Hiddenpower

New Member
Hi guys, I have an issue for my 90 which is coming round for MOT time. I have had substantial rot on the A-Frame Crossmember and have since chopped it out and tacked it back in place and put the A-Frame back with a new ball joint to see that I've got it right.

Upon driving I can hear clunking which I assume is due to the fact that I've not set it right. I made it 42" dead on to the top-rear edge of the A-Frame crossmember from the back of the rear crossmember. I'd like to know if anyone has any more info for me cos the manual shows nothing about where this section sits on the chassis. Could anyone provide me with dimensions from a known, sound chassis so I can compare it to where I'm at at the moment?

If I can't sort this then I am looking very likely to be scrapping it as I can't afford a new chassis to get her moving again since I am looking at leaving my current location for a new job. Would very much like to take her with me as she has served me faithfully for a long time now.

Yours despairingly

-Hiddenpower
 
Jack it up, put stands under the chassis, remove the springs and run the axle through its travel then you can find any binding etc
 
So put the stands on the Rails instead of the axle? I'd still appreciate confirmation of where I think the crossmember should be, just to ensure that everything is present and correct. Also will I need spring compressors? this would be a problem as I don't own or have access to any.

I assume to run the axle through it's travel I will need to put the axle on blocks as well? Where should I expect binding, if any? My suspicion is that the binding is infact coming from the rear prop if my geometries are out since it will be making the wrong angle from the transfer box.
 
you don't need spring compressors, just jack it up high enough, get the axle stands under the chassis, then drop the axle down and you'll have loads of room to get the springs out :) (watch you don't put it up so high, then drop the axle down so low that you stress the brake flexi-pipe to the top of the axle!
 
I've confirmed that the crossmember is aligned and straight but do you think it is possible the A-Frame mountings were shifted by repairs from warping?
If so I am considering chopping the existing mountings and fabricating some plate and bosses to relaign it all. Is this permissible MOT wise?
 
Roger that I shall get some blocks of wood under the axle just incase. Do I need to demount the shockers too or will they be okay with a bit of extra travel? Am I to assume this is about strategically de-stressing the suspension components?

UPDATE: I have dropped the axles, can find no binding once I do. I assume lowing the axle has changed the A-Frame/Prop angle to such a degree that there's no sticking anymore.
 
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Awesome news guys. I dropped that axle which gave me more room to get in (I also chopped the exhaust cos it was gonna go anyway). I had a look around with a straightedge and realigned it all with some draw clamps. Put in some tie bars and rebuilt it with the crossmember in the proper place. No more clunking.

Now all I need is an exhaust. The old 1st silencer was okay but the rest was rotted. Any recommendations? (in east lancs)
 
exhaust prob

use flexible exhaust tube for a side exit

with a boy racer chrome tail peace

see treweys easy and good think his lasted 3 or more years
 
Any pics? I am primarily a visual learner so it would help out. Also I think my rear suspension needs to be reset after I dropped the axle, any suggestions? or should I just let my mechanic take care of it?
 
Hey guys. So I passed MOT on Friday 13th of April. She is now up and running again and bar a couple of new belts and a nice new Rad she's going good at taking me the 20 miles to work every day without complaint. I just wanted to say thanks for all your help.
 

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