Stance

Stance

Well-Known Member
Will change the brake master cylinder soon and wondering what is best option for the replacement. I have year 2000 Discovery, LHD. Lucas? Britpart? Any recommendations?
 
sierrafery said:
Steer clear of Britpart that's for sure cos it's about life, go for PMN222 from TRW
Click to expand...

Got this TRW part yesterday from Autodoc and installed today. Tomorrow bleeding when I get my mate to help with the pedal.

20221015_130613.jpg
 
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All I can say is have plenty of brake fluid and keep an eye on the fluid level after bleeding a couple of corners.
I did an all around manual bleed with mate in the driver's seat, then used the Nanocom to bleed, then did another manual bleed. My braking felt better but still not 'solid'.
Good Luck!
 
JUKE179r said:
All I can say is have plenty of brake fluid and keep an eye on the fluid level after bleeding a couple of corners.
I did an all around manual bleed with mate in the driver's seat, then used the Nanocom to bleed, then did another manual bleed. My braking felt better but still not 'solid'.
Good Luck!
Click to expand...

Yes, thanks for the good lucks! Bleeding seems to be a bigger task than I thought. Done both bleeding with Foxwell and manually and have air in the system.
 
Be aware that the D2's pedal will never be rock solid as there are expansion chambers in the modulator, if you insist on the pedal even when it's well bled it will always go down slowly once the pads are locked, important is to have good braking distance

did you bleed them in the right order from shortest to longest line as in the book?
 
sierrafery said:
if you insist on the pedal even when it's well bled it will always go down slowly once the pads are locked, important is to have good braking distance
Click to expand...

Really? So pedal can be slowly pushed to the floor even when it is properly bled?

Maybe I have to test it then on my yard and try the braking. It's now in my garage front on jack stands.
 
Still not done with bleeding. New master cylinder in place and done numerous rounds first bleeding the ABS modulator with Foxwell tool, keeping the pedal down and air screws shut. Then going through every corner in order both manually pressing the pedal and by using the Power Bleed in Foxwell. Sometimes the pedal starts to feel good but after awhile you can slowly push the pedal to the floor. And it's even worse with booster, car running.
 
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How can it be normal to have the pedal sink to the floor? It's closed system, where does the fluid extend if it is not leaking?
 
Read again post 6 and eventually study the workshop manual how the modulator is built, there are EXPANSION CHAMBERS in it....or keep bleeding it untill you get really old and fed up with it :rolleyes:
 
This design is somehow different than any other abs system? Like Freelander from the same era?
 
Took the car on wheels and drove it carefully on my yard. Breaks are very poor, car will eventually stop but wouldn't drive on public roads. So back to bleeding then.
 
Did you add the o-ring to the lip of the brake booster? I'm not sure if that helps or not with retaining negative vacuum pressure
 
JUKE179r said:
Did you add the o-ring to the lip of the brake booster? I'm not sure if that helps or not with retaining negative vacuum pressure
Click to expand...

Yes, removed the old one and added a new one. The story is that I just replaced brake hoses and front calipers. Before the job I had nice braking and good pedal that didn't sunk to the floor. After replacing the hoses and calipers tried to bleed it, no luck. I don't ecen know how many liters of Dot4 I have used already Then I started to suspect that my master cylinder is faulty because of the pedal feel. Replaced that but it didn't change anything for better or worse.
 
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