T

tysonscarr

Member
hi my door has been sagging a little bit at the top enough so it hits the car itself ever so slight so I checked the bolts and the top ones were loose tried to tighten them but the just spin so it was obvious that the j bolts were nakered so I have bought a set off eBay stainless ones with pozi drive heads I only need to do the top is I get the bolts out and can see where the j nuts Clio on to I remove them and replace in the same location soon as I put I bolt in and catch the threads it goes in fine till nearly half way then they stop dead or if I try it shears the new j but clean off
I've looked at pictures and on some of them the metal clip stays visible when in place but mine when removed where behind the outer skin is this anything to do with why the will not tighten properly they go in by hand fine when in you hand but once on the car they do not and I'm pretty sure there not cross threading and help as I now have a door that only has a bottom catch
Sorry for the long story
 
tysonscarr said:
hi my door has been sagging a little bit at the top enough so it hits the car itself ever so slight so I checked the bolts and the top ones were loose tried to tighten them but the just spin so it was obvious that the j bolts were nakered so I have bought a set off eBay stainless ones with pozi drive heads I only need to do the top is I get the bolts out and can see where the j nuts Clio on to I remove them and replace in the same location soon as I put I bolt in and catch the threads it goes in fine till nearly half way then they stop dead or if I try it shears the new j but clean off
I've looked at pictures and on some of them the metal clip stays visible when in place but mine when removed where behind the outer skin is this anything to do with why the will not tighten properly they go in by hand fine when in you hand but once on the car they do not and I'm pretty sure there not cross threading and help as I now have a door that only has a bottom catch
Sorry for the long story
Click to expand...

Have you fitted new J nuts too ?
They only clip in ....
 
I suspect different threads, or poor threads somewhere. Try to screw the bolts completely through the clipped nuts with them off the car first. If it all runs smoothly, put some copperslip on the bolts and try again.
 
That's part of my problem the look straight but I don't no if they go over the outside skin or between the two skins on the bulk head mine when removed where In bewtween the bulk head skins but on pictures people have them so you can see the clip part of the j bolt and they screw in fine by hand and I've smothered them in copper slip still the same it either goes half way in when it's on as if I've striped it but if you take it back off the but will then go in fine I was on with it for about 6 hours in total 6 fecking hours worst job I've ever done on any car I'd rather change the starter motor lol
 
The nut part should sit inside the door post. The clip can sit outside. I found I need to "assist" them into place with a small hammer. Fit the clips then try screwing the bolt in without the door/hinge to make sure it fits OK.
 
OP says they screw through by hand when off the vehicle but not when fitted which suggests to me they are contacting something preventing full tightening. Only thing I could think of is they are too long. I'd try a shorter bolt just to confirm it will tighten fully then go back to the supplier if the supplied bolts are indeed too long.

I decided to whizz my door hinge bolts out one at a time (my Fender is a '98) and was surprised how easily they came out considering they have been there since new. Greased and replaced so they should come out easily the next time I need to.
 
Memory is very foggy from when I did mine years ago but seem to remember them being different lengths?
So might be bottoming out as said?
I could be talking BS though, t'was many yrs ago!
 
tysonscarr said:
hi my door has been sagging a little bit at the top enough so it hits the car itself ever so slight so I checked the bolts and the top ones were loose tried to tighten them but the just spin so it was obvious that the j bolts were nakered so I have bought a set off eBay stainless ones with pozi drive heads I only need to do the top is I get the bolts out and can see where the j nuts Clio on to I remove them and replace in the same location soon as I put I bolt in and catch the threads it goes in fine till nearly half way then they stop dead or if I try it shears the new j but clean off
I've looked at pictures and on some of them the metal clip stays visible when in place but mine when removed where behind the outer skin is this anything to do with why the will not tighten properly they go in by hand fine when in you hand but once on the car they do not and I'm pretty sure there not cross threading and help as I now have a door that only has a bottom catch
Sorry for the long story
Click to expand...

Early 90/110 captive nuts aren't metric, they're 5/16 UNF (up to 300Tdi) and M8 metric (Td5 on)
What year is your truck ?
 
tysonscarr said:
hi my door has been sagging a little bit at the top enough so it hits the car itself ever so slight so I checked the bolts and the top ones were loose tried to tighten them but the just spin so it was obvious that the j bolts were nakered so I have bought a set off eBay stainless ones with pozi drive heads I only need to do the top is I get the bolts out and can see where the j nuts Clio on to I remove them and replace in the same location soon as I put I bolt in and catch the threads it goes in fine till nearly half way then they stop dead or if I try it shears the new j but clean off
I've looked at pictures and on some of them the metal clip stays visible when in place but mine when removed where behind the outer skin is this anything to do with why the will not tighten properly they go in by hand fine when in you hand but once on the car they do not and I'm pretty sure there not cross threading and help as I now have a door that only has a bottom catch
Sorry for the long story
Click to expand...

Your trying to fit stainless into steel which is a big no no in Engineering as they are expandable at different rates. Stainless is none lubricating and despite what you think it may not be exactly the same thread it clearly is not and seizes when warm as you create friction as you screw them in. Stainless bolts HAVE TO BE LUBRICATED on fitting and is best done with copper crest grease. If it was me I would guage the thread of the new stainless bolts (the TPI and diameter) check its compatible with L.R threads then buy a plug tap and re tap your fitted nuts clearing out all the debris. Grease up your new bolts and Bob is your Aunty Fred in they go no hassle.
 
I had a problem bolting a rear tub bracket to the rear cross member with stainless nut and bolt. The nut and bolt seized together half way down the bolt and then the bolt sheared. Mentioned it on here and James Martin told me about galling, which can happen to stainless. The threads 'cold weld' together. Might be that?
 
Sorted it it was a duff set of j nuts all though bought together in a set it had metric and non metric threads on the j nuts like a pick and mix selection lol thanks for help
 
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