Richy Payne

Member

• Mar 6, 2022

• #1

Afternoon all, hopefully a bit of help and advice to get my 2002 D2 TD5 going again.
Driving home a while ago the engine cut out and wouldn't start. Being without my Nanocom at the time I tried changing the crank sensor (no change) and then the injector loom (still no change).
Got my Nanocom working (long story of PICNIC problem) and the error code I am getting is "3,5 Driver demand problem 1 (Logged High)".
I have changed the throttle pedal for a known functioning one - still get the same error. If I clear the error and crank her there is a momentary kick as though she's about to fire but then she just reverts to cranking and the error code returns.
Any suggestions for next steps folks?
Thanks in advance, Richy

 

sierrafery

Well-Known Member

• Mar 7, 2022

• #2

Hi. Can you hear the pump running? I've seen driver demant code triggered by low fuel pressure, make this test if the pump is buzzing: Check Td5 fuel pump HP if it passes i'm affraid that there is a wiring issue somewhere

 

Last edited: Mar 7, 2022

Richy Payne

Member

• Mar 12, 2022

• #3

sierrafery said:

Hi. Can you hear the pump running? I've seen driver demant code triggered by low fuel pressure, make this test if the pump is buzzing: Check Td5 fuel pump HP if it passes i'm affraid that there is a wiring issue somewhere

Click to expand...

 

Richy Payne

Member

• Mar 12, 2022

• #4

Thanks Sierrafery for the response and guidance. I can hear the pump but I do need to perform a pressure test (I need some kit for this - any suggestions on adequate kit for the job?). Getting to grips with using the nanocom so I can confirm the throttle voltages seem to operate correctly and the crank sensor seems to be spitting out a result when I crank (c200rpm), so sensor wise I guess things look ok. I took a look in the ECM and there is nothing in the way of oil penetration and nothing obvious popped on the board. Added to that the nano com reports the ECM as "robust" so I'm hopeful that's ok too.

Daft question - the immobiliser isn't likely to have a negative impact is it?

Thanks in advance for your help, guidance and insights

All the best
Richy

 

sierrafery

Well-Known Member

• Mar 12, 2022

• #5

Hi, the immobiiser won't let it crank at all, 200rpm reading is too low, it must get above 250 to start, check the battery voltage while cranking and if it drops below 10.5V it will not start cos the ECU doesnt open the injectors then so charge well the battery or replace it if it's old cos it can happily crank fast with high voltage drop too while the ECU misses the 12V, are you sure that the alternator works well?

 

Richy Payne

Member

• Mar 12, 2022

• #6

sierrafery said:

Hi, the immobiiser won't let it crank at all, 200rpm reading is too low, it must get above 250 to start, check the battery voltage while cranking and if it drops below 10.5V it will not start cos the ECU doesnt open the injectors then so charge well the battery or replace it if it's old cos it can happily crank fast with high voltage drop too while the ECU misses the 12V, are you sure that the alternator works well?

Click to expand...

Ahh, interesting; the battery is 11.71volts and is a one year old odyssey so I think I might put it on charge for a bit and try again. I'll check that fuel pressure too though....

Thanks,
Richy

 

sierrafery

Well-Known Member

• Mar 12, 2022

• #7

Did you miss the link in my first reply with the fuel pump voltage check? The battery voltage is relevant WHILE CRANKING...if it's 11.7 stationary it's too weak

 

ronsealdeath

Sagging Member

• Mar 13, 2022

• #8

Check pressure by using an oil pressure tester put in place of the temp sensor on the FPR. Should be 4 bar