Interceptorxj
Well-Known Member
Why did you fit new flanges to the tbox and not just new seals?
Dave2302
Active Member
Last edited:
Dave2302
Active Member
The old ones were rusty and pitted around the seal area, very common in our salty climate
The Seals had been done before, but whomever didn't change the Flanges, that's why I bought the Kits with all parts, (Flange, Nut, Seal, Muck Thrower, and Felt Seal)
I've had this issue before with all my previous Landy's and customers ones with the LT 230 T/Fer Box
Seals do work sometimes, but not usually in our Climate, for the price paid was well worth not having to do the job again in a month or 2
Dave2302
Active Member
Discovery update, from close of play last night ....
So whilst waiting for the Watts Linkage, (on it's way now, hopefully be here by the w/e), I decide to do some small (ha ha) jobs on the D15KOE which involve a small amount of welding ....................
It needs Mud-flap Bracket left rear, and Mud-flap Bracket right front, which I already bought.
The left rear looked to be easy, just weld on a 5" Long x 1.5" wide piece of steel with a 45 degree fold to the Rear inner arch lip and drill a couple of holes to bolt the new 'Fud-m'lap' bracket to, so I decide to tackle the front right first as the 3 studs holding it to the front floor pan are minging rotten and gonna snap, so my plan is remove a few bits of trim from the drivers footwell, fold back the carpet to prevent smoke / flames / fire , then grind the nuts off the 3 floor studs and spot weld the bracket onto these, plus also there is a small triangular plate to weld on the front inner Sill's Body Mount bracket .................
Therefore it seems the front will be harder than the rear and I always like to attack the hard bit of a few jobs first and finish with the easiest ...........................
So I did the front in around an hour and a half, just gotta buff and Schutz that area now
Pixels :-
Front Mudflap Bracket spot welded to the 3 stud stubs on the floor pan ....
And the wee plate on the forward edge of the Body Mount ....
So that was easier than I thought, time to do the rear left
Workshop busy so it went on hold for a couple of days, and then I get to weld in my 45 degree mounting plate for the rear Flap Bracket ....
Also made a couple of aluminium repair plates as the lower rear (ally) 1/4 panel steady bolt has corroded through the inner section and that Panel needs attaching to the Mud-flaps bracket
So that was pretty easy, except, as I was welding that 45 degree mount plate in, the heat gets to what looks like a surface rusted inner arch, and it all falls to bits, meaning a bunch more plates and work to rebuild it
The issue here is parts of the area needing welding are directly under a load of Trim, Seat Belt and Insulation inside the Boot area, with one of the 2 third row Seats mounted here and I just know removing that lot will likely open a can of worms with snapped Seat Bolts etc etc, so I have to rethink this .......................
I certainly can't do it with the Vehicle raised up on the lift, because if it does go up in flames it will have it's rear end well alight by the time I realise and get the lift down to extinguish it, I've seen that happen at other Garages, and it dun'arf make a mess of an Interior / Wiring etc etc.
Here's what I did, which I don't recommend, but I am "Dangerous Dave" and have been doing this kind stuff for donkeys years, elf and sayftee don't exist here at Croft Tek Engineerin'
So I don't have a second person here to even sit in the back on "fire watch" ..................
I settle on a low down working height (kneeling), so I can weld a little at a time and keep standing up to check for smoke etc .............
I fold the seat away from the Corner Trim Panel, I also connect up the Hose Pipe to water trigger Gun, and remove the rear corner Vent and the Seat Belt capping Trim so I can squirt water down inside the area if really necessary ....
The area I have to squeeze into is between the Lift Leg and the front edge of the rear Hub / Brakes / Axle, so I can lean over the Brakes and weld the bloody inner Arch without being directly under it ....
Just like when I did the inner arches on the Silver SLK due to the complex array of double curves etc I have to do this section in several pieces. I can find replacement Panels for every other piece of the rear inner Arch but not this "outer rearward" inner section
Off I go, a few minor welding burns to myself plus some profuse workshop language later and it's now welded up and solid again, there was several nervous moments with a lot of smoke from inside the rear of the Truck, but no flames, no vehicles were set on fire during the making of this production ....
I just gotta mask it and Schutz this and the front bit and that's another 2 of the small welding jobs done
Not many jobs left to do now the biggest one will be pulling the Auto box out to sort that harmonic / vibration issue, which I suspect is a crack in either the Engine side Drive Plate or the Converter plate that bolts to it
I may leave that particular job until my Xmas shut down, or if it gets really bad / breaks beforehand.
