Kev Willaim

Kev Willaim

New Member
Hi there wonder if anyone could shed any advice?
Got an 2000 W td5 disco2 nd its doing my head in :mad:
Start from the beginning. Was running fine parked it up next day went out nothing just spinning over turns out the crank sensor had failed acording to mr AA man.
fitted new one from euro carparts job sorted then few monts later this is where it starts to get interesting when you turn the key to start(wait for glow plug light to go off) the fuel pump sounds like a screaming cat, but starts straight away first turn.
Fitted new fuel filter when servicing it still the same squeel when starting.
Now when the temp starts to ride even a tiny bit the car cuts out some times it will start straight away other times you have to wait 10-15minutes before it will start again.
Sometimes when it starts it runs fine but then other times its like its restricted nd wont rev then cuts out again.
Its had an egr delete done to it.
My mech friend said change the airflow meter, done this still no difference,
Also new air filter fitted.
Also had the wastgate actuator free’d off as it was siezed up.
He did say their was an overboost on the computer when he connected it to his code reader, not sure if this had anything to do with it.
At all.
Oh yeah and the injector loom has been reniewed too as it was contaminated with oil,
no oil ingress in the ecu.
Any help would be great as im running out of ideas now
Thanks.
 
I would suggest that you get it plugged into a Nanocom or similar and have a look at live data to make sure all is ok first, then clear all faults and go for a drive and the read faults again. This way you get rid of historic stored faults. It should show something up. The MAF (Mass Air Flow) you changed, what make was it? The ONLY ones worth using are the genuine Land Rover ones, even the VDO/Siemens are different, despite the fact they make them for LR. By getting a plug-in you will be able to see what reading you are getting from the MAF, should be about 50-60 at tickover, rising to over 600 at about 3000rpm, as well as the other sensors, and if you are getting an overboost it will show up on live data.

Tony
 
Hi tony thanks for the reply.
The airflow meter was an landrover replacement one i fitted.
Also i forgot to add when stationary if you rev over 3000 rpm the engine light comes on then the engine cuts out.
I will get it put on the computer again nd see what comes back.

Thanks for the reply and heads up
 
Hello mate ,as above ,but have you tried substituting a knowngood crank sensor,I know you put a new one on but they have been know to fail early and play up when the engine is warm.Just a thought
 
Hi joemac thanks for the reply i was just talking to one of my neighbors and he was saying he had the same problem with a crank sensor failing on him from euro carparts after 2years so it could be a dodgy sensor like you said :( even know mines only been fitted just under a month(just looked up on my receipts) think ill buy an original landrover one and see what happens.
If nothing comes back off the computer hookup first.
Thanks again for the replys i really appreciate ito_O
 
Kev Willaim said:
Hi joemac thanks for the reply i was just talking to one of my neighbors and he was saying he had the same problem with a crank sensor failing on him from euro carparts after 2years so it could be a dodgy sensor like you said :( even know mines only been fitted just under a month(just looked up on my receipts) think ill buy an original landrover one and see what happens.
If nothing comes back off the computer hookup first.
Thanks again for the replys i really appreciate ito_O
Click to expand...
It was just an idea for a simple fix if it cures it great,you don't need look any further,if not at least it's one thing eliminated.I always use genuine LR parts for critical bits to cut the risk of early conking out,worth a bit more money to be sure
 
Hellastony said:
I would suggest that you get it plugged into a Nanocom or similar and have a look at live data to make sure all is ok first, then clear all faults and go for a drive and the read faults again. This way you get rid of historic stored faults. It should show something up. The MAF (Mass Air Flow) you changed, what make was it? The ONLY ones worth using are the genuine Land Rover ones, even the VDO/Siemens are different, despite the fact they make them for LR. By getting a plug-in you will be able to see what reading you are getting from the MAF, should be about 50-60 at tickover, rising to over 600 at about 3000rpm, as well as the other sensors, and if you are getting an overboost it will show up on live data.

Tony
Click to expand...
My MAF, L/R factory-fitted on 2003 Disco 2 Td5 is a Siemens - noticed a couple of days ago when I gave it a clean (not playing up but just decided to clean it). Wonder what makes L/R have used - Siemens and Bosch?
 
