C

Crazy Climber

New Member
Right. I've been looking and looking at getting my first Defender, I've searched on here and been reading all that I can to try and make the best decision for me.

Main uses are to be everyday car, some off roading/green laning (more as I become hooked and get the hang of it) and to be used as a camper type of wagon i.e. have some form of bed in the back and possibly cooker for trips to UK mountains, maybe europe one day...
To this end, I'm figuring a 110 hardtop would be best (due to extra length/load space) as I would also like to keep a couple extra seats - thinking have at least one bench in the back...

Right now, my budget is a max of 3-4K
Having studied the autotrader and flee-bay and monthly mags classifieds, there are some around for that price but not many. I have seen some ex-MoD 2.5 na ones for around this mark.

So my main question (to begin with!) is do I go for an Ex-MoD 2.5na (or similar) or keep saving and spend a bit more on a tdi? (although I have seen a couple tdi's in my current budget, are they likely to be dogs tho?)
I like the simplicity of the MoD rovers but am wondering if I'll be missing out by not having the patience to wait out till I've saved a bit more...

Also how flat do the second row of seats in a CSW fold down? there are a couple of those in autotrader not too far from me...

1990 LAND ROVER DEFENDER 110 county
1991 LAND ROVER DEFENDER County Stn Wagon 12 Seats Tdi 110 Lwb Diesel

What do people think?

Cheers!!
 
tomb raider look alike?Someone needs their eyes testing. Not sure about folding seats, always had vans.Not even sure they fold down....
 
goonarmy said:
tomb raider look alike?Someone needs their eyes testing. Not sure about folding seats, always had vans.Not even sure they fold down....
Click to expand...
I did wonder...

Yea I figured there isn't a great deal of info on either of them so though I'd see what anyone with more experience thought before a make the trek to see them...

I think I am leaning more towards the van type myself. Seem a bit more hard wearing and I like the simple utilitarian look and feel.

any thought on my current budget? and the tdi vs na conundrum?
 
I personally would go for the tdi, although I have to admit I have no knowledge of the na. I think when I was looking I ruled out the na on account of people saying they're underpowered in comparison.

Yeah you'd need the second row to fold if you want a bed in the back. Alternatively, a roof tent. Although they do seem expensive.

One other thing to bear in mind, with more than eight seats you need the right category on your licence.
 
The middle row of seats in a 110 CSW do fold -- the backrests all fold, then the whole seat tips forward flush against the front seats.

Compared with a hard top (van), I suppose you lose about 7-8 inches of maximum load length.
 
Makes sense that they would seem under powered - I am the opposite though, have only ever driven a na...
Does anyone know what the consumption is like between the na and tdi?

I have rulled out a roof tent on cost and em-bugerance factor and just not really wanting one to be honest.

I had wondered about the extra seats, if I had a CSW I'd probably not need the rear benches, would removing these solve that issue or would you still need the D1 on the license?

Thanks Langers. I could probably work around that still. Just the license catagories to clear up to put a CSW back in the running
 
Last edited:
Crazy Climber said:
Makes sense that they would seem under powered - I am the opposite though, have only ever driven a na...
Does anyone know what the consumption is like between the na and tdi?

I have rulled out a roof tent on cost and em-bugerance factor and just not really wanting one to be honest.

I had wondered about the extra seats, if I had a CSW I'd probably not need the rear benches, would removing these solve that issue or would you still need the D1 on the license?
Click to expand...

N/A around 22-23 mpg, Tdi, a good one, should give you 30.
 
The NA D is a very underrated engine, it isn't a ball of fire but a good one will go on for ever and return between 26-28MPG. Don't buy one and then expect it to perform like a more sophisticated engine but accept it for what it is and you won't be disapointed.

An ex-MOD 110 would give you a (very) blank canvas to start with, they are simplicity itself and if you get a good one you should find it is loaded with many new/replacement parts whereas if you buy a bad one and you will buy something that is completely worn out and requiring an expensive rebuild.
 