I'll do the Watts Linkage if it's here for the weekend, if not I'll have a bash at the leak on the Diff Lock lever, might get time to do both if Watts arrives
I've arranged with the Gearbox seller to pick up that Auto Trans / Converter I bought on Sat 25th, might make him an offer for the rest of that Discovery, depending exactly what is left of it for spares and condition dependent not sure yet
I'll go get the Schutz done after lunch
So whilst waiting for the Watts Linkage, (on it's way now, hopefully be here by the w/e), I decide to do some small (ha ha) jobs on the D15KOE which involve a small amount of welding
....................It needs Mud-flap Bracket left rear, and Mud-flap Bracket right front, which I already bought.
The left rear looked to be easy, just weld on a 5" Long x 1.5" wide piece of steel with a 45 degree fold to the Rear inner arch lip and drill a couple of holes to bolt the new 'Fud-m'lap' bracket to, so I decide to tackle the front right first as the 3 studs holding it to the front floor pan are minging rotten and gonna snap, so my plan is remove a few bits of trim from the drivers footwell, fold back the carpet to prevent smoke / flames / fire
, then grind the nuts off the 3 floor studs and spot weld the bracket onto these, plus also there is a small triangular plate to weld on the front inner Sill's Body Mount bracket .................Therefore it seems the front will be harder than the rear and I always like to attack the hard bit of a few jobs first and finish with the easiest
...........................So I did the front in around an hour and a half, just gotta buff and Schutz that area now
Pixels :-
Front Mudflap Bracket spot welded to the 3 stud stubs on the floor pan ....
And the wee plate on the forward edge of the Body Mount ....
So that was easier than I thought, time to do the rear left
Workshop busy so it went on hold for a couple of days, and then I get to weld in my 45 degree mounting plate for the rear Flap Bracket ....
Also made a couple of aluminium repair plates as the lower rear (ally) 1/4 panel steady bolt has corroded through the inner section and that Panel needs attaching to the Mud-flaps bracket
So that was pretty easy, except, as I was welding that 45 degree mount plate in, the heat gets to what looks like a surface rusted inner arch, and it all falls to bits, meaning a bunch more plates and work to rebuild it
The issue here is parts of the area needing welding are directly under a load of Trim, Seat Belt and Insulation inside the Boot area, with one of the 2 third row Seats mounted here and I just know removing that lot will likely open a can of worms with snapped Seat Bolts etc etc, so I have to rethink this .......................
I certainly can't do it with the Vehicle raised up on the lift, because if it does go up in flames it will have it's rear end well alight by the time I realise and get the lift down to extinguish it, I've seen that happen at other Garages, and it dun'arf make a mess of an Interior / Wiring etc etc.
Here's what I did, which I don't recommend, but I am "Dangerous Dave" and have been doing this kind stuff for donkeys years, elf and sayftee don't exist here at Croft Tek Engineerin'
So I don't have a second person here to even sit in the back on "fire watch" ..................
I settle on a low down working height (kneeling), so I can weld a little at a time and keep standing up to check for smoke etc .............
I fold the seat away from the Corner Trim Panel, I also connect up the Hose Pipe to water trigger Gun, and remove the rear corner Vent and the Seat Belt capping Trim so I can squirt water down inside the area if really necessary ....
The area I have to squeeze into is between the Lift Leg and the front edge of the rear Hub / Brakes / Axle, so I can lean over the Brakes and weld the bloody inner Arch without being directly under it
....
Just like when I did the inner arches on the Silver SLK due to the complex array of double curves etc I have to do this section in several pieces. I can find replacement Panels for every other piece of the rear inner Arch but not this "outer rearward" inner section
Off I go, a few minor welding burns to myself plus some profuse workshop language later and it's now welded up and solid again, there was several nervous moments with a lot of smoke from inside the rear of the Truck, but no flames, no vehicles were set on fire during the making of this production
....
I just gotta mask it and Schutz this and the front bit and that's another 2 of the small welding jobs done
Not many jobs left to do now the biggest one will be pulling the Auto box out to sort that harmonic / vibration issue, which I suspect is a crack in either the Engine side Drive Plate or the Converter plate that bolts to it
I may leave that particular job until my Xmas shut down, or if it gets really bad / breaks beforehand.