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LR is using Siemens/VDO but those which become "genuine LR" are better than the OEM, the price diffefrence is not only a green oval label on the box, it's more than that...i obsessively keep saying that as i know 100% sure
 
sierrafery said:
LR is using Siemens/VDO but those which become "genuine LR" are better than the OEM, the price diffefrence is not only a green oval label on the box, it's more than that...i obsessively keep saying that as i know 100% sure
Click to expand...

They have a top-secret panel of 16 Vestal Virgins* who hand-pick the best of the Siemens and VDO MAFs and then stick the little green oval label on them thereby designating them as genuine Land Rover - of course the price has to be bumped up significantly as those Vestal Virgins don't come cheap! It is rumoured they have acquired so much money they will soon be leaving for the coast!*

* Apologies to Keith Reid and Procol Harum.
 
Intestinalworm said:
They have a top-secret panel of 16 Vestal Virgins* who hand-pick the best of the Siemens and VDO MAFs and then stick the little green oval label on them thereby designating them as genuine Land Rover
Click to expand...
it seems that i have to tell the following story on all the forums i'm registered maybe it will be clear once and for all:
members of my family worked/are working for an automotive parts manufacturer(i'm not allowed to tell it's name) so i know exactly how it is from inside regarding some parts, those made for let's say BMW to become genuine BMW are made on a dedicated band and in some cases those which fail the BMW imposed requirements but still ISO compliant within accepted limits are sold as OEM not binned but there is another band which makes the same parts using lower quality/cheaper feedstocks which are sold cheaper as OEM's from the beginning, even the personnel who is working on the genuine sections is better paid and it's considered a promotion to get there, that's why Genuine is more expensive and this is the same for LR or any other make too... i made tests with NEW genuine LR MAF and OEM(aka genuine VDO/Siermens) on my own vehicle and other's and the readings were different even though both are made by VDO the casing's finishing is different too, aftermarket for LR is considered everything which is not genuine LR so that genuine VDO is still aftermarket IMO, it's a false myth that Genuine LR is an expensive OEM and you pay only the brand, my statement is that OEM is an expensive aftermarket made by a reputable manufacturer who makes the genuine parts for a specific vehicle builder too, i am 100% sure and nobody can convince me the opposite


IMO it's a confusion in terms mixing OEM, OE and Genuine which is highly exploited by part suppliers.

Make your own tests and compare any expensive Genuine LR part with the same manufacturer's cheaper OEM and i'm sure that in 90% of cases you'll clearely see the difference
 
sierrafery said:
it seems that i have to tell the following story on all the forums i'm registered maybe it will be clear once and for all:
members of my family worked/are working for an automotive parts manufacturer(i'm not allowed to tell it's name) so i know exactly how it is from inside regarding some parts, those made for let's say BMW to become genuine BMW are made on a dedicated band and in some cases those which fail the BMW imposed requirements but still ISO compliant within accepted limits are sold as OEM not binned but there is another band which makes the same parts using lower quality/cheaper feedstocks which are sold cheaper as OEM's from the beginning, even the personnel who is working on the genuine sections is better paid and it's considered a promotion to get there, that's why Genuine is more expensive and this is the same for LR or any other make too... i made tests with NEW genuine LR MAF and OEM(aka genuine VDO/Siermens) on my own vehicle and other's and the readings were different even though both are made by VDO the casing's finishing is different too, aftermarket for LR is considered everything which is not genuine LR so that genuine VDO is still aftermarket IMO, it's a false myth that Genuine LR is an expensive OEM and you pay only the brand, my statement is that OEM is an expensive aftermarket made by a reputable manufacturer who makes the genuine parts for a specific vehicle builder too, i am 100% sure and nobody can convince me the opposite


IMO it's a confusion in terms mixing OEM, OE and Genuine which is highly exploited by part suppliers.

Make your own tests and compare any expensive Genuine LR part with the same manufacturer's cheaper OEM and i'm sure that in 90% of cases you'll clearely see the difference
Click to expand...

