gary has

Member

• Jun 9, 2017

• #1

Help, I've a 2003 TD5, over the last week the hand brake, hill decent, and abs lights came on, but when I turned her off and restarted all went out, all week everything has been fine, until today, just round the corner from home, the dreaded three bongs went off, got home to find, handbrake, hill decent, abs, td5, and the rear lift lights on, now I've heard of the three amigos, but didn't expect their friends to turn up to the party as well !!!! Any ideas, I was wondering if it has anything to do with the rear height sensors?

 

neilly

Well-Known Member

• Jun 9, 2017

• #2

gary has said:

td5,

Click to expand...

what light is this?

Have you got diagnostics?

Cheers

 

gary has

Member

• Jun 9, 2017

• #3

No I haven't, it just came up after the bad rain last week, thinking I may have to take it to my garage, not sure if he can do the diagnostics though.

 

neilly

Well-Known Member

• Jun 9, 2017

• #4

Rain...............Mmmmm

Does it have wet foot wells? have you checked the fuse box and IDM for dampness?

Make sure he can do diagnostics for it properly, the D2 TD5 is not fuly OBDII compliant. Or you could ask around, a lot of people have the correct kit to use personally.

Cheers

 

gary has

Member

• Jun 9, 2017

• #5

No it's all dry inside, but it does look a high at the back, that's what made me think the rear hight sensors, yea that's what worries me wether or not he's got the right diagnostics, just all came back all of a sudden today, the rain was last week.

 

sierrafery

Well-Known Member

• Jun 9, 2017

• #6

All those warnings(except that "td5" which you should tell which is but might be also related) used to come on if there's a major feed issue to the SLABS system, height sensors would affect only the SLS ... the only thing you can do without tester is to check in the engine bay fusebox fusible link FL11 and swap relay R10(ABS) with R8(heated screen for test) also check fuse F28 interior fusebox.... for more than these you need dedicated tester

 

gary has

Member

• Jun 9, 2017

• #7

I'll check those in the morning, if no joy, I'll try and find someone to test it. Cheers guys

 

MJI

Well-Known Member

• Jun 10, 2017

• #8

You need diagnostics.

Worth every penny buying your own

 

gary has

Member

• Jun 12, 2017

• #9

I've had it checked, it looks like it's the frount near side abs sensor, now I've looked on line and was going to just have the sensor replaced, but seen on line that I should replace the complete hub, there is nothing wrong with the hub as it stands, ( passed its mot, first time about 3 weeks ago) so no play on any of the wheels. My garage will happily replace the sensor, or the hub, not to keen on the new hub option due to cost, what is the best option ?

 

sierrafery

Well-Known Member

• Jun 12, 2017

• #10

The ABS sensor would not bring up the SLS related warnings too nor a height sensor the ABS warnings as i already said... how did you conclude that the ABS sensor is at fault?

 

gary has

Member

• Jun 12, 2017

• #11

The height sensor warning light decided to go out, don't ask why just did (hasn't popped it head up all weekend), so I was just left with the brake warning light (red), ABS light, hill decent light , traction control, found a mate with a diagnostic reader, and the only fault shown was the near side frount ABS sensor, did seem to make some sence, no?

 

sierrafery

Well-Known Member

• Jun 12, 2017

• #12

If only those 4 amigos are on now then yes, it can be a sensor issue and maybe you have a weak battery or loose clamp which brought up the whole lot previously especially if no SLS related fault code is stored

 

gary has

Member

• Jun 12, 2017

• #13

Thanks sierrafery, I'll double check the battery, and conections, failing that do you think just a sensor replacement will be okay, or should it be a complete hub

 

sierrafery

Well-Known Member

• Jun 12, 2017

• #14

it depends on the live readings and fault code, if the fault code was with "air gap.... " it's probably the hub but to rule out a sensor stationary live input readings are necessary cos if the sensor is bad the stationary input of it is bad too, if the fault occurs only while driving it's again the hub more suspect, it can be a play in the reluctor ring without noticeable play in the wheel .... if you dont have access to diagnostics again unplug that sensor and measure resistance in it's plug, it should be between 950 - 1100 Ohm if it's good and jiggle it's wire while you measure to make sure it's not some interruption in the wiring

 

gary has

Member

• Jun 12, 2017

• #15

Thanks sierrafery, I'll get it checked again on the diagnostic, pretty sure there was no mention of air gap, and the lights are on all the time, when stationary and moving, also it could be like you said dodgy wiring, it was fine up until the heavy rain, mind that could just be coincidence.