Ok
I have just got back from a drive and i got my ATF and parked it up and I'm going to drive it up onto blocks on all 4 wheels to make it level

But on my journey i had 2 problems with it
First i backed out of a space then drive wouldn't engage the a few mins later it was fine

But now the light on the selector that shows what gear had been selected wont come on for the drive position and it won't display d on the clocks anymore any idea what could cause that?

I will do the fluid first when it's cold enough
 
Icantthinkofagoodusername said:
Ok
I have just got back from a drive and i got my ATF and parked it up and I'm going to drive it up onto blocks on all 4 wheels to make it level

But on my journey i had 2 problems with it
First i backed out of a space then drive wouldn't engage the a few mins later it was fine

But now the light on the selector that shows what gear had been selected wont come on for the drive position and it won't display d on the clocks anymore any idea what could cause that?

I will do the fluid first when it's cold enough
Click to expand...
I wonder if they aligned the wxyz switch correctly when they replaced the ‘box?
 
Icantthinkofagoodusername said:
Ok thank you h
I'm about to dive under and do the oil but where can I find this switch?
Click to expand...
It is on the left hand side of the gearbox (called the starter inhibitor), partially (or completely!!!) obscured by the exhaust downpipe and catalyst. You probably need to get yourself a copy of the RAVE workshop manual (if you haven't already), but here are a couple of bits from it, many are able to get to it without removing the front pipe:):
upload_2022-12-10_15-49-25.png

upload_2022-12-10_15-50-25.png
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Hopefully you are slim enough to be able to get under the truck when it is sat on the floor/road if so no problem. Get under it and loosen off the filler plug it's an allen key socket so needs an allen key, I use one from my kit in a 3/8th drive socket. Just loosen it off so it'll come out quickly and easily once the engine is running.
Prep your plant sprayer by putting a fair amount of ATF in it and pressurising it. Remove the end of the spray arm so you have a bare tube but the trigger is still there and working, point the end of the tube into the ATF bottle and work the trigger until the ATF is coming out. Put the plant sprayer bottle near the drivers door but upright obviously. Put the business end of the spray arm under the truck on a piece of newspaper or summat to keep it clean.
Then get in the truck and run the engine. Once running, run it through all the gear positions slowly but evenly i.e. into D, hold it for a second or two, then three, hold it, then 2 , same thing,then 1, then back the same again then reverse, then park, then neutral etc . Leave it in either P or Neutral. I prefer neutral. Leave the engine running.
Get under the truck. Remove the plug and trigger the sprayer into the box and wait until it runs freely. Release the trigger and then put the plug back in. Stop the engine then check the plug is in tight but not too tight.
Job done.
For a year and a half I had a leak from the gearbox where it joins the torque converter housing so I was doing this a lot. I got so I could do it in about 15 mins with minimum ATF loss. Kept the tools in the door pocket and the plant sprayer in the boot so I could do it at a M way service area.
But seriously, if it is a secondhand box I think you need to change the filter and the fluid. Look at the colour of what comes out. If it is brown not red it needs changing.
Feck it no matter what the colour, for the cost of a filter kit and the ATF, do it anyway. Expect to get ATF dripping down all the time you are under it with the gearbox sump off. This is the ATF that stays in the box.
I am nowhere near a manual or anything but you can find which ATF to put in online.
Plant sprayer like this is what you need doesn't have to be an expensive one.
Amazon product
And you could worse than get this kit.
https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/discovery-2-automatic-gearbox-filter-kit-with-atf-fluid/
Best of luck with it.

I am assuming you are doing this on your own. If you have a mate or partner it is better but not essential.
Click to expand...



So i did all of this exactly how you said leaving it running in neutral and when i got under it and as soon a the fill bolt came off ATF fluid came out like a tap

The thing dumped about 2 liters out before i got the plug back in

I don't know what went wrong and if my box was overfilled or something else is wrong
 
