limeypete33 · Feb 8, 2020

lynall said:
How did you actually test the stop solenoid?

I pulled the connector out and made sure it had 12v with the ignition on, then I placed the connector against the terminal to make sure I could hear it. I could pull it altogether but I'm checking other things at the mo.

That unit by my tank is another solenoid - guessing part of the aftermarket immobiliser that was installed in this. Good news is it does work, but must always be open and shut off closed under power because it never gets power to the attached terminals...

Also if I want to put in an electric pump, I can put it right here lol.

lynall · Feb 8, 2020

limeypete33 said:
I pulled the connector out and made sure it had 12v with the ignition on, then I placed the connector against the terminal to make sure I could hear it. I could pull it altogether but I'm checking other things at the mo.

That unit by my tank is another solenoid - guessing part of the aftermarket immobiliser that was installed in this. Good news is it does work, but must always be open and shut off closed under power because it never gets power to the attached terminals...

Also if I want to put in an electric pump, I can put it right here lol.

That only tells you if the power supply is good, they still tend to click when they are bad.

Normally aftermarket fuel cut off will have power to it when ignition on, which opens it and when ign off no pwer to solenoid cutting the fuel off.
If you think about ot logically if it took power when the car was not running it would flatten the battery sooner or later.
I would defo be bypassing that aftermarket thing as a test, as that could well be your issue.

I bet if you mentioned it was fitted in the first place, a few people would have said to start there.

limeypete33 · Feb 8, 2020

Welp... I took that POS out, and she is running great now.

I will report back but that solenoid must have had an iffy connection because it did close without power, but it was more like a governor than a true shut off.

Does that sound right?

lynall · Feb 9, 2020

limeypete33 said:
Welp... I took that POS out, and she is running great now.

I will report back but that solenoid must have had an iffy connection because it did close without power, but it was more like a governor than a true shut off.

Does that sound right?

I have no idea if its right or not, maybe its a home made job? or it could just be faulty, which would explain your lack of power.
The important thing is its running great now.

You can buy fuel cut off valves, only thing is to make sure its has a big enough for for the fuel flow.

limeypete33 · Feb 18, 2020

It's been a while, so I thought I would post an update.

Since removing the solenoid, I have put plenty of miles on the Land Rover with no issues - even some really cold temp days and some longer drives. So I believe I can put this one to bed for now! Only thing I want to do is chase the cables that went to the solenoid to see if they are loose at the other end and that will be a nice way to tidy up the root cause. Then get rid of them completely.

Thank you all for your help, I really appreciate it. This forum is such a great resource.

Onto the next "challenge" lol.

lynall · Feb 18, 2020

limeypete33 said:
It's been a while, so I thought I would post an update.

Since removing the solenoid, I have put plenty of miles on the Land Rover with no issues - even some really cold temp days and some longer drives. So I believe I can put this one to bed for now! Only thing I want to do is chase the cables that went to the solenoid to see if they are loose at the other end and that will be a nice way to tidy up the root cause. Then get rid of them completely.

Thank you all for your help, I really appreciate it. This forum is such a great resource.

Onto the next "challenge" lol.

Might be powered by a relay or some hidden switch?

limeypete33

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lynall

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limeypete33

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lynall

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limeypete33

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lynall

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