I am pretty sure the road was clear but you never know. As it's not a daily driver it will stay in my garage until it's fit to grace the roads!
300bhp/ton
Well-Known Member
Apologies. I think my post was maybe a little harsh/rude.
Is your vehicle modified? What size wheels/rims and off set are you running? Are you sure it wasn’t that bit of road causing it more than the vehicle?
frog hopper
Well-Known Member
Apart from the accumulation of a series of worn joints, my bet is that the swivel pre-loads are out so would be worth checking that out while your about it.
No worries, I run 235/80/16 mud tires with no lift and 8mm offset. I have driven that road every working day for the last 4 years and it is generally in good condition. Perhaps there was something on it, I really can't say. The steering feels wobbly but again that could just be me as it did shake me up somewhat!!
I will spend time on it over the weekend. We have a trip planned next month so I need confidence in it before then.
I will post pics if I find anything.
Thanks I will check that out too.
300bhp/ton
Well-Known Member
Did the steering go heavy? Could it be a pump/pas issue?
It did get hard to do anything with. It shook violently and nearly wrenched the wheel from my grip.
The pump is a second hand one I put on a few months ago so could be suspect?
It's a 200tdi lump in a 19j 1987 90 if that makes sense?
Fair enough. My 90 is not modified and the violent shaking did not return. If it had continued, I would have parked up and called the RAC,
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Get a helper to wobble the steering wheel then you can look at the joints & panard rod bushes before doing any work.
Once done jack up & check wheel bearings & preload.
Once done jack up & check wheel bearings & preload.
A quick update.
I removed the steering guard as I could see nothing wrong. I grabbed the damper end and could waggle the steering arm ball joint. I removed the steering link arm and could easily move the ball joint on the other end too.
Guess which are the only parts I did not order.....
It also shows that no matter how much you poke and prod if you have a large piece of steel guarding your steering, you need to be even more vigilant when checking your vehicle over.
So when I have finished, the front will have new springs, shocks (including galv turrets) steering damper, steering arm, all ball joints, steering column UJs and panhard etc bushes.
I removed the steering guard as I could see nothing wrong. I grabbed the damper end and could waggle the steering arm ball joint. I removed the steering link arm and could easily move the ball joint on the other end too.
Guess which are the only parts I did not order.....
It also shows that no matter how much you poke and prod if you have a large piece of steel guarding your steering, you need to be even more vigilant when checking your vehicle over.
So when I have finished, the front will have new springs, shocks (including galv turrets) steering damper, steering arm, all ball joints, steering column UJs and panhard etc bushes.
neilly
Well-Known Member
Nice, getting more and more like triggers broom, but will be worth it.
Make sure to measure your track rod.
Cheers
The chassis is in amazing condition considering its 32 years old and has over 150,000 miles on it
I don't really know if it is original although the number matches.I will have changed most of the bolt on bits in the last year
just the 'A' frame at the rear and the swivel housings in the front to go........Cheers for the reminder on the length!
frog hopper
Well-Known Member
At the risk of teaching granny to suck something or other, are you replacing the turret rings?
I was lucky with mine, all nuts came off fine, but I did drown them in plus gas for a week beforehand.
I was lucky with mine, all nuts came off fine, but I did drown them in plus gas for a week beforehand.
Indeed I am, I have purchased the full kit from paddocks. I took one look and knew it would be erroneous to try without it
I have ordered the rest of the components now. I have also ordered a 36mm socket for the drop link nut. I noted that the torque setting is 174 Nm or 130 ftlb yet I managed to undo it with an adjustable spanner and pulled it from the splines with a standard 2 leg puller!!
Absolutely. I am taking no chances and replacing everything suspension/steering related.
The Landy is a toy, but it is still a road going vehicle and as such I feel that it should be as good as the day it left Solihull (or better
)
frog hopper
Well-Known Member
Just once have I had a drop arm joint that came off easily, every other time I've taken one off (7/8 times ) it has been with blood, sweat, and once tears when I had to cut one off. I have since bought a ****part drop arm joint replacement tool, have to say worth it's weight in blisters.