I'll do the Watts Linkage if it's here for the weekend, if not I'll have a bash at the leak on the Diff Lock lever, might get time to do both if Watts arrives
I've arranged with the Gearbox seller to pick up that Auto Trans / Converter I bought on Sat 25th, might make him an offer for the rest of that Discovery, depending exactly what is left of it for spares and condition dependent not sure yet
I'll go get the Schutz done after lunch
Last edited:
Dave2302
Active Member
All is schutzed, time to go pull the masking, refit the Mudflaps to the Brackets then get the D15KOE off the lift and do some paying work
I've a Subaru which is up there with the worst Front Brake Judders I've ever experienced in any vehicle
The Subaru Outback (2016) Front Discs and Pads alone are way more expensive than the entire all 4 Discs, Pads, Calipers, Sliders etc that I fitted on D15KOE recently, and we don't know yet if it's gonna need Caliper(s) ................. ooofff
I've a Subaru which is up there with the worst Front Brake Judders I've ever experienced in any vehicle
The Subaru Outback (2016) Front Discs and Pads alone are way more expensive than the entire all 4 Discs, Pads, Calipers, Sliders etc that I fitted on D15KOE recently, and we don't know yet if it's gonna need Caliper(s) ................. ooofff
Dave2302
Active Member
That's these 2 Discovery Mudflaps and associated welding bitties all final finished
Rear Left ....
Right Front ....
The right Rear has already had the Bracket done not too long ago, and the inner Wheel-arch looks a whole lot better than the left side did, it's all solid so I will just clean that lot up and Schutz it soon ....
So I got the Scooby Doo Outback on the lift and pulled the front Brakes apart, Calipers are good, Discs / Pads and bitties are on the Van for a morning delivery, Bolts and Carriers cleaned and lubed now so that'll be done by lunchtime tommoz ....
I took the Disco out for a run to stock up on Bear Snax....
I just love driving this old girl now, aside from that slight harmonic vibe and the Watts Linkage play it is driving perfectly now, it is kinda rewarding for all the hours of work that have gone into it
Here's hoping the Watts gets here for the w/e
It's a love hate relationship this one, Love driving the old beastie, hate some of the work I've had to do to it, pees me off that someone can let a Vehicle get into that state, but on the other hand that's how I got it for bugger all
I'll stick D15KOE on the lift as soon as Scooby comes off and make a start on the T/Fer Box Oil Leak, as I do have the parts, (Gasket and Seal Kit) here for that job now
Chow for now it's Beer 'O Clock
Rear Left ....
Right Front ....
The right Rear has already had the Bracket done not too long ago, and the inner Wheel-arch looks a whole lot better than the left side did, it's all solid so I will just clean that lot up and Schutz it soon ....
So I got the Scooby Doo Outback on the lift and pulled the front Brakes apart, Calipers are good, Discs / Pads and bitties are on the Van for a morning delivery, Bolts and Carriers cleaned and lubed now so that'll be done by lunchtime tommoz ....
I took the Disco out for a run to stock up on Bear Snax....
I just love driving this old girl now, aside from that slight harmonic vibe and the Watts Linkage play it is driving perfectly now, it is kinda rewarding for all the hours of work that have gone into it
Here's hoping the Watts gets here for the w/e
It's a love hate relationship this one, Love driving the old beastie, hate some of the work I've had to do to it, pees me off that someone can let a Vehicle get into that state, but on the other hand that's how I got it for bugger all
I'll stick D15KOE on the lift as soon as Scooby comes off and make a start on the T/Fer Box Oil Leak, as I do have the parts, (Gasket and Seal Kit) here for that job now
Chow for now it's Beer 'O Clock
Dave2302
Active Member
Watts Linkage hasn't arrived yet Dispute and refund time if it isn't here tomorrow Which then leaves me all the naffin' hassle of sorting out another
I cracked on with the last remaining Oil Leak, which was Transfer Gearbox pouring out from somewhere above the Centre diff I suspected the Diff Lock Selector, but when I had the Front Prop off and outta the way, and had the wee Diff Lock selector in my hand, although the O rings weren't the best they didn't look that bad either
I changed them anyway
What I did see, now I had the front Propshaft off was that there was a very clean oily area around the (higher up) Hi / Low Gear selector so I removed that .......................
Yeah, you guessed, some "A-N-Other moron" had been here before, no Silicone Sealer, no Gasket no SFA
So I cleaned it all up and carefully reassembled it this morning and used a Gasket from the Kit plus a smear of Silicone on the Bolt Threads ....
I then went for a good long road test for approx 120 miles round trip, and just got back ..........................
Pleased to report I now own a unique Discovery
More like a Toyota
Not a trace of any Oil leaks
Pixels :-
Transfer Box....
Front Axle ....
Rear Axle ....
Engine ....
Not a solitary drip !! Nadah !! Zip !! ..............................
