Help! I'm trying to remove the engine from my defender 200tdi for a clutch replacement. I've disconnected the electrics and fluids and ready to pull the engine out but I can't get the engine mounts off completely. on the near side mount I've undone all all the bolts but cant get the mount off completely. On the offside mount I cant even remove the bolts on the engine block because they can only be undone so far before they start to touch the engine mount stud (threaded bit of the rubber engine mount. I dont have much experience with Land rovers but is there a sequence/technique in removing the engine mouts completely so that i can slide the engine out.
ifloochies
Well-Known Member
A few years back, I had a defender's 110's clutch fork fail on me as has done countless others. I found that it was easier to work on by unbolting and removing the seat box so I could have easy access to the gearbox. I would then unbolt the gearbox from the engine and strap a sling under it tied between the 2 chassis rails so it would simply slide forward to mate with the engine after the work is done. All in all, 3 to 4 hours work and so much easier than having to work lying on your back. Maybe you could post a photo of just what you're dealing with in your vehicle, because in my experience the engine mounts on a 200tdi are not that difficult to remove.... all the best mate
mrchurchill109
Active Member
I take it lifting the engine to clear the mounts is not working? Question - are you hitting the tunnel or another restriction?
Were it me and with the mounting brackets on the engine loose I'd rock the engine side to side to get extra clearance on the mounts to get the rubber bits out, then drop it back down to disconnect it.
ajr
Were it me and with the mounting brackets on the engine loose I'd rock the engine side to side to get extra clearance on the mounts to get the rubber bits out, then drop it back down to disconnect it.
ajr
Yes!. I've done it. All I needed to do as has been suggested here is lift the engine a bit and out it came. Whoever did the clutch before did a sh1t job!!!!. Found that the fork has been welded where it had punched through, also had welded on a new pin that holds the slider pad and one of the pads was home made and of a different size! Obviously I bought all new part now including the slave push rod. However, I've noticed that the new push rod is longer than the one that came out. See attached photo. Can some one please tell me if I have the bought the wrong part (FTC5199) or is the push rod that is fitted another fxxkup!!!! My landy is defender 200tdi 110 1991 with the LT77 GB
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mrchurchill109
Active Member
.3 inches is not going to be a huge deal as long as you are not bottoming out the cylinder when you put it back on. At worst it will make the clutch engagement point move a bit up from the floor (only first cup of coffee here - bear with the memory 
).
Have a look at the manual and make sure you have all the mounting bits that are supposed to be there - memory (again fuzzy so do't take this as gospel) is remembering a spacer or shim between the cylinder mounting face and the bellhousing...if that's gone missing then that my be why the Dreaded Previous Owner potentially took a grinder to it.
I know well what previous owners can do - had my throwout disintegrate half-way home on a 16-hour trip - at a Customs gate, no less...
ajr
).Have a look at the manual and make sure you have all the mounting bits that are supposed to be there - memory (again fuzzy so do't take this as gospel) is remembering a spacer or shim between the cylinder mounting face and the bellhousing...if that's gone missing then that my be why the Dreaded Previous Owner potentially took a grinder to it.
I know well what previous owners can do - had my throwout disintegrate half-way home on a 16-hour trip - at a Customs gate, no less...
ajr
Hi Mark_d,
I am about to change my engine mounting rubbers (defender 200Tdi in a 90) as well. Can you tell me how you got them out? Note that I do not want to take the entire engine out, nor disconnect the gearboxes from the engine. I already lifted the engine with a trolley jack under the oil pan after loosening the nuts on both engine mounts, but I cannot lift the engine high enough to get the rubbers out. The gearbox seems to run into the tunnel at bulkhead level when I jack the engine up.
I could try to remove the engine mounting brackets from the engine, but the bolts are very hard to reach (fuel pump is terribly in the way).
My engine mounting brackets on the chassis side are welded onto the chassis (new galvanised Marlsand...)
Hope you or someone else can help me out.
I am about to change my engine mounting rubbers (defender 200Tdi in a 90) as well. Can you tell me how you got them out? Note that I do not want to take the entire engine out, nor disconnect the gearboxes from the engine. I already lifted the engine with a trolley jack under the oil pan after loosening the nuts on both engine mounts, but I cannot lift the engine high enough to get the rubbers out. The gearbox seems to run into the tunnel at bulkhead level when I jack the engine up.
I could try to remove the engine mounting brackets from the engine, but the bolts are very hard to reach (fuel pump is terribly in the way).
My engine mounting brackets on the chassis side are welded onto the chassis (new galvanised Marlsand...)
Hope you or someone else can help me out.
