ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
wiltshire landyman
I’m back
adjust your door closers..
failing that nothing,there not the best fit direct from the manufacturer
failing that nothing,there not the best fit direct from the manufacturer
oldskool
Well-Known Member
:lol::lol:
ound:ound::5bsmilielol5::5bsmilielol5: the fact it fits the hole is a bonus mate, they didn't come from the factory with doors fitting propperly. Forget all about modern computor desighned and built cars, fenders were desighned with a thick blunt pencil and built by thick blunt handed peeps
ound:ound::5bsmilielol5::5bsmilielol5: the fact it fits the hole is a bonus mate, they didn't come from the factory with doors fitting propperly. Forget all about modern computor desighned and built cars, fenders were desighned with a thick blunt pencil and built by thick blunt handed peeps 
Station House
Well-Known Member
Good one Ratty - made me smile!
Might be worth checking that the door trim panels are fully tightened - sometimes a helping hand with a self tapping screw is needed!
Also look at the lock striker plate - there should be a plastic tubular sleeve where the lock locates. These wear and can cause the door to not shut without a good slam, and to not latch as tightly as it should - Paddocks sell reasonably priced replacements if required. Sadly the plastic part is not replaceable alone.
Might be worth checking that the door trim panels are fully tightened - sometimes a helping hand with a self tapping screw is needed!
Also look at the lock striker plate - there should be a plastic tubular sleeve where the lock locates. These wear and can cause the door to not shut without a good slam, and to not latch as tightly as it should - Paddocks sell reasonably priced replacements if required. Sadly the plastic part is not replaceable alone.
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
I've had the plastic tubes wear on mine before now anorl
. I found that wrapping insulation tape around em can buy you a bit of time while you wait for the replacement to arrive. worn hinges allowing the door to sag a touch can often cause this.One of my rear doors has some corrosion in it and it means the door card isn't sitting quite flush It's stopping the door shutting properly at the moment unless I slam it. It's just another one of those items on the 'to do' list.
GreenLove
New Member
Would you happen to know where I could find a picture showing where to add the bulkhead shims? I'm having the same problem and without replacing both driver door hinges (which have no play in them) the bulkhead adjustment seems the only choice.
The previous owner did change the bulkhead just before I bought it.
Thanks
bustersbus
Well-Known Member
Any help?
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/front-door-removal-75931.html
Loosen the hinge on the door and stick shims in (if the front is stickin' out)
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/front-door-removal-75931.html
Loosen the hinge on the door and stick shims in (if the front is stickin' out)
Badger
Well-Known Member
I took my OS door off not so long ago and the plate that sits inside the bulkhead dropped so i can only get 1 bolt in on the bottom hinge.
I now have, what is know as, ' air con ' in my landy albeit a 3/4" gap along the top of the door and it has a ' self opening ' mechanism now which is a pain when turning left...
I now have, what is know as, ' air con ' in my landy albeit a 3/4" gap along the top of the door and it has a ' self opening ' mechanism now which is a pain when turning left...
mick the builder
Well-Known Member
I to have a 3/4" gap at the top of both my doors( two part series doors). I was thinking of putting a steel or ally spacer bar in between the two halfs to try and at least to get the door to touch the rubber at the top! The only problem I can see is as the top half goes up, the angle of the windscreen will make the gap very small at that point. I will have to do something though as rain is constantly running in.
Any one else had this problem at the top of the door and tried a mod.
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