One happy bunny here
Of course, after me keep pulling into lay by's to check for leaks and found none, this did result in a quick visit to the local hostelry just around the corner from our hoose, so I apologise for any typo's etc etc
By the way, did ya'll here about the Leak in the Dartford Tunnel .......................................
It fell off the back of a Farmers Truck
TTFN
Dispute and refund time if it isn't here tomorrow Which then leaves me all the naffin' hassle of sorting out another I cracked on with the last remaining Oil Leak, which was Transfer Gearbox pouring out from somewhere above the Centre diff
I suspected the Diff Lock Selector, but when I had the Front Prop off and outta the way, and had the wee Diff Lock selector in my hand, although the O rings weren't the best they didn't look that bad either I changed them anyway
What I did see, now I had the front Propshaft off was that there was a very clean oily area around the (higher up) Hi / Low Gear selector so I removed that .......................
Yeah, you guessed, some "A-N-Other moron" had been here before, no Silicone Sealer, no Gasket no SFA
So I cleaned it all up and carefully reassembled it this morning and used a Gasket from the Kit plus a smear of Silicone on the Bolt Threads ....
I then went for a good long road test for approx 120 miles round trip, and just got back ..........................
Pleased to report I now own a unique Discovery
More like a Toyota
Not a trace of any Oil leaks
Pixels :-
Transfer Box....
Front Axle ....
Rear Axle ....
Engine ....
Not a solitary drip !! Nadah !! Zip !! ..............................
One happy bunny here
Of course, after me keep pulling into lay by's to check for leaks and found none, this did result in a quick visit to the local hostelry just around the corner from our hoose, so I apologise for any typo's etc etc
By the way, did ya'll here about the Leak in the Dartford Tunnel .......................................
It fell off the back of a Farmers Truck
TTFN
Attachments
Dave2302
Active Member
A little more Disco'ing in between jobs
Watts has not turned up so more hassle / waiting around etc etc etc
So the stage I have been at for a while now is going around and fixing a very big bunch of muppets bodges, but slowly slowly I'm getting there
It's stupid unseen stuff I keep finding, here's a good one ...................
When I was doing the welding front drivers side Mudflap Bracket / Body Mount area I had to pull the Drivers Foot-well Carpet up, I found that the floor / carpet was wet, but I couldn't find where it was coming in, then Sunday it rained a bit so I got under the dash with torch, drips directly from above the Brake Pedal area, couldn't see exactly where
So yesterday pm I pulled off the Trims around the Windscreen, partially removed the Bonnet, as l I'm on my own here I masking taped the corners and un bolted it from the Hinges then slid it forwards so I could get the Scuttle / HVAC Air Intake Trim out Wipers off, Scuttle / HVAC Air intake Trim off now I was expecting to find a rust hole and guess what I find, the muppets I keep mentioning have fitted a Wiper Motor .................
But get this, the Motor is mounted on a plate so the Motor itself is inside the Cars bulkhead, right above the Brake Pedal, linkage is external ........... Pics ....
See the 3 bolts by the Motor Crank in above pic, these hold the Motor, only guess what, the muppets must have snapped the old ones in the old Motor, and the 3 bolts here were slightly too long, meaning they tightened up the bolts but the Motor was still loose and not sealed ............. As ya can see, I trimmed the bolts, fitted 3 washers, and refitted / re- sealered and waxoyled / copper-slipped everything, firing it back together later as I'm gonna mask it all and give it a coat of Schutz under there too
I always thought the wipers were a touch clunky / jerky at the end of sweep but put it down to wear and tear as I didn't know this bit had been "professionally replaced" too
Watts has not turned up so more hassle / waiting around etc etc etc
So the stage I have been at for a while now is going around and fixing a very big bunch of muppets bodges, but slowly slowly I'm getting there
It's stupid unseen stuff I keep finding, here's a good one ...................
When I was doing the welding front drivers side Mudflap Bracket / Body Mount area I had to pull the Drivers Foot-well Carpet up, I found that the floor / carpet was wet, but I couldn't find where it was coming in, then Sunday it rained a bit so I got under the dash with torch, drips directly from above the Brake Pedal area, couldn't see exactly where
So yesterday pm I pulled off the Trims around the Windscreen, partially removed the Bonnet, as l I'm on my own here I masking taped the corners and un bolted it from the Hinges then slid it forwards so I could get the Scuttle / HVAC Air Intake Trim out
Wipers off, Scuttle / HVAC Air intake Trim off now I was expecting to find a rust hole and guess what I find, the muppets I keep mentioning have fitted a Wiper Motor .................But get this, the Motor is mounted on a plate so the Motor itself is inside the Cars bulkhead, right above the Brake Pedal, linkage is external ........... Pics ....
