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vengeful

New Member
td5 defender 2001. was all working fine. left on the drive for a week. got in started it up.it fired up but coughed and sputtlered for about 20 seconds. i started to reverse. stopped after 5 metres or so, went into neutral and it stalled / died / spluttered to a halt. now it will not fire up again.

alarm seems fine. used different fobs. seems to work as normal. nothing unusual in its operation.

checked all the fuses. under the drivers seat and on the dash.

drained the fuel filter. seemed fine anyway.

removed a fuel supply hose in the engine and that seemed to be pumping normally.

it cranks over fine but will not fire up.
it seems starved of fuel and the way it initially started and ran also suggested not enough fuel getting through and therefore it eventually stalled.

any ideas. the rear pump seems to be working harder than normal, lots of noise and gurggling when i initiate the ignition.


any ideas. i am working on it now, so i will keep checking back during the day. i will keep trying a few things and see.

i cant get the immobiliser out my head as a possible cause. but it seems to all work fine from the key fob.

grrrrrrrrrr...anyway its stuck half way down the drive, only good thing is my other car is not blocked in by it. ideal fo going to get spares!
 
vengeful said:
td5 defender 2001. was all working fine. left on the drive for a week. got in started it up.it fired up but coughed and sputtlered for about 20 seconds. i started to reverse. stopped after 5 metres or so, went into neutral and it stalled / died / spluttered to a halt. now it will not fire up again.

alarm seems fine. used different fobs. seems to work as normal. nothing unusual in its operation.

checked all the fuses. under the drivers seat and on the dash.

drained the fuel filter. seemed fine anyway.

removed a fuel supply hose in the engine and that seemed to be pumping normally.

it cranks over fine but will not fire up.
it seems starved of fuel and the way it initially started and ran also suggested not enough fuel getting through and therefore it eventually stalled.

any ideas. the rear pump seems to be working harder than normal, lots of noise and gurggling when i initiate the ignition.


any ideas. i am working on it now, so i will keep checking back during the day. i will keep trying a few things and see.

i cant get the immobiliser out my head as a possible cause. but it seems to all work fine from the key fob.

grrrrrrrrrr...anyway its stuck half way down the drive, only good thing is my other car is not blocked in by it. ideal fo going to get spares!
Click to expand...

Might seem like a silly question but how much diesel is actually in it? has it been secure over the week it was parked up as doozul theft is rife.
 
lots of diesel in it, and it has a secure home. i removed a fuel pipe inlet on the fuel assembly and it flowed freely when the system was prime, so freely in fact i am now cleaning the drive up while i think of other things to try. i do notice the glow plug indicator only comes on sometimes, i am thinking this is because its warm enough already. when i airbleed the fuel system. ie ignition and pump the throttle, the engine managemnt error light flashes until i turn the ignition off and back on again.

today i am hating my landy. this all came out of the blue, from it running perfect.
 
*bump* additional information to my woes. my rear speakers were shorting out on the tub. is this a red herring for my troubles or has it blown something. i am currently out of idea of where to go or what to do next.
anyone want to come round and help me push the damn thing up the driveway.
i would prefer some ideas of why i can no longer fire it up.
i spent the day cleaning up wd40 - ing all the connectors.
i am at a loss as to its sudden malfunction...help me now!!!:mad:
 
nanocom diagnostic found this
FAULT 10-01 air conditioning fan drive open load LOGGED
FAULT 10-03 tachometer open load LOGGED
FAULT 10-04 gearbox/abs drive open load LOGGED
FAULT 10-05 air conditioning clutch open load LOGGED
FAULT 14-01 air conditioning fan drive open load CURRENT
FAULT 14-04 gearbox/abs drive open load CURRENT
FAULT 14-05 air conditioning clutch open load CURRENT
FAULT 27-07 topside switch failed post injection LOGGED
FAULT 31-01 injector 1 open circuit LOGGED
FAULT 31-02 injector 2 open circuit LOGGED
FAULT 31-03 injector 3 open circuit LOGGED
FAULT 31-04 injector 4 open circuit LOGGED
FAULT 31-05 injector 5 open circuit LOGGED
research says ecu..i dont want to believe this.
cleaned the wiring harness-it looked fine.

anyone know af places to get a cheap new ecu model nnn500020 or maybe a seondhand one.

ive had a leaking fuel pressure regulator that may have screwed something up. thats been renewed and i have been cleaning up with wd40 all the connectors, but still it will not fire up. no engine management light comes on either,
anyone got an other ideas.
i intend to look at the throttle area, water has leaked down the pedal before and it may have had water damage to some part on this item.
 
That many faults suggests ECU. All 5 injectors reading open circuit?

Have you checked all the connectors under the bottom, theres one somewhere i think that fails often. WD40 also won't fix a broken connection, it will only drive out water. It actually doesn't conduct itself, so if youve filled a damaged connection with it it won't actually help too much.
 
an injector wiring loom has been ordered, should be here tomorrow, will fit that as a matter of course, start at the cheapest options, work upto the bigger money items, is is possible the ecu map has screwed up. i am considering rewriting it with a replacement. i did have the speakers shorting out on the bodywork for a few days before i realised.

i have a haynes manual coming too so i can work my way through the relative connectors and sensors.
 
The speakers shorting should make no difference, as far as i know the radio is not an intergral part of the ECU etc, so it shouldn't make any difference - the worst that could have happened is if damaged the amp in the radio, which caused a voltage drop, but that seems very unlikely to me.
 
i sorted it. got a second hand ecu (re configured it) and it fired up first time. i tried to reset my original ecu but it still wouldnt work. i decided to peek inside it and its clear to see the damage in there. looks too far gone to justify a repair on it. i can only think the shorting out speakers have some how contributed to the ecu failure. the attached pictures show the ecu damage-looks like a mini explosion took place in there. i will be leaving the rear speakers and cd stack unpluged for a while.
 

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Just be careful that some other component hasn't blown that board. Leave that radio disconnected for at least a week just in case.
your pic was blurred but I could see that the board was blown badly.
Could be just a board component failed and done that damage but as i say be careful for a while.
 
Hi

I am experiencing similar problems, I am told that a resistor has gone in the ECU , but I can get hold of a Circuit Board Diagram to get the value of the resistor to replace , can you assist .

FOR ME IT WAS A CASE OF DRIVING TO THE LOCAL SHOP, STOPPING AND WHEN I GOT BACK IN IT WOULD NOT START , THE MOTOR TURNED , BUT WOULD FIRE??
 
The resistor will either have the value stamped on it, or a series of coloured bands around it. If it has bands on it a quick google for resistor colour coding will give you the answer.

However i have no idea of the wiring in the ECU so I can offer no help as to if this is the cause of your problems or not.
 
The immobiliser stops the engine cranking so I'd guess this is OK as you say it turns over. Check the crankshaft position sensor connector on the side of the bell housing is clean. Its quite a delicate bit of kit and easily damaged.
 
oops ignore my previous post - was still reading page 1 and did not see the ECU pictures until I posted this.
I've never seen one that badly cooked before now. You didn't do any welding on your chassis with the battery connected did you?
 
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