Hello.
I have a Series IIA where everything is super simple however a friend of mine has just shown up with a 2008 Defender with a manual switch to control the level of the headlights. Switch to 0 when driving alone and 3 when driving under load. The problem is that when switched to 0 the headlights are too high so she drives around on 2 and when towing she cannot see the road. I thought we could adjust this using the classic Lucas style adjusters on the headlamp bowls however the vertical adjuster is missing - presumably because this adjustment is now provided by the motor and switch.
So the question is how to adjust the adjuster - I guess there is a linkage between the motor and the headlights and that this might include some adjustment - or maybe I need to track down the motor - set it to 2 - slacken something and set it to 0 then tighten something.
I was amazed that I could not find any discussion of this on the web - hence this first post on Landyzone.
Thanks in advance.
Graham

Update - been out in the dark and the motors certainly works - put it on zero and on coming traffic flashes you on dip and the headlights are in the trees on main beam. Located the levelling motors - one on each side - located directly on the back of the headlamp bowls. As the problem impacts both lights it seems unlikely its a motor problem, or something that would be adjusted physically at the motor - is there an electronic trim - I doubt it.

More likely is that there is nothing wrong with the levelling motors and the back of the vehicle is down due to towing a heavy horse box.

Is it possible to set to 0, then adjust the headlamps so they are straight (using the lamp adjustment screws in the front)?

Hi - thanks.

That was my plan however although the plastic trims have openings for adjustments at the top and left of the lens, and the retaining trims that hold the sealed beam unit have the adjustment points - just like my Series II - the top adjustment screw and mechanism is missing on both lights. At first I thought this was some sort of bodged upgrade however on reflection I suspect that the manual vertical adjustment was simply not fitted on these vehicles. Does seem strange however as lights will always need some sort of alignment and simply doing it all by a preset motor would seem to make this sort of problem inevitable.

I checked out the suspension at it clearly has some not standard units on it, and it is sitting a little high, so I suspect these have been poorly fitted or have not withstood the towing of a horse box.

Do you know how to check if a Defender is level. I tried measuring from the sill to the ground but I don't think this is reliable. My guess is that if I fit a 25mm spacer under the back springs this might fit it - although it's a hell of a way to level the headlight?

I have a 2014 Defender, the levelling motor at the bottom of the headlight bowl has an adjusting screw. This must adjust the length of the rod coming out of the motor to achieve correct headlight beam alignment.

I have also noticed that one side moves very easily when you push the headlight, is this normal? or do I have a faulty motor on one side.

Perfect - makes sense.

So how do I access the motor - I can see them if I squint through a small opening under the bonnet but I didn't think it worth burrowing in from the front of the car as I imagined that once the seal beam unit was out I would be left with a solid shell - maybe up through the wheel arch - removing the plastic liner?

Both lights are rock solid - if it wobbles from side to side then I would check out the adjustment screw that sits at the 9 oclock position on the left side of the lens. This should locate in a small slot on the frame of the light and then tie this back to surround metal work.

The motors on mine are behind the light unit inside the bucket, you need to remove the headlight to get access.

Great - thanks - problem solved!