See the 3 bolts by the Motor Crank in above pic, these hold the Motor, only guess what, the muppets must have snapped the old ones in the old Motor, and the 3 bolts here were slightly too long, meaning they tightened up the bolts but the Motor was still loose and not sealed
............. As ya can see, I trimmed the bolts, fitted 3 washers, and refitted / re- sealered and waxoyled / copper-slipped everything, firing it back together later as I'm gonna mask it all and give it a coat of Schutz under there too I always thought the wipers were a touch clunky / jerky at the end of sweep but put it down to wear and tear as I didn't know this bit had been "professionally replaced" too
Rnicholson90
Active Member
This is what I'm going get when I do mine, potentially next year! I've already got rock sliders and steering gurad from him and the quality is good so I'd be confident with doing that. Great thread by the way!No upper Strap, I'm gonna need one, best I can find atm is genuine Land Rover at £109, not exactly high up the list atm, but it will get one before 26th February MOT
I might call Braith-Speed and see if they do one
If they don't they certainly should
I saw your post about your Rear Shock Mounts, to be honest when you get into it they aren't that bad to weld / rebuild with 3mm Plate, I did mine recently when I fitted the rear Springs and Shocks
I have decided to replate my Chassis all the way down to the Rear Radius Arm Bush Mount before next Test in February. That Chassis should last at least 2 years + !!
I have started a separate kitty, I'd like a full galv, but the other option for mine is a 2.2 metre Rear Chassis which comes as far forward as the original Air Compressor Mount, atm my Chassis seems very good forward from that point ..........................
I guess I'm just baulking at the thought of £3000 vs £1000, plus the Full Chassis is a lot more work, likely with further expenditure
https://dixonfabrication.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=87_92_137&product_id=169
Dave2302
Active Member
A busy week in the Workshop, but managed to do some D15KOE 'ing yesterday ...............................
Who all remembers the 1961 song "Aaat laaaast" ....
The long awaited Watts Linkage arrived ....
The initial joy was short lived and ya'll can imagine how blue the air was when I spotted this ....
Yup, he damaged the Sealing Boot on the Centre Bearing when pressing it in ...................
So after I phoned him and he told me "a lot of them come like that, it's only a dust seal, it doesn't do anything, blah blah yatta yatta"
After listening to the BS I have fitted it, I am not prepared to wait another 2- 3 months etc etc etc ....
Because I wasn't expecting to ever receive this, I bought a £50.00 used Watts last week, and have now ordered the Centre Bearing and 2 Trunnion Bushes to rebuild that centre Linkage piece, at which point the defective one will get swapped out and returned to Pillock Mc Pillock Face, with an Invoice from myself I have returned my Core Unit lets see how long it takes to get the Credit
At least the Centre bit will come off the Car real easy now as it's got new Bolts all well Copperslipped
For now I have injected a load more grease through that split / hole and smothered the outside of all 3 centre Bush / Bearings. It might see our Winter out at a push
I have to say I'm very un impressed, wish now that I had just bought a used Watts in the first place and re-built / painted it me-self ho hum, mucho "wiseness after the fact"
All that said, my Discovery is now driving like a dream, exactly the straight line stability I always knew it should have, because the "Tail of the Dog" is no longer wagging its "Head", and the clunking / knocking noises are now completely gone
So I also finally got around to some more of the "pre remap" tuning work .................
I've already done the restrictive Centre Silencer delete pipe, although I think I'm gonna fit a suitable diameter straight through Silencer to reduce the slight boom in the exhaust note, I'll be measuring that up in a while and ordering. So I fitted the EGR Removal Kit that I've had here a while ....
Now, the only other fault on this Disco is it has always had an Engine related harmonic / vibration, which after much deliberation, replacing Mounts etc I am convinced is related to the home brewed Isle Of Skye bodgery brigade who have used the P38 V8 Converter with a home brew Driveplate inside the Bell Housing !!
That other EBay sphincter (breaker in Glasgow) with the complete used Transmission / Converter I had agreed to buy has been messing me about, still hasn't removed it despite me wanting to go down today to get it ........................ He can shove it where the sun don't shine now
I'm seriously getting fed up with EBay messers, it won't be long before I delete the account completely
Plan now is, (may turn out twice as expensive at £810 + carriage), I am probably just gonna buy a fully rebuilt modified P38 V8 Converter upgrade from Ashcroft Transmissions, together with the correct Drive Plate, Bolts and Spacer kit and fit that ...............
https://www.ashcroft-transmissions....nverters/td5-heavy-duty-torque-converter.html
I'm going to phone Dave at Ashcroft, met him years back when I had the Auto Trans firm in Kent, and see if he will accept my existing V8 Converter, that way I will get a core refund of £200, but his site says they want stock TD5 Converter, which I don't have !!