Well going on the advice so far it seems like it will be a case of what ever comes up that I can afford will be the one to go for. I could quite happily work with the blank canvas, and as you say - a good ex-mod (or council one I presume too) will have been looked after and serviced regularly.
In the mean time I'll keep on reading here and searching and saving.
:)
 
My personal preference (and something I have done several times over the past 20 years or so) is to buy ex-MOD direct so no-one else has had a chance to muck it about. Get the right one and you can just start to work on it straight away but get something that has been mucked about by an enthusiastic but numpty owner and you can spend time (and money) putting right what they have done.

Common problems are the electrics. MOD electrics are much better on 90/110's than on the Series vehicles and even an FFR isn't the problem it once was however some people do all sorts of things to rid themselves of the NATO light switch when in actual fact it can be dealt with very easily for the cost of a new light switch (about £12) and an hours work.
Other problems are that people tend to bolt things onto an ex-MOD vehicle that would never have been fitted in the first place (they like to "enhance" the military look), there are usually enough holes in the bodywork anyway but you certainly don't want a load more.
I have seen the simple seat swabs replaced with all sorts of arrangements (some good but most bad) and you usually end up with terrible seats out of a scrapper which are not correctly fitted, with no access to the battery and a hacked around seatbox which may need to be replaced. LR seats are a direct replacement and do the job perfectly.
 
Where's the best place to look to find one direct?
From what I know, as long as it's not been fudged, there's very little to go wrong on the Mod ones. This is looking more and more like the way to head.
How does the N/A (or tdi for that matter) engines fare to being run on veg oil? As this might be a consideration to help keep costs down.
 
Crazy Climber said:
Well going on the advice so far it seems like it will be a case of what ever comes up that I can afford will be the one to go for. I could quite happily work with the blank canvas, and as you say - a good ex-mod (or council one I presume too) will have been looked after and serviced regularly.
In the mean time I'll keep on reading here and searching and saving.
:)
Click to expand...
mod and cuncil ones will not be the same. The mod ones are designed for the army and have a xd chasiss for this. Id look at council ones in the same light as ex utility ones. Yes theyve been serviced regular but they have worked for a living. Also you have no idea of how they have been driven. I tend to rag work vehicles cos they aint mine and if anything goes wrong ya give it back....Ratty has an ex utility one i think or EA, ask him wot he thinks of it.
 
Yea that is the down side, I too know from experience the phase 'Drive it like a hire car' is only too true and as you say, if it breaks you just give it back. The plus side being they on the servicing side they will have been looked after.

It's swings and roundabouts I guess as the above can be said for Civi vehicles too (tho you are normally a bit gentler as you have to pay for repairs yourself)

[URL="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130556893413&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT"[/URL]

Found this one on the bay, from the pics it looks good, tho looks like its just had a good wash so guess that could hide something in the pics... it's quite high mileage, but still about average for its age I would say.
Hopefully will be going to see it in the next couple of days, anything in particular to look out for? Chassis, bulkhead, footwells?
 
Well having seen it just now, it's not too bad. but as you say bit of a steep price for it's miles (It's been around europe with the previous owner)

There was some rust underneath, but didn't appear to be too much, had a bit of welding done to the rear cross member to pass the last two MOTs though. when lifting the doors when open they seemed quite slack, indicating door hinges are a bit tired I guess?
Had the usual scrapes and dents on the panels but that's to be expected.
My main concern though was when changing gear and you let the clutch up there was what appeared to be a considerable clunk, there was a bit of slop on the prop shafts but the UJs seemed ok. Is this normal mixed with my lack of experience diving them or are my concerns justified. There was also oil around the transfer box, not pouring out but a bit more that average...

My guts say keep looking and saving, what would you say about how I have described the clutch/props/transfer box?
 
How big/expensive job is that likely to be?

Obviously you have only seen the pics and read the description, What would you say as a sensible price?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

dag019
Station wagon conversion
Replies
11
Views
900
shaynecm
S
R
Value advice
Replies
2
Views
285
miktdish
miktdish
G
Defender 90 advice
2
Replies
30
Views
2K
grandy21
G
P
Landrover Snatch insurance/ conversion
Replies
1
Views
762
Snatched
S
tweedandbriar
Is it always the Syncro?
Replies
2
Views
166
Knappster
Knappster