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blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
You might find it easier to undo one side and then lift so the engine twists rather than a straight lift. IIRC when I did mine I slackened off gearbox mounts as well. Still took a little prying with a bar to get the old out and new in.
sp00k
Well-Known Member
It can defo be done. I did a 200 TDI conversion recently and after I had the engine in I decided to renew the rubber mounts with genuine ones. The bolts on the offside are hard to reach - impossible with my good spanner set, but I found an old cheap spanner which just fitted. You could always grind down an old spanner to fit. It's also easy to remove the driver side mount from the block itself and them remove the rubber mounts.
I've never had a problem removing the bolts from the underside of the rubber mounts. Access is easy from underneath.
Once the engine is lifed (I used a hoist), you can jiggle it from side to side whilst pulling at the mounts until you can slide them out.
Refitting is similar. Whichever side you do first is easy. To do the other side, I used a fence post to push the engine around as I fettled the mount into place. Took about 10 mins but with someone else to move the mount whilst you fettle, it would be much easier.
So in summary, remove bolts on bottom of rubber mounts. Remove bolts on top of rubber mounts. Hoist engine. Jiggle and wiggle to remove old mounts. Jiggle, wiggle and fettle to fit new mounts!
I've never had a problem removing the bolts from the underside of the rubber mounts. Access is easy from underneath.
Once the engine is lifed (I used a hoist), you can jiggle it from side to side whilst pulling at the mounts until you can slide them out.
Refitting is similar. Whichever side you do first is easy. To do the other side, I used a fence post to push the engine around as I fettled the mount into place. Took about 10 mins but with someone else to move the mount whilst you fettle, it would be much easier.
So in summary, remove bolts on bottom of rubber mounts. Remove bolts on top of rubber mounts. Hoist engine. Jiggle and wiggle to remove old mounts. Jiggle, wiggle and fettle to fit new mounts!
Thanks for your replies guys, I will try again then.
Sp00k: just to verify: you left the engine mounted brackets in place, right? You just undid the top and bottom nuts on the bolt that goes through the rubber?
A Hoist would indeed be very useful, but I don't have access to such a nice tool.
My story is that I recently had my chassis swapped for a galvanised Marsland Chassis. In the procedure the rubbers were changed as well (Bearmach ones), but ever since the vibrations idling are unbearable. It feels as if my windows are about to pop out and the rear door will fall off. I already tried slackening the nuts that hold the engine/gearbox rubbers in place and retightened them after the engine ran for a minute, without much improvement. Now I bought a pair of rubbers I read good reviews about from glencoyne 4x4: Engine mounts 200TDi Series Defender OEM
Hope this improves the bad vibrations. Will do the engine rubbers first to see what happens. Will leave the gearbox rubbers in place for now.
Oherwise the engine runs very smoothly, no problems there.
Will keep you posted.
Sp00k: just to verify: you left the engine mounted brackets in place, right? You just undid the top and bottom nuts on the bolt that goes through the rubber?
A Hoist would indeed be very useful, but I don't have access to such a nice tool.
My story is that I recently had my chassis swapped for a galvanised Marsland Chassis. In the procedure the rubbers were changed as well (Bearmach ones), but ever since the vibrations idling are unbearable. It feels as if my windows are about to pop out and the rear door will fall off. I already tried slackening the nuts that hold the engine/gearbox rubbers in place and retightened them after the engine ran for a minute, without much improvement. Now I bought a pair of rubbers I read good reviews about from glencoyne 4x4: Engine mounts 200TDi Series Defender OEM
Hope this improves the bad vibrations. Will do the engine rubbers first to see what happens. Will leave the gearbox rubbers in place for now.
Oherwise the engine runs very smoothly, no problems there.
Will keep you posted.
here is what I had to do. Removed nuts from the top of the rubber mounts. then removed the nuts from the bottom of the rubber mounts. lifted the engine as high as I could. Undid the bolts of the engine mount bracket on the engine block on the offside (driver side on a right hand drive landy in the UK). The metal bracket and the rubber mount came off. Then rocked the engine to get the rubber mount from the other side.
sp00k
Well-Known Member
I took the nuts off the top and bottom of the mount rubbers. I then slacked off the drivers side engine mount (the one on the inejction pump side - as it's so easy to access). With this mount loose, it was then easy to remove the rubber mount on the driver side. With the driver side done, I was then able to rock the engine and push it around with a wooden post enough to wiggle the other mount out. To refit, I did it in reverse doing the passenger rubber mount first, then fitting the new rubber mount on the driver side (but leaving the bracket to the engine loose until both mounts were in place).
I also got the mounts from glencoyne 4x4. I'm going to ring them because one of them snapped when I was torqueing up the bolts. It must have been defective as I had just started to tighten it and it sheared, so after all that work I then had to refit one of the originals anyway!
If you have that much vibration, maybe your idle speed is too low - I know mine is but I don't want to fiddle with anything just yet.
Hope that's clearer.