Or .................. Because the Gearbox and Converter Lock Up shifts nice, no shudders etc and the Oil is not minging / full of debris (I took a sample yesterday), it means that the issue is likely just the bodged looking Drive Plate / Spacer on mine so I could just spend £160 on Ashcroft Spacer / Driveplate / Kit without a Converter and use the Converter I got ..............
https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/td5-heavy-duty-torque-converter-fitting-kit.html
Trouble is I will end up with the Car stuck on my lift if I do find it is needing a Converter for whatever reason .......................... Decisions decisions decisions
So anyway yesterday a new, unrelated Drive-line vibration appeared and got worse quite quickly, it is there mostly only under load ............................
Jeez, this D2 really is a "Neve-Rover" ....
Front Propshaft UJ in the double Cardon Joint breaking up ....
I have now spent another £122.58 which is for GKN Heavy Duty UJ's and related bitties
The Front Prop Kit contains 3 grease-able UJ's and the Cardon Bearing, to completely rebuild the front Prop, also the rear Prop has just one UJ, so I bought the H/D GKN grease-able UJ for that one, plus new Nuts and Bolts ....
Might as well do the whole sodding lot while I'm there
I'm gonna strip the Front Shaft off it in a while, and strip / clean it all ready for rebuilding, parts will be here Monday or Tuesday I can always engage the Centre Diff Lock and drive it as a RWD if needs be ......................
Pleased to report that since the Transfer Box repairs it has now covered 900 miles and there are still no signs of any Oil Leaks anywhere
Over and out
Who all remembers the 1961 song "Aaat laaaast" ....
The long awaited Watts Linkage arrived ....
The initial joy was short lived and ya'll can imagine how blue the air was when I spotted this ....
Yup, he damaged the Sealing Boot on the Centre Bearing when pressing it in ...................
So after I phoned him and he told me "a lot of them come like that, it's only a dust seal, it doesn't do anything, blah blah yatta yatta"
After listening to the BS I have fitted it, I am not prepared to wait another 2- 3 months etc etc etc
....
Because I wasn't expecting to ever receive this, I bought a £50.00 used Watts last week, and have now ordered the Centre Bearing and 2 Trunnion Bushes to rebuild that centre Linkage piece, at which point the defective one will get swapped out and returned to Pillock Mc Pillock Face, with an Invoice from myself
I have returned my Core Unit lets see how long it takes to get the Credit At least the Centre bit will come off the Car real easy now as it's got new Bolts all well Copperslipped
For now I have injected a load more grease through that split / hole and smothered the outside of all 3 centre Bush / Bearings. It might see our Winter out at a push
I have to say I'm very un impressed, wish now that I had just bought a used Watts in the first place and re-built / painted it me-self ho hum, mucho "wiseness after the fact"
All that said, my Discovery is now driving like a dream, exactly the straight line stability I always knew it should have, because the "Tail of the Dog" is no longer wagging its "Head", and the clunking / knocking noises are now completely gone
So I also finally got around to some more of the "pre remap" tuning work .................
I've already done the restrictive Centre Silencer delete pipe, although I think I'm gonna fit a suitable diameter straight through Silencer to reduce the slight boom in the exhaust note, I'll be measuring that up in a while and ordering. So I fitted the EGR Removal Kit that I've had here a while
....
Now, the only other fault on this Disco is it has always had an Engine related harmonic / vibration, which after much deliberation, replacing Mounts etc I am convinced is related to the home brewed Isle Of Skye bodgery brigade who have used the P38 V8 Converter with a home brew Driveplate inside the Bell Housing !!
That other EBay sphincter (breaker in Glasgow) with the complete used Transmission / Converter I had agreed to buy has been messing me about, still hasn't removed it despite me wanting to go down today to get it ........................ He can shove it where the sun don't shine now
I'm seriously getting fed up with EBay messers, it won't be long before I delete the account completely
Plan now is, (may turn out twice as expensive at £810 + carriage), I am probably just gonna buy a fully rebuilt modified P38 V8 Converter upgrade from Ashcroft Transmissions, together with the correct Drive Plate, Bolts and Spacer kit and fit that ...............
https://www.ashcroft-transmissions....nverters/td5-heavy-duty-torque-converter.html
I'm going to phone Dave at Ashcroft, met him years back when I had the Auto Trans firm in Kent, and see if he will accept my existing V8 Converter, that way I will get a core refund of £200, but his site says they want stock TD5 Converter, which I don't have !!