The MAF in my Disco 2 (installed in the factory as a new vehicle off the production line) is labelled Siemens - no mention (stamp) of Land Rover. If I bought a Genuine Land Rover MAF now in a box I'm assuming the actual MAF would still be marked as Siemens (or VDO)? Having worked for a large brewing/alcoholic drinks company for many years I was intimate with all the marketing skulduggery that went on! Large batches of storage beer (blended or otherwise) for instance that met the top-end quality specs would go into a premium brand bottle, but if there was more than enough of this particular slightly "higher" quality storage beer then it would also go into the lower-priced everyday brand bottle (bit simplified but the general modus operandi). However, the average punter doesn't really know anyway, and in any case, subsequent pasteurisation (sometimes botched) and poor storage will damage the beer anyway! I understand the omnipotent power of the label/brand! Experiment: Have a dinner party and decant a cheaper wine into a more expensive bottle and vice versa (better still, put the same wine in an expensive and a cheaper bottle - don't make the difference too stark though) without anyone knowing - you'll get a laugh!:cool:
 
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yes it will be marked Siemens or VDO as it's made by them the way i explained but if it's genuine LR it comes in a LR labeled box, if you are very curious order a cheaper OEM aka genuine Siemens/VDO one too and compare them... or you can believe me as i compared them in many ways :cool:
 
sierrafery said:
yes it will be marked Siemens or VDO as it's made by them the way i explained but if it's genuine LR it comes in a LR labeled box, if you are very curious order a cheaper OEM aka genuine Siemens/VDO one too and compare them... or you can believe me as i compared them in many ways :cool:
Click to expand...

So I guess on the production line they took the Siemens MAF out of the Land Rover Genuine Parts box and installed it in the vehicle. I should've asked for that box!:p
 
sierrafery said:
it seems that i have to tell the following story on all the forums i'm registered maybe it will be clear once and for all:
members of my family worked/are working for an automotive parts manufacturer(i'm not allowed to tell it's name) so i know exactly how it is from inside regarding some parts, those made for let's say BMW to become genuine BMW are made on a dedicated band and in some cases those which fail the BMW imposed requirements but still ISO compliant within accepted limits are sold as OEM not binned but there is another band which makes the same parts using lower quality/cheaper feedstocks which are sold cheaper as OEM's from the beginning, even the personnel who is working on the genuine sections is better paid and it's considered a promotion to get there, that's why Genuine is more expensive and this is the same for LR or any other make too... i made tests with NEW genuine LR MAF and OEM(aka genuine VDO/Siermens) on my own vehicle and other's and the readings were different even though both are made by VDO the casing's finishing is different too, aftermarket for LR is considered everything which is not genuine LR so that genuine VDO is still aftermarket IMO, it's a false myth that Genuine LR is an expensive OEM and you pay only the brand, my statement is that OEM is an expensive aftermarket made by a reputable manufacturer who makes the genuine parts for a specific vehicle builder too, i am 100% sure and nobody can convince me the opposite


IMO it's a confusion in terms mixing OEM, OE and Genuine which is highly exploited by part suppliers.

Make your own tests and compare any expensive Genuine LR part with the same manufacturer's cheaper OEM and i'm sure that in 90% of cases you'll clearely see the difference
Click to expand...
Having has a transport contract for may years with seimens and had unoficial tours of their plants here and in Germany I can say without doubt you are indeed 100 % right in everything you say.No idea why anyone would argue with you and the real world results back you up completely
 
Joemac434 said:
Having has a transport contract for may years with seimens and had unoficial tours of their plants here and in Germany I can say without doubt you are indeed 100 % right in everything you say.No idea why anyone would argue with you and the real world results back you up completely
Click to expand...
Many thanks for that confirmation.
icon_thumbup.gif
 
Ok so quick update so far with massive fingers crossed.
Had it on the comp/code reader nd reset all the shopping list of codes,faults went for a 45 minute 2 mile drive it cutout around 20-25 times :mad::mad: getting really anoyed with it limped it back to the garage connected it back up again and it turns out it was the engine crank sensor.
Replaced with a genuine landrover one and also had to repair the wire connector too as the pins had came out of the plug apparently a regular fault with them according to landrover???
Replaced both and car seams to be fine all problems seam to be gone touch wood massive fingers crossed.
Well i managed to drive it for 2 hours after fitting it nd it never cut out :D

Heres hoping its solved it all.still a bit unsure how it first said about the overboosting though.
But its working.....
Thanks for all the replys and help
 
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