greyhair
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a good idea
Retroanaconda
Well-Known Member
I have FatMat Rattletrap (similar to Dynamat) on the entire bulkhead face, floors, and seatbox. Then the proper Land Rover SW soundproofing and carpets over all that, with the exception of the bottom footwell pieces. Instead there I have the rubber Land Rover mats with the foam backing. Plus factory soundproofing on the engine side of the bulkhead and under the bonnet.
In the rear I have seatboxes and sides treated with either more FatMat or flashing tape, then carpets and rubber matting. Side panels have proper SW trims modified to fit the hardtop sides and carpet inserts where the windows would be. Then full headlining up in the roof.
The combination of soundproofing and removal of bare metal surfaces makes it a reasonably pleasant place to be, noise only starts getting oppressive around the 65-70mph mark. There's probably more that can be done in the way of engine blankets etc. but I've not felt the need to yet.
In the rear I have seatboxes and sides treated with either more FatMat or flashing tape, then carpets and rubber matting. Side panels have proper SW trims modified to fit the hardtop sides and carpet inserts where the windows would be. Then full headlining up in the roof.
The combination of soundproofing and removal of bare metal surfaces makes it a reasonably pleasant place to be, noise only starts getting oppressive around the 65-70mph mark. There's probably more that can be done in the way of engine blankets etc. but I've not felt the need to yet.
greyhair
Well-Known Member
Yes been looking at the kits
would change the foam and covers though if i was going to do it
greyhair
Well-Known Member
Yes, i did the seat frames last year but the foam could do with changing
zeaphod
Well-Known Member
The blind from a Volvo v70 estate would do the trick nicely - they are just clipped in place in the car. It could be clipped to the bulkhead and would pull up to fix at the back of the passenger compartment roof lining.
The one off my Mondy is pretty heavy. I was thinking a standard window roller would be much lighter, mounted to the bulkhead behind the seat and a catch mounted to the two centre roof lining clips. Having said that, those heated seat kits are tempting.
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bluedog333
Well-Known Member
How about a length of thermal-lined curtain ( household window type )? Might be easier to install.The one off my Mondy is pretty heavy. I was thinking a standard window roller would be much lighter, mounted to the bulkhead behind the seat and a catch mounted to the two centre roof lining clips. Having said that, those heated seat kits are tempting.
You can then also pretend you're a trucker!
Yes I built a partition between the front and back
and this is how.
first I screwed a wooden beam to to top of the bulkhead to bring it level with sides of the tub.
To that I screwed 5 inch wide plank, front edge of the plank level with front edge of the bulkhead.
Exactly above that another 5 inch plank was screwed across the roof rails.
Behind the driver, To the back edges of the planks, I screwed pine cladding, cutting to fit exactly between the lower plank an the roof. I could have used a sheet of ply, but it was easier to cut the cladding bit by bit.
A frame was made to fit in the center and passenger gap between the upper and lower planks.
I worked out the width required to give a clear view of the rear door window in the reversing mirror.
That part of the frame was clad with 1/2 in clear acrylic ( because I had some, I would have bought 1/4 inch).
The rest of the frame, was covered in more cladding.
Brass drop bolts are used to hold the frame in place.
The area between the top plank and the roof was filled with bits of left over cladding.
Behind the driver and the passenger, 4 inch thick foam was glued entirely covering the front face of the cladding. This was covered in cloth matching the seat covers .
On the shelf formed by the top plank, the outer corners are occupied by loudspeakers for the radio.
The center of the top shelf is part of a roof console screwed there, with the front edge of the console plugged into the slots in the front edge of the roof / window frame. I've mounted a radio in there so far but have yet to fit CB and courtesy lights.
The head rests were removed from the seats, if I had needed it I could have put thinner foam on to give more room behind me, but at 6 ft tall i find the 4 inch gives me a perfect headrest.
I think the foam helps absorb the noise...
I wonder if you can make a driving jacket out of that stuff
greyhair
Well-Known Member
The front section of roof has been insulated with the kit from NKGROUP
it made a huge difference
The rear roof section was covered with a cheaper insulation I got from Harris trim, again good stuff and easy to use
I Also had enough left over to cover the side panels.
I then decided to cover the side panels with ply wood and trim them with veltrim I think its called
First time I have done anything like this but well chuffed with how it turned out.
it made a huge difference
The rear roof section was covered with a cheaper insulation I got from Harris trim, again good stuff and easy to use
I Also had enough left over to cover the side panels.
I then decided to cover the side panels with ply wood and trim them with veltrim I think its called
First time I have done anything like this but well chuffed with how it turned out.
greyhair
Well-Known Member
Yes, its a very cooldig the 911
Needs a good clean
Hard-Drive
Active Member
I've come across so many people now who have the polar opposites of one of Stuttgart's and one of Solihull's finest in the garage. Must be a love of simple effective mechanics, the analogue driving experience, and the small puddle of oil under each. 986 2.7 owner here...
greyhair
Well-Known Member
Sadly its not mine, It's my Brothers Toy
We just keep leaving stuff in my Dad's Garage