I didnt understand too much of that procedure with plant sprayer nor what you mean by
Icantthinkofagoodusername said:
...leaving it running in neutral and when i got under it and as soon a the fill bolt came off ATF fluid came out like a tap...
Click to expand...
so you let it run in neutral with filler plug in it's place first and removed the plug with engine running or how? the filler plug is supposed to be removed once the box was drained not before then refitted after it was filled according to the steps in the procedure described in the WSM cos otherwise there can be a certain pressure in the box

from the WSM:
Replace oil
1. Ensure that gearbox is cool. Apply
handbrake and securely chock front and rear
wheels.
2. Place a suitable container beneath gearbox.
3. Clean area around oil filler/level and drain
plugs.
4. Remove oil drain plug, remove and discard
sealing washer.
5. Allow oil to drain.
6. Fit new sealing washer to oil drain plug.
7. Fit automatic gearbox drain plug and tighten to
15 Nm (11 lbf.ft).
8. Remove oil filler/level plug, remove and discard
sealing washer.
9. Fill gearbox with recommended oil to bottom of
oil level/filler plug hole.
10. Select 'P' (Park).
11. Ensure handbrake is applied.
12. Start engine and allow it to idle.
13. Apply footbrake.
14. Move selector lever through all gear positions,
while continuing to fill the gearbox. Select 'P'
(Park).
15. With engine idling, continue filling gearbox until
a 2 mm bead of oil runs from oil filler/level plug
hole.
16. Fit new sealing washer to automatic gearbox
filler/level plug, fit plug and tighten to 30 Nm (22
lbf.ft).
17. Stop engine.

Better download a workshop manual and do things like there
 
I hate to ask the obvious question but will, and then leave:).

You did take out the fill plug and not the drain plug?

J
 
The earlier comments are ment to describe just doing a top up so i remove the fill bolt i didn't plan on draining the box at all but something is up and it seems to be overfilled or i have done something wrong
 
sierrafery said:
so you let it run in neutral with filler plug in it's place first and removed the plug with engine running or how? the filler plug is supposed to be removed once the box was drained not before then refitted after it was filled according to the steps in the procedure described in the WSM cos otherwise there can be a certain pressure in the box
Click to expand...

I would like to ask how is the sump pressured as the gearbox has a vent, also once running the level should be below or level with the filler/level plug.
So if fluid comes out it’s been over filled or the correct procedure has not been followed.
Just not sure what you mean or how this is possible.

J
 
Sounds to me that it has been overfilled, but do it again and this time with the box cool, and then leave it in P.
I seriously don't think it'll be any different but you never know.
The point of the whole business of leaving the engine running is to ensure that all the passages, gears and the torque converter are full of fluid when the level is checked.
When warm it is possible that is has expanded a bit and yes maybe some pressure has built up.
At least you know it was running with a good amount of ATF in it.
It'll be interesting to see how much you need to put back in. If the answer to that is "none, in fact it ran out for quite a while." then it deffo was overfilled and I have no idea how anyone would do that short of opening up the top of the box and pouring it in.
One last thing, was the car horizontal both back to front and side to side?
Also now wondering if there is any other bolt/plug that could have been removed instead of the fill plug on the front of the box.
Edit.
I notice you did say you'd do it once the box was cool and I think we are all agreed that doing it hot is a no no, so I don't think the temp is an issue, provided you did it relatively cool. If you were doing it in the African sun it'd be about as warm as here in winter after a short run and then a cool down. What I am saying is it needs to be warm enough to run through the filter, if it is dirty.
 
Last edited:
marjon said:
I would like to ask how is the sump pressured as the gearbox has a vent,
Click to expand...
So do you think that if there is a vent pipe in the rear output housing the oil has no pressure within the box? The breather has nothing to do with the lubrication circuit's pressure, it has to do with air, if you remove the filler plug of a running gearbox after it was filled and closed oil will come out every time unless it ddnt leak out some of it especially if the filter is full of muck, two relevant quotes:

1. The gearbox features a pressure lubrication system and is cooled by pumping the lubricant through an oil cooler.
2. Breather allows the transmission to breathe air when the air inside transmission expands or contracts due to heating and cooling of lubricating oil during vehicle running. Breather allows the hot air to escape and cool air to enter into the transmission to prevent overheating issue.
 
Last edited:
I have been thinking about this and came to two conclusions.
Firstly maybe a serious seeming amount of fluid came out but not as much as the OP said, don't think he was in a position to measure it.
Secondly, if the filter is seriously clogged that would prevent the fluid dropping back into the sump quickly, which might lead to a large amount piling up above the sump ready to pee out once the filler plug is released. He did say that on the first start of the day it took a while to act properly which again points to a clogged filter, imho.
Again, seriously looking forward to what happens when he does it again with the box not hot and in P although I really, really don't think it being in P makes much difference.
 