Or .................. Because the Gearbox and Converter Lock Up shifts nice, no shudders etc and the Oil is not minging / full of debris (I took a sample yesterday), it means that the issue is likely just the bodged looking Drive Plate / Spacer on mine so I could just spend £160 on Ashcroft Spacer / Driveplate / Kit without a Converter and use the Converter I got ..............
https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/td5-heavy-duty-torque-converter-fitting-kit.html
Trouble is I will end up with the Car stuck on my lift if I do find it is needing a Converter for whatever reason .......................... Decisions decisions decisions
So anyway yesterday a new, unrelated Drive-line vibration appeared and got worse quite quickly, it is there mostly only under load ............................
Jeez, this D2 really is a "Neve-Rover" ....
Front Propshaft UJ in the double Cardon Joint breaking up ....
I have now spent another £122.58 which is for GKN Heavy Duty UJ's and related bitties
The Front Prop Kit contains 3 grease-able UJ's and the Cardon Bearing, to completely rebuild the front Prop, also the rear Prop has just one UJ, so I bought the H/D GKN grease-able UJ for that one, plus new Nuts and Bolts
....
Might as well do the whole sodding lot while I'm there
I'm gonna strip the Front Shaft off it in a while, and strip / clean it all ready for rebuilding, parts will be here Monday or Tuesday
I can always engage the Centre Diff Lock and drive it as a RWD if needs be ......................Pleased to report that since the Transfer Box repairs it has now covered 900 miles and there are still no signs of any Oil Leaks anywhere
Over and out
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Dave2302
Active Member
Here is all the Front Prop UJ's all stripped out, nay dramas ....
Predictably, when I serviced it there was one UJ that didn't have a grease nipple, so I couldn't grease it, yeah that was the deceased one, the others weren't too bad at all, but I've bought the whole lot, so I will change 'em all
Here is the Front Prop component pieces, next job clean all the Waxoyl, Mud and Crud off it so it's ready for rebuild when the bits get here, and then give it a good coat of Black paint ....
I think it's time I had early shoot, a coupla beers and a Ruby later
Predictably, when I serviced it there was one UJ that didn't have a grease nipple, so I couldn't grease it, yeah that was the deceased one, the others weren't too bad at all, but I've bought the whole lot, so I will change 'em all
Here is the Front Prop component pieces, next job clean all the Waxoyl, Mud and Crud off it so it's ready for rebuild when the bits get here, and then give it a good coat of Black paint ....
I think it's time I had early shoot, a coupla beers and a Ruby later
Hi Dave, brilliant thread, thanks mate, I have a fair number of these jobs still to do to my D2 Commercial so your tips will help a lot. I will be starting a thread with mine soon but just to let you know I am also in the Highlands and have 3 "Donor D2's", 2 manual and 1 auto so if you are stuck for any parts give me a shout,
ps, here's a link to my D2 on Flickr
cheers, Roddy
ps, here's a link to my D2 on Flickr
cheers, Roddy
Dave2302
Active Member
Hi Roddy,
Thanks for the kind words, when you start your thread please post a linky here
Sorry, for some reason I can't see your pictures link
Where abouts in Highlands ? I am in Inverinate, near Eilean Donan Castle, IV40 8HB
I'm definitely interested in some Transmission parts off the Auto Trans one, definitely need a Torque Converter, would buy Auto Box too if that's what it took
Also a good Grey passenger seat base for my Driver Seat, (Im told they swap over and more chance of a decent passenger one lol) ...............
My Drivers Seat is the only bad bit in the Discovery, this is the Cloth pattern in mine just in case you have one ....
Cash waiting
A guy (messer) in Glasgow recently let me down on a complete Auto Box / Converter
I hate having to drive down into England which is where most parts seem to be sold
Thanks for the kind words, when you start your thread please post a linky here
Sorry, for some reason I can't see your pictures link
Where abouts in Highlands ? I am in Inverinate, near Eilean Donan Castle, IV40 8HB
I'm definitely interested in some Transmission parts off the Auto Trans one, definitely need a Torque Converter, would buy Auto Box too if that's what it took
Also a good Grey passenger seat base for my Driver Seat, (Im told they swap over and more chance of a decent passenger one lol) ...............
My Drivers Seat is the only bad bit in the Discovery, this is the Cloth pattern in mine just in case you have one ....
