julianf

Well-Known Member
On the (300tdi) defender bulkhead, there are three bolt holes for the door check strap assembly, in a triangle.

The lower two hold the plate of the check strap (i think) whilst the upper holds the plastic cover. I think the two set screws are SH106301

Im confused though, as microcat has the plastic fascia held by a self #8 screw (AB608064L), not a bolt or set screw.

It also looks like there's some sort of spacer that it screws into, but i cant find this on any of the documents.


My problem is that the bulkhead that im stripping is in such a rusted mess that i cant really tell what the parts were!
 
The plastic cover is held on with a self tapper.
IMG_4984_zpsxvdl6hdi.jpg

IMG_5184_zpsijxfudvs.jpg

There was no spacer behind mine.
 
Thank you.

Here is my confusion -

IMG_20160818_152026_zps2bo9sh2o.jpg


You can see the three threadded holes, and then the small hole at the top where the cover (with the self tapper) connects.


So that all makes sense.... Except for that third hole?
 
That looks like the fitting I have on both my 110 and my series but both are fitted with series doors using the old fashioned check strap and the three bolts just hold the bracket for the securing pin. See below (pic from google))

2.jpg



Unfortunately I cannot comment on the newer check straps but they may use the same mounting holes.
 
I think bulkheads are so hard to get that refurbished ones must, at times, be made of parts from several of different ages and models. I was delivered a 200Tdi bulkhead. At the time I thought it was a genuine mistake, but maybe they just couldn't get a 300Tdi one at that time. We can see by dag019's post, there are 3 bolt check straps out there.
Do you have holes in the door pillars for the light switches? It doesn't look like it? It's a pain not having them.
As has been said I think most of the smaller holes are M6, a few larger ones M8. I might have accidentally tapped a few M5 ones out to M6 and just put M6 bolts in them! :)
 
While their is 3 threaded holes, the defender check straps only use two, not sure why, maybe they just carried it over from earlier models as per Dag's post.
Ref different threads, the heater box, fuel filter housing and steering column rivnuts are all M8 threads.
Check strap holes are M6.
And the two in the middle for the dash to bolt too are m5.
 
Do you have holes in the door pillars for the light switches? It doesn't look like it? It's a pain not having them.

Nope.

Its odd - on the front (engine side) there are 6 rivnuts (two pars on the outside of the wiring ducts, and one pair slightly to the right of the drivers side one)

On the one im taking off (the rusty one) there are only the outside pairs.
 
Ref different threads, the heater box, fuel filter housing and steering column rivnuts are all M8 threads.
Check strap holes are M6.
And the two in the middle for the dash to bolt too are m5.

That ties in with what ive found - nice to have confirmation - thank you.
 
Nope.

Its odd - on the front (engine side) there are 6 rivnuts (two pars on the outside of the wiring ducts, and one pair slightly to the right of the drivers side one)

On the one im taking off (the rusty one) there are only the outside pairs.
The 200Tdi has the fuel filter mounted on the inner bulkhead. I'm not too sure where you are describing, but two of them may be for the fuel filter.
 
That would make sense - im fairly sure this is a 200 bulkhead.

Two less holes to drill and tap in that case!
 
Just found this image on a google search -

attachment.php


Those are the exact holes i was on about - where the filter is. Thanks
 
Once I got mine back on the road I discovered there's a hell of a draft comes through those holes. I'm presuming that air gets compressed inside the engine bay and so gets pushed through those holes under a bit of pressure. Was getting canny winds blowing through. Fine in the summer, but would be a pain in the winter.
Remember to pop rivet your VIN plate back to the top of the bulkhead before you put the screen in. You may need to do it before you put the screen frame on, can't remember if the pop rivet gun would get past the frame.
 
Thanks for that.

Will look into what I need to do to fit door switches tomorrow (ie for internal light)

I know I should have done all this before dipping, but I always knew I'd have to drill some.more holes for other stuff.
 
Did you weld up your own bulkhead and get it dipped? The A posts love to rust.
I've used micro switches glued to the side of the footwell wall for my interior light switches. They're just under the door check strap and so are not very visible. I'm currently installing version 2 as the first mini micro switches were to delicate for the job! Just waiting for spade connectors to arrive to wire new ones up.
 
Yep, i welded it, and paid to get it dipped - twice, as i wasnt happy with the first time!
(only paid once)

I know more now than i did when i purchased the bulkhead. If i did it again, i suspect id try and get a later one (ie 300, vs 200) but this one was local, and easy.

Ill try and look at the rust lump attatched to the 110, and see how the original door switches work.
 
The switches are a push switch with a single live supply wire. They're earthed with the self tapper that screws them to the door pillar. The body of the switch fits inside the door pillar though a round hole.
I don't think there are many 300Tdi bulkheads around.
 

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