Dave not sure if this could apply to a TD5(not had to mess with mine yet),but when I renewed my ps fluid in my Mondeo,I took off the belt off,and wrapped a piece of blue polypropylene rope twice round the pump pulley.I diverted the return hose to an empty container and plugged reservoir fitting with poly bag and elastic band.Then keeping reservoir topped up,I tensioned the rope and pulled to rotate pump-then release tension and pull rope back ready for another go etc etc(keeping an eye on reservoir level and topping as needed).
Carried on like this until clean "new" fluid showed at outlet-was surprisingly quick and "all going on in front of you"-none of this crawling underneath stuff.

Thanks for that mate, well worth knowing. I've just ordered my fan spanners and am trying to pick up a 2nd hand pump locally.

Cheers
Dave
 
A LR specialist told me that ATF could mess up part of the PAS system

Then I would have to say that he doesn't know his trade. Dexron atf is used in almost all car p.a.s. systems in the world.

Big + 1.
Not wrong with ATF in PAS. Meets the "book specification " for PAS fluid in the D2.
Another indie chatting BULL and selling £15/litre fluid :mad:
 
I got some oil out but not enough (the whole circuit contains approx 3ltrs of fluid) so I'm leaning towards a fubar'd pump. Just a shame they cost £150+ :eek:

Shame your not in the UK still Dave, ive got a used one in the garage! :doh:
 
Have just bought a 2nd hand pas pump off Ebay. Time will tell?
Dave

Indeed, is it from a reputable breakers??
The last thing you need is to find the 'new' pump has the same issue as your current one and you start looking elsewhere for the problem :eek:
 
Could it be due to ACE though?

Hmm, I think it's probably just the 'extreme climate' that is the difference TBH.

I ran dexron 3 in my D2 ACE system for ages and know a few others that have done the same too and had no issues.
 
Indeed, is it from a reputable breakers??
The last thing you need is to find the 'new' pump has the same issue as your current one and you start looking elsewhere for the problem :eek:

No mate it's a private seller. The price was sufficiently reasonable to warrant the risk.
 
Awaiting delivery of parts to continue with the pas problem; so decided to do other jobs on the list:

1. Remove side steps and brackets - check





2. Remove hulk of rusty metal that is the rear step - check

3. Engine oil change - check

4. Repaired black plastic battery cover - check

5. Cleaned and protected ACE pipes - check

6. New air filter - check

7. New full flow and rotor filters - check

8. New fuel filter - check

9. Main gearbox oilchange, MTF 94 (you should have seen what came out ! Brown silt, that's what.) - Check

10. Transfer box oilchange, Spirax going in as we speak - Check.


That'll do for today, must go and have a 'test drive' round to my mate's place - time for a bit of showing off I think :hippie:


Dave
 
No mate it's a private seller. The price was sufficiently reasonable to warrant the risk.

Call me an optimist ahy !!
Was Just thinking 'worst case sinario' with second hand parts, they can be great but dont rule them out.
Hope the new pump cures the problemo :)
 
Hi all, still waiting for bits for steering so I thought I would take a look at the front LH passenger window as it has been a little temperamental or just mental for short.

So I whipped the door card off, after finding ALL the retaining screws (missed one or two at first attempt) and eventually managed to get the window regulator out. The problem seems to be a busted little plastic clip/runner affair:



So I'll be off to order more bits from Paddocks in a mo' but just wanted to pose a question. As I couldn't do the removal as per the RAVE manual plus when you remove the electric motor everything just dangles free; where do I position the quadrant when I fit the motor to the new regulator? Is there any specific procedure or markings that will allow me to mount the motor so that the regulator (and therefore the window will be in the correct bottom and allow the window - when all installed - to reach the top of the frame.

See pics, this should be just about at the bottom of the quadrants travel:





 
I think I may have answered my own question in relation to calibrating the quadrant of the regulator, to the electric motor.

When I removed the motor I found these small indentations on the quadrant:




Which happened to coincide precisely with these marks here:



So I reckon that's the calibration taken care of, unless anyone knows any different?

Dave
 
Just had the first delivery from Paddocks - GOODEEE !!!!!!!!!




Now I can get that bastid fan off and get better access to do some jobs;

Cheers
Dave
 
Worth their weight in gold those fan spanners!! Not seen the open ended 36mm with a bend in the 'handle' before though :)
 
Worth their weight in gold those fan spanners!! Not seen the open ended 36mm with a bend in the 'handle' before though :)

Got them Paddocks for £20 - tried, tested and found to be most satisfactorily!!

Today has been mainly gearbox related - the quality of gear changing was not all it good be so:

1. Off with the levers;

2. Removed the four centre console retaining screws;

3. Unplugged the window switch panel, the 2 electric seat switch panels and the cigar lighter;

4. Lifted out the centre console;

5. Drilled out all the rivets that hold the cover plate in place and the 4 x 8mm bolts that secure the transfer box hi-lo lever;

6. Removed the rubber cover from the base of the gear lever to get access to the bias plate;

7. Slacken bias plate 4 screws (10mm I think) then select 4th gear and push the lever to the right, then re-tighten retaining screws.

Put back together.


Also replaced the gear lever gaitors so she's looking ever smarter.

Gearbox change quality now tip-top - Hurrah !!!

Dave

Sorry no pics, I was too concerned about getting the job done.
 

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