dag019 said:

preparation of the vehicle is just important as maintenance/repair enroute. Before attempting the journey I would be wanting to thoroughly check and possibly replace out of precaution all suspension bushes, shocks and springs, brakes all around, wheel bearings, steering joints, UJ's, and a through service as a minimum. I would second the above that the 00tid is an all mechanical platform ideal for bush mechanics.

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D1Nut said:

Then after replacing the above
take all the wheel bearings, front and rear radius arm bushes, all the oils needed ( you will be doing an oil change on the way anyway 0 , brake pads , uj joints
If you cant replace wheel bearings for eg you will find someone in a small village who can

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dag019 said:

This^^ I had the below list of spares on my packing list for my 8k mile trip around Morocco (took nearly three weeks and we drove down through France and Spain) in a 200tdi but it is far from exhaustive. Although most of it I did not need, I did require shock and panhard rod bushes and I did require a full fluid and filter change just because of the mileage covered. the ones in red I also just carry with me as a matter of course in the uk as if they fail they are a show stopper but i can usually replace them in the time I would wait for the AA!

Brake pad front
Brake pads rear
Wheel bearing x2
Uj x2
Fully poly bush set
Lift pump
Alternator belt
Fan belt
Inner tube
Wire
Connectors
Relays
Brake pipe
Brake/clutch Conectores
Clutch pipe
gasket paper (various thickness)
headgasket kit
Atf
Ep90
Brake fluid
Engine oil
Redex
Wire coat hanger
Full set of filters x2

I would also add that although you say that your mechanical skills are currently quite basic if you do all of the preparation work yourself and do the repairs and replacement parts required on your own you will then have the skills and knowledge to be able to do them on the road. so by preparing the vehicle you are also preparing your self and developing your mechanical skills.

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landowner said:

Better with an old Land Cruiser for that sort of trip, more spares available over there if needed

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D1Nut said:

Then after replacing the above
take all the wheel bearings, front and rear radius arm bushes, all the oils needed ( you will be doing an oil change on the way anyway 0 , brake pads , uj joints , all ball joints
these are all small items to carry
If you cant replace wheel bearings for eg you will find someone in a small village who can
Edit
Nice trip you got planned - this is a Facebook page of a couple doing that route at the moment -
https://www.facebook.com/rafikiontour - although its in a 10p td5
another fairly current info - albiet on a motor bike - https://www.youtube.com/@ItchyBoots

and finally - weight is your enemy
but cold beer is priceless

Edit again
This kit will pay for itself many many tines over and single handedly makes the 300 tdi into a very reliable motor

Vehicle Specific Kits | Madman Developments

madmandevelopments.com

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v8250 said:

+++ you may like to upgrade some of the components to HD items for toughness. Take a look at Gwyn Lewis, there are 4x items I'd be using for this trip

1. HD GKN UJ's for the prop shafts https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product-category/propshafts/defender-300tdi-td5/
2. Gwyn Lewis engine/gearbox/differential wading breather kits https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product-category/wading-kits-fittings/
3. OME steering damper https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product-category/steering-items/
4. Polyurethane track drop boots [modern pseudo-rubber el cheapo jobbies last 5mins] and take a spare set https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product-category/steering-items/

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RustyDefender said:

and their sumobars

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v8250 said:

+++ you may like to upgrade some of the components to HD items for toughness. Take a look at Gwyn Lewis, there are 4x items I'd be using for this trip

1. HD GKN UJ's for the prop shafts https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product-category/propshafts/defender-300tdi-td5/
2. Gwyn Lewis engine/gearbox/differential wading breather kits https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product-category/wading-kits-fittings/
3. OME steering damper https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product-category/steering-items/
4. Polyurethane track drop boots [modern pseudo-rubber el cheapo jobbies last 5mins] and take a spare set https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product-category/steering-items/

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Discodevon said:

You might struggle to find a decent 110 300tdi, when looking at getting a defender I would 100 percent take someone with you who is clued up on them: edit sorry my reply was a little vague, but seriously try and find someone who frequently works on land rovers and take them with you before you part with any money

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Karekke said:

The car is currently close to Glasgow... I have requested as many pictures and videos as possible - but when I go up, I will be alone - don't know anyone up there who could join. I do not really know anyone who has experience with 300TDI...

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dag019 said:

I know what I mention below is not what you have linked but OP needs to be aware there are two arguments in terms of doing the HD upgrades and you have weigh up which one is better for you. If you upgrade to heavy duty parts you are less likely to break them but by doing so you move the weak point of the system to something else that is harder or more expensive to replace.

Couple of examples of that:
HD drive flanges, these are the weakest point of the drive system, are very cheap parts, and are 5 external bolts to replace. If you fit HD drive flanges, the half shaft becomes the weakest point and you break a half shaft instead which is more expensive and more involved to replace. if you fit uprated half shafts then the diff becomes the weakest point etc.

Heavy duty steering bars, the steering bar is the weakest point and bends. if this happens you can straighten them well enough to continue with minimal tools and any local mechanic would be able to straighten further. if you fit HD bars that do not bend the failure point becomes either the ball joint or the swivel casting the ball joint sits in. breaking one of these is a far more involved job than straightening a bent steering bar.

I prefer standard for this reason and carry spares and protect things (eg. steering guard). I would rather something fail and break that can be easily fixed at the side of the road than fit an HD component and whereas less likely to break when it does it is not something that can be repaired with basic tools on the side of a track. There is also the argument that standard parts are more likely to be able to be sourced in remote locations. Suspension is the common one for this with springs and shocks being the most obvious. If you uprate them but still break one the chances of getting something specialist is fairly slim but the chance of getting a standard one is much higher even if it is an old one/used one.

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dag019 said:

I know what I mention below is not what you have linked but OP needs to be aware there are two arguments in terms of doing the HD upgrades and you have weigh up which one is better for you. If you upgrade to heavy duty parts you are less likely to break them but by doing so you move the weak point of the system to something else that is harder or more expensive to replace.

Couple of examples of that:
HD drive flanges, these are the weakest point of the drive system, are very cheap parts, and are 5 external bolts to replace. If you fit HD drive flanges, the half shaft becomes the weakest point and you break a half shaft instead which is more expensive and more involved to replace. if you fit uprated half shafts then the diff becomes the weakest point etc.

Heavy duty steering bars, the steering bar is the weakest point and bends. if this happens you can straighten them well enough to continue with minimal tools and any local mechanic would be able to straighten further. if you fit HD bars that do not bend the failure point becomes either the ball joint or the swivel casting the ball joint sits in. breaking one of these is a far more involved job than straightening a bent steering bar.

I prefer standard for this reason and carry spares and protect things (eg. steering guard). I would rather something fail and break that can be easily fixed at the side of the road than fit an HD component and whereas less likely to break when it does it is not something that can be repaired with basic tools on the side of a track. There is also the argument that standard parts are more likely to be able to be sourced in remote locations. Suspension is the common one for this with springs and shocks being the most obvious. If you uprate them but still break one the chances of getting something specialist is fairly slim but the chance of getting a standard one is much higher even if it is an old one/used one.

Click to expand...