jai_landrover said:
like stated check everything and report back what you find i would leave swivel pins till last tho personally Jai
Click to expand...

I listen to all this stuff, but mine was perfect until I bent the rear steering rod and destroyed the damper, it wasn't an impact either just got stuck on the tree stump and by the time I got it off foked the steering.

All my steering components are fine, wheel alignment etc etc all fine, and it all leads back to the damper not being able to take out the wobbles. Once the weather gets a bit better I will get under it again, but at this minute It's got me stumped.

There must be guys on here thats driven without a damper and had this problem.
 
Yes like i said the damper can hide the problems. It will drive perfectly without one if everything is in good condition.
I would still suspect swivels being just a shim or 2 too loose, it can make a big difference and would put money on it being that.
You may not be able to feel it loose but when you disconnect everything from the swivel hub and move it around it should not be too easy to turn by hand.
 
thanks for all the replys, sorry i havent told you the outcome but two days after i posted the topic an 18yr old in a boy racered up golf went into the front of me landy while it was parked outside my house! arg! so its been off road for a couple weeks, i'll keep you lot informed and thanks again.
 
Have also had this problem in my Disco was told to look at replacing the front shocks as worn ones will cause it but still looking at the rest of the front end.
 
Hey guys, got the same problem.
64Mph and wow what the hell is that, 60 Mph for over 200 miles is er unusual even better when lorries are over-taking you lol
I got to my mums and had a look but couldn't see anything a miss, but the calipers where covered in crap, cleaned that off and 64Mph is ok just over it now....strange

I have had a new steering damper, and when looking at the steering noticed that the front rod that goes left to right is able to wiggle like a prop, but not side to side. could that be my problem?
Also I did notice that the rear shock bushes are no where to be seen, um could dodgy rear shocks cause a front wheel steering problem???

cheers Stu
 
heggars said:
I have had a new steering damper, and when looking at the steering noticed that the front rod that goes left to right is able to wiggle like a prop, but not side to side. could that be my problem?
Also I did notice that the rear shock bushes are no where to be seen, um could dodgy rear shocks cause a front wheel steering problem???

cheers Stu
Click to expand...

Jeez ... ANY worn bush can cause handling problems. If I were you I'd replace all of them, every last bush on all the suspension, including the A-Frame, trailing arms, radius arms etc etc. Simply not worth wasting money or time on, it needs doing .. SOON !!!! ;) If a couple have worn and are gone they they might all be going ...

I'd also suggest not driving it until you do replace them all, any bush missing, or so worn that it might pop out has the potential to feck you (and some innocent by-stander) up big-style, especially if it's on the steering.
 
Cheers for the reply Paul
Just had the wagon in getting the rear shocks, which pretty much weren't doing anything as the rubbers had gone!!! Grr

Asked him to check the steering rods etc he say's there fine but on my mates they don't move a mm like mine do..
Just wondering whose's wagon is right..He thinks that his might be to tight but I really don't know.
And now everytime I'm not moving and turn the wheel to the left there is a eeeerrrrrrr sort of noise, but when driving all is fine...totally stumped

Regards Stu
 
heggars said:
Cheers for the reply Paul
Just had the wagon in getting the rear shocks, which pretty much weren't doing anything as the rubbers had gone!!! Grr

Asked him to check the steering rods etc he say's there fine but on my mates they don't move a mm like mine do..
Just wondering whose's wagon is right..He thinks that his might be to tight but I really don't know.
And now everytime I'm not moving and turn the wheel to the left there is a eeeerrrrrrr sort of noise, but when driving all is fine...totally stumped

Regards Stu
Click to expand...

That noise is normal its the power steering straining a bit because its not moving.

Mine does exactly the same as yours, it was fine until I bent the rear steering rod, and damaged the damper. Not an impact as such, yes I had hit a few other stumps and damaged the bodywork underneath but it was bent because I drove over a stump, the steering guard dropped it onto the rear steering and most of the damage was caused getting it off.

The vehicle drove ok after but during an inspection to get the mud and forrest off I noticed the bent arm and damper bashed and leaking. But it still drove ok!!

I straightened the steering rod and fitted a paddocks, probably britpart damper, and low and behold mad steering. I then bought a new rod, and still mad, steering aligned and still the same, took the damper back off and made sure it was bled/primed ok, still same.

