge.
West mids 4x4 seems a better option imho.
Hope this helps
 
Oh that’s supprising I’ve never had a issue either I’m lucky or you was unlucky. I have no connection with the garage apart from he does work for me
 
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