Cash waiting
A guy (messer) in Glasgow recently let me down on a complete Auto Box / Converter
I hate having to drive down into England which is where most parts seem to be sold
Hi Roddy,
Thanks for the kind words, when you start your thread please post a linky here
Where abouts in Highlands ? I am in Inverinate, near Eilean Donan Castle, IV40 8HB
I'm definitely interested in some Transmission parts off the Auto Trans one, definitely need a Torque Converter, would buy Auto Box too if that's what it took
Also a good Grey passenger seat base for my Driver Seat, (Im told they swap over and more chance of a decent passenger one lol) ...............
My Drivers Seat is the only bad bit in the Discovery, this is the Cloth pattern in mine just in case you have one ....
Cash waiting
A guy (messer) in Glasgow recently let me down on a complete Auto Box / Converter
I hate having to drive down into England which is where most parts seem to be sold
I'm in Bonar Bridge, the auto box and torque convertor are still in the D2 although the engine is out so easy to access. I think I have a seat but don't know if it's in good enough condition as it's still fitted and covered in loads of other plastic parts and I can't get near it to check at the moment. Give me a shout next time you are down this way and you can have a look. I've been trying to get time to strip the good parts of them all and scrap the rest but you know how time goes!! Am happy to do mates rates or swaps
Dave2302
Active Member
Lovely, thank you, and thanks for the phone call, it's good to find a fellow enthusiast who isn't far away, and likewise, if ever I can help you out I will
I just ran it past the boss (Mel lol), and could be on the cards for me to escape late this coming week or Saturday
I'll phone you nearer the time
I just ran it past the boss (Mel lol), and could be on the cards for me to escape late this coming week or Saturday
I'll phone you nearer the time
Dave2302
Active Member
Looks like I have finished off the last couple of inept botchery rectification jobs ..........................
When the Engine and Transmisson was fitted to this there was a load of Pipe Clips and odd Brackets to retain stuff from vibration, chafing and fatigue just left off ................
Slowly slowly I have done all these little niggles starting with the most important that would likely cause immediate damages, and was left with these 2 I sorted today ...............
I made a bracket to steady the two Transmission Cooler Lines, affixed it from one of the Engine Mount Bolts and to the clip that holds the Feed and Return Pipes together, it has also lifted them slightly so the Rubber Flexi Hose is no longer touching on the top of the Steering Box any more.
When I fitted the new Steering Box way back when, I had temporarily put a piece of rubber around this to prevent Chafing, job now sorted properly
....
Then there was the main metal Coolant Pipes / Manifold that runs around under the Engine at the front and should be attached to the Chassis at various points ........................
IIRC this had no bolts at all, so I put most of them in way back, but there was one that should secure to the Chassis Engine Mount Bracket which required some careful drilling as the Bolt was just left snapped off ....
Firstly I carefully cut off the bolt stub so it was flush using the reciprocating saw ....
Then used the right angle drillermabob to drill through the Pipes bracket and the Chassis Bracket and attached it with an M6 Bolt and Nyloc Nut
....
That's another 2 jobbies jobbed
The list of "to do" is seriously decreasing atm, which is a good thing as it's heading in the correct direction
Time Dave was not 'ere
When the Engine and Transmisson was fitted to this there was a load of Pipe Clips and odd Brackets to retain stuff from vibration, chafing and fatigue just left off
................Slowly slowly I have done all these little niggles starting with the most important that would likely cause immediate damages, and was left with these 2 I sorted today ...............
I made a bracket to steady the two Transmission Cooler Lines, affixed it from one of the Engine Mount Bolts and to the clip that holds the Feed and Return Pipes together, it has also lifted them slightly so the Rubber Flexi Hose is no longer touching on the top of the Steering Box any more.
When I fitted the new Steering Box way back when, I had temporarily put a piece of rubber around this to prevent Chafing, job now sorted properly
Then there was the main metal Coolant Pipes / Manifold that runs around under the Engine at the front and should be attached to the Chassis at various points ........................
IIRC this had no bolts at all, so I put most of them in way back, but there was one that should secure to the Chassis Engine Mount Bracket which required some careful drilling as the Bolt was just left snapped off ....
Firstly I carefully cut off the bolt stub so it was flush using the reciprocating saw ....
Then used the right angle drillermabob to drill through the Pipes bracket and the Chassis Bracket and attached it with an M6 Bolt and Nyloc Nut
That's another 2 jobbies jobbed
The list of "to do" is seriously decreasing atm, which is a good thing as it's heading in the correct direction
Time Dave was not 'ere