I changed the drag link end at the same time, marked it and fitted it back exactly the same place, but cant see how this would cause this unless the steering was aligned where the knuckle joint on the steering box was in an adverse position but its not. Tried playing with the steering alighnment and with more toe in, but fokal use.

However I saw a thread on here where somebody was asking about where the damper should be, and somebody commented that the drag link was fitted wrong.

All my bearings, joints etc are fine, so my opinion is it's either the damper that is ****, or its something to do with the set up of the drag link, and I have fitted trillions of them to trucks so its got me fooked.

But it's frightening on the road if you hit a bump, resonates until you get the speed down.

So have you touched the drag link, or damper, had the damper off to check its still working?
 
david451 said:
That noise is normal its the power steering straining a bit because its not moving.

Mine does exactly the same as yours, it was fine until I bent the rear steering rod, and damaged the damper. Not an impact as such, yes I had hit a few other stumps and damaged the bodywork underneath but it was bent because I drove over a stump, the steering guard dropped it onto the rear steering and most of the damage was caused getting it off.

The vehicle drove ok after but during an inspection to get the mud and forrest off I noticed the bent arm and damper bashed and leaking. But it still drove ok!!

I straightened the steering rod and fitted a paddocks, probably britpart damper, and low and behold mad steering. I then bought a new rod, and still mad, steering aligned and still the same, took the damper back off and made sure it was bled/primed ok, still same.

I changed the drag link end at the same time, marked it and fitted it back exactly the same place, but cant see how this would cause this unless the steering was aligned where the knuckle joint on the steering box was in an adverse position but its not. Tried playing with the steering alighnment and with more toe in, but fokal use.

However I saw a thread on here where somebody was asking about where the damper should be, and somebody commented that the drag link was fitted wrong.

All my bearings, joints etc are fine, so my opinion is it's either the damper that is ****, or its something to do with the set up of the drag link, and I have fitted trillions of them to trucks so its got me fooked.

But it's frightening on the road if you hit a bump, resonates until you get the speed down.

So have you touched the drag link, or damper, had the damper off to check its still working?
Click to expand...


Hi David

Thanks for the reply sorry I haven't been able to get on here for a while.
I have had the wheels balanced and the front two were well off, the passenger side couldn't be done as it's slightly offline??? so they didn't charge me "bonus- Kwik Fit in Canterbury, cheers guys" But the problem had changed the speed at the wobble came in on, so i changed the front left for the spare but still the same.

I have changed the damper but made no difference at all and got it's mot today at 4:30 so bricking it...
Just wondering what they will find, I've got 2 new shocks for the front as they need changing but will see what they say.
Taking her to Straton 4x4 in horncastle who were nice enough to stay open for me to get there...

Need her to pass, got to go south this weekend..let you know what happens

Regards Stu
 
classic kev said:
Check your swivel bearing pre-load. Just a thought, it is easy to overlook.
Click to expand...

Hi Kev

Thanks for the reply,silly question but how easy is it to change the pre load.

Thankfully she passed with only 7 advisories which are very easy.
discs are slightly low, childs car seat fitted, sills covered in thick mastik, n/s/r n/s/f hubs slightly loose,

well chuffed....

I tightened the front hub nut and the wheel doesn't move an inch now and the ride is a lot better no wobble but a very slight vibration every now and again.
So going to get a new steering rods and links to be safe as it looks like the steering damper casing had been ripped off by previous owner going over something.

Keep you posted.
 
heggars said:
Hi Kev

Thanks for the reply,silly question but how easy is it to change the pre load.

quote]

Not a job I have done, but essentially disconnect everything from the swivel, so track rod basically. The preload is measured by the force it takes to move the swivel after overcoming inertia. For most Landys this is measured with a spring balance, for some you measure it with a torque wrench and an adapter. I think the spring balance method is probably easier.

Anyway, look in Rave/workshop manual it will ahve the details in there. The preload is changed by adding or removing shims from the top swivel pin, again all in Rave/workshop manual. If I've missed something I'm sure somebody will set you straight.
Click to expand...
 
classic kev said:
heggars said:
Hi Kev

Thanks for the reply,silly question but how easy is it to change the pre load.

quote]

Not a job I have done, but essentially disconnect everything from the swivel, so track rod basically. The preload is measured by the force it takes to move the swivel after overcoming inertia. For most Landys this is measured with a spring balance, for some you measure it with a torque wrench and an adapter. I think the spring balance method is probably easier.

