saxmanuk · Mar 16, 2021

Hello everyone - have searched as always however - A few queries to be hopefully answered by those of you with greater experience of these things than I !
See pics attached
In the process of my chassis change ( different thread ) I have removed my engine of course!
While its out I am gonna check it over - 1st thing I noticed was the oil at the back and side of the engine,
I believe its coming from maybe three areas
1) sump leaking
2) PAS pump leak and spraying ?
3) rear crank seal - or gasket seal

I have removed the flywheel and housing and it looks as if some oil has come from behind the large gasket at the bottom - the actual seal looked ok
When I rebuild and re attach my flywheel cover/ seal do I
1) Ignore the large casket and just put loads of Hylomar blue on the surfaces?
2) replace gasket with Hylomar on both surfaces of the gasket
3) replace the gasket with Hylomar on just the engine side
4) dont use anything at all except the gasket ?

thanks Sean

mick 1986 · Mar 16, 2021

saxmanuk said:
Hello everyone - have searched as always however - A few queries to be hopefully answered by those of you with greater experience of these things than I !
See pics attached
In the process of my chassis change ( different thread ) I have removed my engine of course!
While its out I am gonna check it over - 1st thing I noticed was the oil at the back and side of the engine,
I believe its coming from maybe three areas
1) sump leaking
2) PAS pump leak and spraying ?
3) rear crank seal - or gasket seal

I have removed the flywheel and housing and it looks as if some oil has come from behind the large gasket at the bottom - the actual seal looked ok
When I rebuild and re attach my flywheel cover/ seal do I
1) Ignore the large casket and just put loads of Hylomar blue on the surfaces?
2) replace gasket with Hylomar on both surfaces of the gasket
3) replace the gasket with Hylomar on just the engine side
4) dont use anything at all except the gasket ?

thanks SeanView attachment 233361 View attachment 233363 View attachment 233365

When I replaced the rear gasket and crank seal, I used RTV on every surface the gasket came into contact with. It was just a smear to make sure it was all sealed up. I also put a small bead around the outside edge of the crank seal.

turrican · Mar 16, 2021

Also, after fitting rear crank seal you need to let it settle for a good few hours (maybe 12) before you start the engine. This is because when the seal is fitted it is stretched over the fitting guide and it needs time to return to its normal size.

tottot · Mar 16, 2021

Get a new gasket, the proper one comes with firm beads of sealer already on it [ blue strips on your old one ]
Get a Dowty seal and make sure surfaces are clean and dry before fitting [ important ] no oil must contact it.
Front crank seal may need doing as well as sump. Now is the time while engine is out.
You tube is your friend. When it comes to the rear seal do it right, do it once.

lynall · Mar 16, 2021

I would advise a little smear of loctite around the outside edge of the rear main seal, I had a new one come loose, several years later it is still secure and leak free.

Blue hylomar is what I would be using on top of the gasket.

tottot · Mar 16, 2021

+ 1 on a touch of sealer on the outside of crank seal.

saxmanuk · Mar 18, 2021

tottot said:
Get a new gasket, the proper one comes with firm beads of sealer already on it [ blue strips on your old one ]
Get a Dowty seal and make sure surfaces are clean and dry before fitting [ important ] no oil must contact it.
Front crank seal may need doing as well as sump. Now is the time while engine is out.
You tube is your friend. When it comes to the rear seal do it right, do it once.

Thanks - I have gone to Turners and bought their seals - a bit more expensive but not so much as taking the whole engine out again!

saxmanuk · Mar 18, 2021

lynall said:
I would advise a little smear of loctite around the outside edge of the rear main seal, I had a new one come loose, several years later it is still secure and leak free.

Blue hylomar is what I would be using on top of the gasket.

Lynall - do you mean on the edge of the seal as visible when its located in the cover - i.e. the edge that sits up against the gasket ? and by loctite you mean RTV? I will take another pic and point to the area once I do the job

lynall · Mar 18, 2021

saxmanuk said:
Lynall - do you mean on the edge of the seal as visible when its located in the cover - i.e. the edge that sits up against the gasket ? and by loctite you mean RTV? I will take another pic and point to the area once I do the job

I mean the very outside edge of the metal ring itself, (ie the tyre tread on a wheel) by loctite I mean bearing or stud/hread locker, loctite being the best known brand.

TBH I have never seen one come loose before ever, and it was the decent make/expensive seal (green Iirc) which meant it doubly psised me off!
For the amount of work involved to have to replace it a second time I would happily loctite any future ones in.

tottot · Mar 18, 2021

When I last did mine I put a smear of RTV on the outer edge of the crank seal where it contacts the housing being careful not to get any where the seal contacts the crank.
Hint. The last one I did was a very tight fit in the housing and looked likely to distort if pushed harder, so it spent half an hour in the freezer and then with a tad of RTV it went in no problem. Take your time and good luck.
[ I know someone who had his motor out three times because he used cheap parts the job was rushed and instructions not followed. ]

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