Just trying to fit a hawk central locking kit to my 2000 TD5 110.

looking at the lengths of the loom supplied by hawk, I have decided to situate the control box next to the 10AS unit behind the instrument panel. Plenty of room there, and will hopefully integrate it into the 10as so it will all work from the single plipper.

as a power source I was going to use the redundant air con fuse/feed with a 10a fuse, but right next to the 10as is the feed for the dash clock.... which i could just tap into, to save running an extra set of wires up from the fusebox.

I understand the clock and 12v socket are both on a 10A fuse so should this be ok?

the reason i ask is that the wires for the clock do look a little thin, and I wouldn't want them melting into something else - could this happen?

The hawk system has its own 10 Fuse on the live feed

I didn't fancy messing with the 10as power supply given the problems people seem to have with it, (although when everything is working with the hawk plipper, I aim to try to solder the trigger wires from the hawk relay to the 10as board as per other posts, If I'm brave enough!)

thanks

Connect into it's own dedicated supply.

Although the clock only needs a small amount of current, the 12V socket is generally abused up to the fuse rating!

A tip is to always use a bigger cable than the original rating.

Where did ya buy it from, I am toying with fitting central locking to mine.

Ebay:

UNIVERSAL*REMOTE* KEYLESS CENTRAL DOOR LOCKING KIT | eBay

Great price, but just been positioning box and running the wires so far...

Separate supply it is then!!!

Dibdab said:

Ebay:

UNIVERSAL*REMOTE* KEYLESS CENTRAL DOOR LOCKING KIT | eBay

Great price, but just been positioning box and running the wires so far...

Separate supply it is then!!!

Click to expand...

Interesting, when you've got a moment, reckon you could put some pics up of how the lock mechanisms fit/link to the locks in the Defender doors?

Also, does is remove the key barrel completely? I don't want to be only relying in the central locking.

D90mitch said:

Interesting, when you've got a moment, reckon you could put some pics up of how the lock mechanisms fit/link to the locks in the Defender doors?

Also, does is remove the key barrel completely? I don't want to be only relying in the central locking.

Click to expand...

Yeah - i'd be interested to see that too.

I bought a very similar kit on ebay a couple of months ago. Took the door card off and realised it was nigh on impossible to find a position to fit the motor as the door panel, frame, glass all came too close to fit anything new. Might have been due to the old school lift up handle door but in the end I gave up and sold the set at a car boot sale!

Good luck!

I'll be watching this thread. I've bought a hawk kit as well but haven't got round to fitting it. How do you plan on getting the wires from the dash to the doors? Have you got some kind of trucking / sheathing?

Cheers
Russ

RAMBIRKETT said:

I'll be watching this thread. I've bought a hawk kit as well but haven't got round to fitting it. How do you plan on getting the wires from the dash to the doors? Have you got some kind of trucking / sheathing?

Cheers
Russ

Click to expand...

+1, I got a kit from someone on here, do you know if hawk do a proper defender fitting guide as its a little hard to follow!

No pressure now then, Dibdab

james6546 said:

+1, I got a kit from someone on here, do you know if hawk do a proper defender fitting guide as its a little hard to follow!

Click to expand...

No i havent seen a specific wiring instructions for the defender

OK I will keep you updated and sort the pics

so far the hawk control box is next to the 10AS.

the hawk loom is a long thing with branches off, as opposed to 4 long branches.
first branch with 5 wires goes out of the back of the instrument cavity to the door seal and down to the door stay/spring area, and hangs there coiled up for now.

the next branch, two wires for the f/n/s door goes out through the bottom of the cavity, (speaker removed for access) above the pedals next to a thick black/wrapped cable, and runs behind the bulkhead soundproofing (how come this is so rusty here for a 2000 vehicle? - solid but bits the size of small cornflakes coming off - any way to stop this?). this wire has got as far as the fusebox so far.

next branch two wires (but later branches to 4) goes out through the back through the same gap as the 5, but goes up following the alarm sensor wires behind the plastic trim on the f/o/s pillar. I was then able to poke a piece of fence wire from the trim by the o/s roof window to the f/n/s corner, tape the cdl wires to it and draw them back through - there is a lot of space up there!

I'm at a fork in the road here as to whether the r/n/s branch will 'fish' over the top inside the roof cavity, and they can both drop down the mid pillars, or they will both have to come down the o/s mid pillar, and the n/s one go under the carpet behind the seats.... but it doesn't look quite long enough for this..

hopefully it will make more sense when i put some pics on. I aim to finish it neat and tidy and have ordered convoluted tube conduit to get the wires into the doors. along with extra wire etc from vehicle wiring products, derbyshire.

the rear door feed will be a branch added in the area of the top of the mid o/s pillar.

This is my intention anyway.....

I will post some pics, it will take some time to finish, and I cant guarantee it will work in the end.... but it takes my mind off the day job.

Ok, done.
I'm struggling to get he post to look right, so is it ok if I share this as an album?
sorry some of the pics are on their side, the just keep uploading in landscape format!

Its all done and working apart from the integration with the 10AS box. I get nothing. I figure it probably needs activating through software. any ideas? I took the 'how to' from this post: Fitting Central Door Locking to a Defender


heres my effort:
Land Rover Zone - Dibdab's Album: '00 td5 110 fitting hawk central locking

Neat bit of fitting there. Hope you get it working.