Anyway, look in Rave/workshop manual it will ahve the details in there. The preload is changed by adding or removing shims from the top swivel pin, again all in Rave/workshop manual. If I've missed something I'm sure somebody will set you straight.
Click to expand...



Cheers Buddy will Do.

TTFN
Click to expand...
 
Hi, I had exactly the same problem. The shuddering would normally start at roughly 65mph and would continue for as long as motion, or my nerve, lasted. In addition, at lower speeds, it felt as though the front wheels were up in the air, or what one garage called "shopping trolley syndrome".

My problems started after the MOT in December 2008. A new steering damper (non Land Rover part) was fitted. I subsequently spent hundreds of pounds replacing the track rod and track rod ends, hub bearings, draglink ball joints, bushes etc together with the costs of labour.

The problem remained and was eventually diagnosed by a Land Rover specialist, who in over 30 years experience, had never witnessed such a violent shaking movement and said that the vehicle was not driveable. The garage used a donor vehicle to exchange parts, eventually finding that the steering damper was faulty. I went back to the original garage, who fitted a new damper (same generic type) and the problem remained. Once a genuine Land Rover damper was fitted, the problem stopped. It transpires that rather than "damping out bumps etc" it actually exaggerated them to the extent that the axles where acting against one another. I will be taking this up with the manufacturer of this part as it is highly dangerous. My advice; for the sake of a few pounds buy the genuine article as it may save spending hundreds on other needless parts. I've noticed on several forums that there are countless people with the same problem that appears to happen at the same speed, circa 65mph.
 
Marc Potter said:
Hi, I had exactly the same problem. The shuddering would normally start at roughly 65mph and would continue for as long as motion, or my nerve, lasted. In addition, at lower speeds, it felt as though the front wheels were up in the air, or what one garage called "shopping trolley syndrome".

My problems started after the MOT in December 2008. A new steering damper (non Land Rover part) was fitted. I subsequently spent hundreds of pounds replacing the track rod and track rod ends, hub bearings, draglink ball joints, bushes etc together with the costs of labour.

The problem remained and was eventually diagnosed by a Land Rover specialist, who in over 30 years experience, had never witnessed such a violent shaking movement and said that the vehicle was not driveable. The garage used a donor vehicle to exchange parts, eventually finding that the steering damper was faulty. I went back to the original garage, who fitted a new damper (same generic type) and the problem remained. Once a genuine Land Rover damper was fitted, the problem stopped. It transpires that rather than "damping out bumps etc" it actually exaggerated them to the extent that the axles where acting against one another. I will be taking this up with the manufacturer of this part as it is highly dangerous. My advice; for the sake of a few pounds buy the genuine article as it may save spending hundreds on other needless parts. I've noticed on several forums that there are countless people with the same problem that appears to happen at the same speed, circa 65mph.
Click to expand...

Thats exactly what mine does and only after I fitted new parts after bending the steering, nothing else is faulty and I have been hoping that somebody would say this because I have always suspected the damper, purchased at paddocks a spurious one.

Thanks, off to buy a decent one now.
 
Just one other thing to check while your on with it, the front wheel tracking. tow in/out.
Oh! and one other thing tire pressures, I've found really important.

Regards
RichardG
 
My 300TDI has exactly the same problem.... Having a new 'heavier' steering damper fitted soon..... Hoping really hard that this will solve the problem, cause it is getting verrrrry annoying not being able to use your car at speeds over 60mph!

Robert
 
301TDI said:
My 300TDI has exactly the same problem.... Having a new 'heavier' steering damper fitted soon..... Hoping really hard that this will solve the problem, cause it is getting verrrrry annoying not being able to use your car at speeds over 60mph!

Robert
Click to expand...

I fitted a landrover damper and it cured mine, the new one I fitted prior to that was too powerful, or just crap because it didnt dampen out the shocks just increased them to a frightening out of control occilation where you had to get the speed off before you crashed.

So I guess in terms of fitting a super dooper mega strong one might be counter productive. But as has been mentioned before on this thread, the swivel bearings have to be properly adjusted aswel.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
Steering wheel wobble
Replies
4
Views
372
tyregeezer
tyregeezer
B
ABS Issue
Replies
14
Views
814
Bangerang1
B
M
Disco 3 (LR3) Discovery 3 sagging overnight
Replies
0
Views
254
Matt BB
M
D
Freelander 2 wobble/judder
Replies
19
Views
2K
Danger Steve
D
L
Death wobble on a 300tdi
Replies
8
Views
2K
currymunster
currymunster