My understanding is that the FL1 was supposed to go in 2004 but had to be stretched out to give Ford time to Ford-ify the FL2.
Or was it LR-ify the Ford EUCD platform, on which it's built. The FL2 is basically an S-MAX, Galaxy, and Mondeo underneath the LR body panels.
 
Where to start...?
Finish repairs to the tailgate. Belt change and fluids. New front number plate.
Then should be MOTable in theory.
Then I can worry about the 4WD bits which are currently spread out on my garage floor (prop, vcu, diff, rear driveshafts).
Going to put new oil seals in the diff, check the CVs etc.
So next week then. :p
 
It's even the right colour!
IMG_20170206_194142.jpg IMG_20170206_194148.jpg IMG_20170206_194157.jpg
 
So posting your pictures on LZ and facecloth, that's why you haven't got enough time to fix your big un'
Or are you practising on the model so you get it right?
I can just imagine you, sat on the carpet making Brum Brum noises:)
Mike

Here Here!

Extracts one's finger David and crack on the baying public audience have duly spoken:D
 
Sorry chaps.
I have a growing collection of die-cast freelanders that bring a smile to my face.
Won't get much done this weekend as, if the weather is ok, I'll be helping a local member of this site to heft the bell housing back into his Td4 after changing the slave cylinder. I'll just be there for extra weight and encouragement though!
 
Isn't it alloy?
Sorry missed this one.
I used underseal to stop corrosion and to stop the 2 different metal types reacting with each other, both on the wheel carrier and the door handle. Just a thin coat and carefully painted on, looks nice and is easy to patch up if a bit wears off.
Mike
 
When refitting the tailgate door handle is it worth a bead of sealant around the inside of the poorly made rubber seal to try and stop/slow the recurrence of rot? Or is the rot caused by the water getting past the poorly made window seal?
 
When refitting the tailgate door handle is it worth a bead of sealant around the inside of the poorly made rubber seal to try and stop/slow the recurrence of rot? Or is the rot caused by the water getting past the poorly made window seal?
I did put a bead around mine which does seem to have helped.
I was looking at it the other day and it does look as if it's starting to come away again. Only a couple of mil, which isn't bad as I refurbished it about 5 year's ago.
It'll be interesting to see what it looks like when I pull it off. Don't think it will be this weekend, as snow is forecast around here, think you'll be getting wet round your way, so take a brolly to stand under.
Mike
 
Sorry chaps.
I have a growing collection of die-cast freelanders that bring a smile to my face.
Won't get much done this weekend as, if the weather is ok, I'll be helping a local member of this site to heft the bell housing back into his Td4 after changing the slave cylinder. I'll just be there for extra weight and encouragement though!

Making tea you mean :D
 
If I remember aright, it's also the Discovery Sport's and (in a much modified form) the Evoque's platform, together with a Jaguar and the Volvo S60. That EUCD thingy certainly gets about.

boils down to cost same reason you'll find other cars are similar with shared platforms

fiat 500/ford ka
'07 on corsa/grande punto
mk3 mondeo/x type jag
new mx5 /fiat 124 spyder
ford focus/ volvo v40/50

loads of em do it
 
I don't think I'm qualified. Need to start on the basics and work up to that.

Ah apprentice tea maker

back when i were a youth i was asked during my apprenticeship if friction created heat... to which i responded of course..

go fook the kettle till it boils then lad came the reply !!:eek:
 
Cleaned up the spare wheel holder and primed it.
A test with the rattle-can Buzzweld CIO has shown it to be a bit dull for use on this so I think I'll go with the stone chip idea- I like that idea. Or U-Pol satin black....
 

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