Ok tomorrow I will try again doing the exact same procedure but with it cold and in park I will get my catch can this time and let it put out the over fill until it is just trickling like the manual says



As for the amount of fluid it gave me a mini heart attack seeing a full on flow of atf coming at my head (feel free to laugh) it has made a puddle with the diameter around the length between the chassis rails and took 10 rags to smother the puddle to stop it spreading more and the atf was still leaking out strong before I put the plug in to stop it (it was down my arm and in my face)


The gearbox sump was warmish to the touch and the fluid seemed to be on the turn from red to brown but it's was getting dark so I will review the scene of the crime tomorrow

But would overfilling cause it to not want to engage drive? It refused to engage drive to go out of the parking at my storage and onto my blocks, in my travels before hand

Also drive and 1 are the only ones that it refused to display p, r, n, 2 & 3 all display fine
 
Last edited:
Stanleysteamer said:
I have been thinking about this and came to two conclusions.
Firstly maybe a serious seeming amount of fluid came out but not as much as the OP said, don't think he was in a position to measure it.
Secondly, if the filter is seriously clogged that would prevent the fluid dropping back into the sump quickly, which might lead to a large amount piling up above the sump ready to pee out once the filler plug is released. He did say that on the first start of the day it took a while to act properly which again points to a clogged filter, imho.
Again, seriously looking forward to what happens when he does it again with the box not hot and in P although I really, really don't think it being in P makes much difference.
Click to expand...

A blocked filter... Do they do kits with all the orings and stuff to change one?
 
Stanleysteamer said:
I have been thinking about this and came to two conclusions.
Firstly maybe a serious seeming amount of fluid came out but not as much as the OP said, don't think he was in a position to measure it.
Secondly, if the filter is seriously clogged that would prevent the fluid dropping back into the sump quickly, which might lead to a large amount piling up above the sump ready to pee out once the filler plug is released. He did say that on the first start of the day it took a while to act properly which again points to a clogged filter, imho.
Again, seriously looking forward to what happens when he does it again with the box not hot and in P although I really, really don't think it being in P makes much difference.
Click to expand...


Would it act up at all in any other way if the filter was blocked? It shifts fine and when I first checked the heat as soon as it was up on blocks so I could find the fill bolt and the right tool, it didn't feel too hot
 
Icantthinkofagoodusername said:
A blocked filter... Do they do kits with all the orings and stuff to change one?
Click to expand...
Yes and they are cheapish. When I did mine one of the six mounting fittings was bust so some other cackhanded tw@t had been in there at some point. So I cleaned it very carefully and glued it together with JB weld, it's held ever since. I also couldn't get the new sump gasket to stay straight on it so put the old one back on, it has never leaked.
If the colour is at all brown, change it.
As you can see I have been ruminating about the temp at which you did it and i am sure it wasn't anywhere near too hot. Maybe the not being in P would make a difference but I honestly don't think so. Only you having another bash at it will enlighten us. And my memory may be playing up and I may put it back into P after leaving it in Neutral while I ready my kit, you have got me wondering now!
I also was thinking, what if the previous owner took the box off, held it vertical with the rear flange and whatever on the floor or bench and just poured a bit of ATF in? that could over fill it for sure.
 
Icantthinkofagoodusername said:
Ok tomorrow I will try again doing the exact same procedure but with it cold and in park I will get my catch can this time and let it put out the over fill until it is just trickling like the manual says



As for the amount of fluid it gave me a mini heart attack seeing a full on flow of atf coming at my head (feel free to laugh) it has made a puddle with the diameter around the length between the chassis rails and took 10 rags to smother the puddle to stop it spreading more and the atf was still leaking out strong before I put the plug in to stop it (it was down my arm and in my face)


The gearbox sump was warmish to the touch and the fluid seemed to be on the turn from red to brown but it's was getting dark so I will review the scene of the crime tomorrow

But would overfilling cause it to not want to engage drive? It refused to engage drive to go out of the parking at my storage and onto my blocks, in my travels before hand

Also drive and 1 are the only ones that it refused to display p, r, n, 2 & 3 all display fine
Click to expand...
Sure sounds like a lot of ATF, but not 2 litres you couldn't soak that up with 10 rags!

I think you need to get the level sorted and preferably a clean filter in first then address the not taking up drive and the lights in the indicator issues as they, I don't think, are related. It sounds a lot more like the XYZ switch is playing up or misaligned. Maybe there is also a fault in the gearbox ECU but let's not get ahead of ourselves yet.;)
There is also the notorious P clip issue but more on that if necessary.:confused:
 
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