And so the electrical fun begins.
No rear brake lights (mid level). No supply to either side it seems. I would blame fuse F2 but I do have the high level rear brake light.
Where are the most common failures in this cabling?
 
Now, why don't my bumper level lights work on the off side?
20160806_102115_zpscxy6i2gl.jpg

20160806_102108_zpsg9abdhav.jpg

Ahhhh. Only one cable and no bulb holders. Grrrrrrrrrrr.
 
This is a very silly question. Bear in mind I have never actually driven this (or any) pre facelift freelander....

The fog light button on mine is non-latching. Is that correct or is it, like most other bits, crocked....? I ask as mine doesn't actually seem to do anything of value :rolleyes:
 
Trying to swap my rear brake cylinders as at leat one is seized solid.
Is there some chicken-sacrifice required to get the union off the cylinder? They son't seem to be an exact size for my metric or imperial spanners and the unions themselves seem to be made of fudge. They don't want to shift and they'll be cylindrical soon.
I guess it will mean making a new pipe. That's OK as long as I know all the sizes and flare types (and have a few practice runs).
 
When I bled my rears I had that horrible feeling of soft metal being rounded as I tried to loosen the nipples. I got a mulgrip/long handle pliers on it real tight and biting into the metal to crack them, then used a spanner. Dunno what access is like on the union for that.
 
I have just realised I'm too incompetent/impatient so this is the new plan.
  1. I bought a pair of pipes pre-bent.
  2. Cut the current pipe to get the cylinder out.
  3. New cylinder in, build up the brakes and get the drum on.
  4. When the pipe comes. but the current pipe near the union with the flexi and get a 6 sided socket on it.
  5. New pipe on, bleed, wheel on, happiness.
  6. Repeat on other side but much quicker.
  7. Refurb old cylinder as a spare.
My grippiest grips just ate the current union.
 
what you need is some Irwin vice grips, in my humble opinion no other grips come close. They have got me out of many a sticky situation. I have had several makes, thrown most in the bin and gone back to these. its a must have tool for a diy mechanic
image.png
 
Brake unions are pretty soft and if they are that corroded then probably better to replace them anyway
 
GrumpyGel said:
When I bled my rears I had that horrible feeling of soft metal being rounded as I tried to loosen the nipples. I got a mulgrip/long handle pliers on it real tight and biting into the metal to crack them, then used a spanner. Dunno what access is like on the union for that.
Click to expand...

As montgomery scott would say " how many times do you have to tell you to use the right tool for the right job!" :D

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/spanners-wrenches/halfords-professional-flare-spanner
 
Right. For reference flare spanners seem to come in 9/11mm and 10/12mm. This one pipe requires 10 and 11mm, meaning that 15cm of pipe requires you to buy two spanners.:eek:
All sorted. New cylinders on, brakes rebuilt and drums on.
Fitted 4x wheels with Cooper Discoverer AT (barely worn) which I got from my local scrappy. Got wheels + tyres (x5) for less then the price of 2 tyres.
Lights all fixed too, so should be MOT-able soon :cool:
Other back brake to rebuild but will be a lot easier now with tools + knowledge.
Tailgate handle to sort + drivers internal door handle and then we'll see. Have her out of the garage and spin her round tomorrow. Can't wait!
 
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