Adamchenny

New Member
hi guys i recently bought a defender and i have done quite alot of work to it, one thing i am getting stuck with is when i start it from cold when sitting there for a whilke it turns over a few times before firing and runs rough for 30 seconds, if i switch it off after it firsts fires even though spluttering hasnt cleared it will start instantly and is fine when warm and goes well. i have replaced glow plugs, new bosch injectors as they were shot anyway, recon starter, new spill pipe down to injector pump. the battery is strong and earth is good. what shall i try next? i am thinking the fuel is going back to tank from a split in pipe somewhere or seal gone? or timing slighty wrong. any help would be appreciated thanks adam.
 
You could check the timing is correct - takes 10 mins ;)
But it does sound like you have air in the fuel line - you could put a bit of clear pipe in the fuel line from lift pump to filter and between filter and fuel pump - you will be able to see bubbles then and narrow it down to where the air is getting in. Don't forget to check the injector leak off banjo washers and pipes too - i had the same thing and changed the injector leak off pipes and washers - sorted :)
 
Hi daz, Yeah I bought a whole new spill line and it came with new banjo bolts and washers so that shouldn't be a problem. Will try the clear pipe what size pipe is it so I can order some land rover isn't at home in a mates garage.
 
What about the spill pipes between the injectors, mine were knackered and when I replaced them this issue went away. Took about 10mins and £2.
 
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I replaced the spill off pipes already that's what I hoped it was. I have just had another look tonight forgot my 8mm pipe unfortunately but I have cracked off bleed screw on filter housing and primed for ages usin left pump and nothing turned over for 10 seconds it started and was spitting out loads of air the went pure diesel. Does that narrow anything down.
 
Yep you have an air leak somewhere and fuel is syphoning back to tank-when starting you are cranking to prime filter again.Now you just have to find leak!
 
Yep you have an air leak somewhere and fuel is syphoning back to tank-when starting you are cranking to prime filter again.Now you just have to find leak!

As a quick check have a look at the pipes where they return to tank -

the tank unions have been known to split and that's the last place to look -

so check all pipe joins ... :D
 
hi guys i recently bought a defender and i have done quite alot of work to it, one thing i am getting stuck with is when i start it from cold when sitting there for a whilke it turns over a few times before firing and runs rough for 30 seconds, if i switch it off after it firsts fires even though spluttering hasnt cleared it will start instantly and is fine when warm and goes well. i have replaced glow plugs, new bosch injectors as they were shot anyway, recon starter, new spill pipe down to injector pump. the battery is strong and earth is good. what shall i try next? i am thinking the fuel is going back to tank from a split in pipe somewhere or seal gone? or timing slighty wrong. any help would be appreciated thanks adam.
I'm only an old novice but had a similar problem caused by air getting into through the input union on the lift pump
 
Right a quick update, I put some clear hose form lift pump to fuel filter and then to injector pump. The air bubbles were coming from lift pump so I put a new lift pump in it and new fuel lines from lift pump to fuel filter to injector pump. And it's still leaking back to tank. I have put new olive on spill of rail where it goes back to injector pump. All new fuel line next? Regards Adam
 
If you have bubbles between lift pump and filter you need to put some clear pipe between tank and lift pump - so you can narrow down where the bubbles start ;)

You might be drawing in air BEFORE the lift pump ;)
 
Well you asked for advice - the clear pipe should be a tight fit to the other fuel line so won't leak and won't introduce air - but will allow you to see air in the fuel.

If you don't want help - don't ask for advice ;)
 
I have lifted drivers seat out and there the return I think has a joiner in already I pulled the joiner out and no diesel came out is that normal i had it running on Tickover. I take it the one with the bigger metal bit on the top is the flow pipe?
 
Well you asked for advice - the clear pipe should be a tight fit to the other fuel line so won't leak and won't introduce air - but will allow you to see air in the fuel.

If you don't want help - don't ask for advice ;)

Sorry I didn't mean it like that. Just thought I might have been thick lol
 
I had exactly this issue and fixed it in one, relatively easy go by forgetting the mechanical lift pump and fitting a low pressure electric lift pump. Went from the cranking you describe to first time, every time.
It also makes bleeding replacement fuel filters a piece of cake, plus offers the option of an additional anti theft device if you also fit a cut out switch.

Mike.
 
I had exactly this issue and fixed it in one, relatively easy go by forgetting the mechanical lift pump and fitting a low pressure electric lift pump. Went from the cranking you describe to first time, every time.
It also makes bleeding replacement fuel filters a piece of cake, plus offers the option of an additional anti theft device if you also fit a cut out switch.

Mike.

Have you got a link for the one that you fitted. Thanks for reply
 
Sorry -- no link; it was a Delco pump I had off Ebay with another job in mind. I suspect that any electric pump designed for use with carburettors rather than injection would do the job. I vaguely recall (please don't quote !) that most of the mechanical lift pumps deliver at about 4 - 5 psi, so something in that area should be fine.
I have used the firm at this link Electric Feed Pump 12v from SSL diesel Parts Heavy Duty and had good service. I reckon the pump in this link would be spot on.

Good luck with it.

Mike.
 

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