What rpm does the 1.8 box give at 70 compared to using the Derv box. Surely for the long distance journeys the final drive will help with economy, and being uprated will help manage the torque.

I pick my Mems 1.9 Hippo up next week and bring it home, it'll be a slow and steady project but just looking at the best way of doing things. So far its looking like I'll be fitting a Derv box to a 75's 1.8t and using a mems 3 1.8 hippo loom, ecu and 27vt, or seeing if a Rover mems 3 steptronic ecu can be paired with the 27vt so that the boost signal can be programmed in when mapped by z&f.

Then maybe try and use a mix of the 75's and hippos coolant pipework for an alloy rad and fit an FMIC. Besides an exhaust it'd just be an loom issues hopefully
 
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With the 1.8 turbo, at 70mph, it's still spinning at 3000rpm.

It could easily cope with longer ratios(at the expense of acceleration), or a 6th gear.

Higher final drive is no problem for the turbo K. A 6th gear would be a wonderful addition, sadly it's not possible on the PG1 box.
 
What rpm does the 1.8 box give at 70 compared to using the Derv box. Surely for the long distance journeys the final drive will help with economy, and being uprated will help manage the torque.

I pick my Mems 2 Hippo up next week and bring it home, it'll be a slow and steady project but just looking at the best way of doing things. So far its looking like I'll be fitting a Derv box to a 75's 1.8t and using a mems 3 1.8 hippo loom, ecu and 27vt, or seeing if a Rover mems 3 steptronic ecu can be paired with the 27vt so that the boost signal can be programmed in when mapped by z&f.

Then maybe try and use a mix of the 75's and hippos coolant pipework for an alloy rad and fit an FMIC. Besides an exhaust it'd just be an loom issues hopefully

The L series box is the way to go. Maybe coupled to the V6 IRD if tall gearing is needed?
From memory the L series spins at around 2500 Rpm at 70.
The U box was designed to take 240Nm of torque. The standard PG1 was rated at 170Nm. Although both will take more if you are careful. ;)
 
The L series box is the way to go. Maybe coupled to the V6 IRD if tall gearing is needed? From memory the L series spins at around 2500 Rpm at 70.
The U box was designed to take 240Nm of torque. The standard PG1 was rated at 170Nm. Although both will take more if you are careful. ;)

This could sound like a noob question, the 1.8 hippo hits around 102mph, the 75 1.8t gets up to 130. The Derv hippo reaches a tad under 100mph which the box will come from. How would you go about working out what rpm @ 'x'mph or theoretical top speed is using an L series PG1 with the v6 ird on a 1.8 turbo?

Besides fitting it all and finding out that way 😁
 
I can assure you, the 1.8 will hit more than 108mph. It will do almost that in 4th gear

EDIT: My 1.8, to avoid any confusion
 
Ah but it doesn't DD!! When LR fitted the L series into the Freelander they changed the adaptor plate. I can only assume, this saved making 2 different PG1 bell housings. The Freelander L series gearbox will mate up to the K series engine no problem and visa versa. If it were that simple, I'd have converted my V6 to a manual box. Sadly no, the the KV6, Rover L series and M/ T series don't fit the Freelander PG1 box.

Aha, this is why I also said the engine backing plate ;)



The big ally thing in this pic - held on by 4 countersunk bolts. These 4 holes are the same on the T series, along with the couple of large bolts on the top to my knowledge


It was what I was thinking about taking advantage of, to try to make an automatic L series - use a K series CVT. It wouldn't have survived long, but it would've been something to tick off the list, lol
 
Ah but it doesn't DD!! When LR fitted the L series into the Freelander they changed the adaptor plate. I can only assume, this saved making 2 different PG1 bell housings. The Freelander L series gearbox will mate up to the K series engine no problem and visa versa. If it were that simple, I'd have converted my V6 to a manual box. Sadly no, the the KV6, Rover L series and M/ T series don't fit the Freelander PG1 box.


You mean I've been misinformed all this time and it probably explains the lack of the T series turbo 4x4 that everyone raves about.
 
Aha, this is why I also said the engine backing plate ;)



The big ally thing in this pic - held on by 4 countersunk bolts. These 4 holes are the same on the T series, along with the couple of large bolts on the top to my knowledge


It was what I was thinking about taking advantage of, to try to make an automatic L series - use a K series CVT. It wouldn't have survived long, but it would've been something to tick off the list, lol

Ah yes you are correct. The Freelander L series adaptor plate will fit the M / T series engine. This would then allow for the Freelander box and 4WD.
I was forgetting that the adaptor plates are removable and interchangeable. It's over 10 years since I last saw a T series engine.
So there is another power unit for the Freelander. The downside to the T series is lower fuel economy over the K series. They can make good power though. My own Vittess turbo was making a healthy 250 Bhp. I did destroy 3 gearboxes in 2 years mind.
I do wish that the KV6 had a separate adaptor plate. Then I could have a lovely KV6 manual Freelander. The only way appears to use fabricated adaptor between the engine and box. While not impossible, it adds to the complication.
Never mind, I've still got my D3 and MGF to keep me busy. One day, I might KV6 power the F instead.
 
the T has a lot of torque though. prospectively LSD too.

The original rover T turbo was torque limited to under 200 Ftlb. This was to reduce warranty claims on the gearbox. The U spec PG1 box was designed to take 240Nm (177ftlb). It will take more but bearing life gets shorter, the more torque it takes.
LSD is only available for the FWD box. If you run the Freelander U PG1 box 4WD can be retained. 4WD is better than 2WD and a Torsen diff.
Pace would be rapid with a turbo T. A well sorted engine will have over 200 ftlb of torque. That's more than enough for the Freelander's chassis to handle.
 
My mk3 hybrid I sold for an L series, has been putting out over 280lb ft, for over 2 years now... and the owner has a lead foot, lol



No issues, whatsoever with the gearbox.


Also, theoretically possible to replace the IRD diff, with one modified to take the guts from an LSD. Getting the helical gear cut, to make a completely new diff would cost a stupid amount, hence modify the stock unit (even though very little may be left by the time you're done, lol)
 

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