Mad McNiff
Member
Yes set it to DC. I'll have another go with another meter to see if that's the problem. Might be operator error
I prefer to use a test lamp when checking earths and 12 volts as a DVM can show voltage on a point where due perhaps to corrosion there is next to no current flow possible. A 21 watt lamp will only fully light with a good connection.Yes set it to DC. I'll have another go with another meter to see if that's the problem. Might be operator error
Speed/ABS sensor outputs are visible in live data on diagnostics.Hi all
I have finally got round to doing the tests that gstuart told me to carry out.
The results for the Ohms tests 6->14 = 60.6
3->11 =44.4
As for the Voltage tests they were as follows 6->4 =1.68V
6->5 =2.44V
14->4= 1.27V
14->5=1.27
6->14=1.16
If you could please give me any information these relate to them that would be great
I have to do some work on the RR ( replace the fuel tank cradle, rear bushes and clean up the chassis) , so I will check the modules and rear right wheel speed sensor as I go.
Is there a test you can do to see the speed sensor is working?
Thanks again for all your help
Gary
Yes, or all 4 wheels off the ground on axle standsThanks for the information. I take it it has to be driven when doing it?
Thanks
Gary
It's shows just how bad the design of the electronics is. A big thanks for reporting the fix.All
Just to close out the above problems as it is now solved.
A the real time fault suggested it was the sensor. It did come back as did the suspension faults etc.
I redid a diagnostic scan and found the common thread running through all the modules was the wheel sensor.
I replaced it with a new Bosch sensor and the fault disappeared again.
All the other faults went with it and have not returned.
It just goes to show how all the systems are linked on these cars and a small fault can produce a very worrying result.
Thanks again to all that help me sort this out I am very grateful to you.
Regards
Gary