Sieklo

Member
Hi, everyone I got my D2 TD5 2years ago, since this year I think my fuel economy has dropped significantly, like am getting 440km(273miles) out of 70L(15UK Gallon), car is form late 98’ automatic with 10p engine mapped to around 170hp, 2’ lift, 235/85 MT tires, steel bumper font and rear. Am I over reacting or is it bad fuel economy?
I’ve checked the maf sensor and it shows 55-60 on idle at around 600 on WOT
And Injector balance is not more than -3, mostly it hovers around 0 and -2 on all injectors.
At the beginning of this year car was a the garage cause head gasket went bad, they didn’t say what gasket was previously on the car, and said they put 3 dot one, so the thickest one available. Aside of fuel economy I think it there is more black smoke at WOT.
Thanks in advance for any advice and input on that topic.
 
mine was horrendous on fuel around 21mpg If memory serves.

They're not economical cars, mix the TD5 with the Auto with the relatively high stall converter + bigger tires + a remap you're not going to get good consumption :)
 
mine was horrendous on fuel around 21mpg If memory serves.

They're not economical cars, mix the TD5 with the Auto with the relatively high stall converter + bigger tires + a remap you're not going to get good consumption :)
Okay, yeah that converter is really dropping that MPG around the town, mine is getting around 17MPG 50/50 highway/city. Now am trying to source V8 converter but is hard to get one here where I live.
 
Your figures are around 18mpg.
Whether that's OK depends on your usage / journeys, I reckon...
If you're driving through fields in "low", 18mpg would be quite good ?

Mine is 2001 td5 auto, completely standard, EGRincl, std wheels+tyres, no lift, no chiptune.
It stays in "high", is properly serviced, with good components eg turbo/radiator/intercooler etc.

If I do very short hops (1 to2 miles, coolant stays cold/cool) it drops below your figure.

If I pootle around 3+ miles + stop/start traffic, up to 10 or 15 miles, I get the book "Urban" figure i.e. 24mpg.
So I add 10 gallons every 250 miles or thereabouts. This is my normal.

And on long runs (30+ miles, motorway or fast runs) I get around 30mpg.

So - what kind of trips are you doing...?
 
98’ automatic with 10p engine mapped to around 170hp, 2’ lift, 235/85 MT tires, steel bumper font and rear. Am I over reacting or is it bad fuel economy?
Depends much on what kind of remap you have too but with those huge tyres(10% bigger than std) on a heavy automatic that consumption is not surprising at all to me, i explained many times the bad effect of more than 5% bigger tyres especially on autos i'll not repeat again, one of many examples here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/disco-2-air-2”-lift.389774/post-5631952
 
Your figures are around 18mpg.
Whether that's OK depends on your usage / journeys, I reckon...
If you're driving through fields in "low", 18mpg would be quite good ?

Mine is 2001 td5 auto, completely standard, EGRincl, std wheels+tyres, no lift, no chiptune.
It stays in "high", is properly serviced, with good components eg turbo/radiator/intercooler etc.

If I do very short hops (1 to2 miles, coolant stays cold/cool) it drops below your figure.

If I pootle around 3+ miles + stop/start traffic, up to 10 or 15 miles, I get the book "Urban" figure i.e. 24mpg.
So I add 10 gallons every 250 miles or thereabouts. This is my normal.

And on long runs (30+ miles, motorway or fast runs) I get around 30mpg.

So - what kind of trips are you doing...?
Okay, so the figures I put on top of this post are from ~200km of highway / extra urban, doing 90-100km/h on lockup, so around 1900rpm, the rest stop and go traffic in the city. Most of the time now, I am I doing in high range. Sometimes I go offroad, but I am notn't adding up to this calculation. But day to day am driving around city doing 20km(12 uk Miles) but it's Stop/start traffic.

I am servicing it myself, so I am trying to use the best parts and fluids I can.

Depends much on what kind of remap you have too but with those huge tyres(10% bigger than std) on a heavy automatic that consumption is not surprising at all to me, i explained many times the bad effect of more than 5% bigger tyres especially on autos i'll not repeat again, one of many examples here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/disco-2-air-2”-lift.389774/post-5631952
I've bought the car with reamp installed, so I don't know who did it or how it was done.
That is a good write-up in your link. Also, I've installed an EGT probe throu EGR block of plate. Around town, it rarely goes to 400*C. I would say those are my EGT numbers:
City: 250-350* (doing 40-70km/h)
Ex-urban/highway 400-500* (90-110km/h)
Going uphill ~600*C 90/95km/h on lockup ~1900rpm
 
City: 250-350* (doing 40-70km/h)
Ex-urban/highway 400-500* (90-110km/h)
Going uphill ~600*C 90/95km/h on lockup ~1900rpm
what if you kick it down uphill to 3000rpm on a longer climb?... i doubt it doesnt peak up to 800

Now compare them with mine on std tyres:

City: max 250 usually flashing below 200 (doing 40-70km/h)
Ex-urban/highway 250 -max 300 (90-110km/h)
Going uphill max 400*C 90/95km/h ... i rarely see 550 flooring it in 4'th as mine is manual

do you by any chance have a coolant temp gauge too? when i had only about 4% bigger tyres it ran with 105-110 quite often while the dash gauge stays at the middle from 70 up to 119*C also the consumption was higher( around12 litres/km)... it never exceeded 95 collant temp since i refitted std tyres not even towing and the average consumption is around 10l/km ... while your tyres are 10% bigger and the vehicle heavyer being auto and with steel bumpers, think about that

if the remap you "inherited" is an old school injector duration type you can't expect to be better... if you insist to keep such huge tyres get a proper AFR based stage 1 remap addapted to those tyres
 
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what if you kick it down uphill to 3000rpm?

Now compare them with mine on std tyres:

City: max 250 usually flashing below 200 (doing 40-70km/h)
Ex-urban/highway 250 -max 300 (90-110km/h)
Going uphill max 400*C 90/95km/h ... i rarely see 550 flooring it in 4'th as mine is manual

do you by any chance have a coolant temp gauge too? when i had only about 4% bigger tyres it ran with 105-110 quite often while the dash gauge stays at the middle from 70 up to 119*C also the consumption was higher( around12 litres/km)... it never exceeded 95 collant temp since i refitted std tyres not even towing and the average consumption is around 10l/km ... while you tyres are 10% bigger and the vehicle heavyer

if the remap you "inherited" is an old school injector duration type you can't expect to be better... if you insist to keep such huge tyres get a proper AFR based remap addapted to those tyres
On big hills I drop it to 3 form Drive and it has around 2500rpm with lockup and EGT's drops to ~500*C, boost stays at around 1.2/1.25 bar. Ihave "Hybrid" with billet compressor wheel lying around but i need to get it tested before putting it back to the car.
I have similar setup to yours, A-pilar two pod gauge, ECT and EGT, Mine is running around 85-89* and on big hills it's not going over 95* when EGT are up in 500's

Am thinking about geting my reamp done at TD5Inside by mailing my ECU to them.
 
Am thinking about geting my reamp done at TD5Inside
I've seen some defeders with theyr's tuning, IMO they are good only for competition vehicles not for daily drivers. I spent a lot of money and tried 4 different remaps and the best i've got was from Alive tuning UK but i have a friend in in UK who arranged things and sent me the ECU in private( i bought a quite cheap untouched MSB on ebay which was collected by my friend and sent to Alive then to me).
 

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