D1Nut

D1Nut

Well-Known Member
There seems to be a fair amount of fixing things in the driveway on this forum so thought I would ask

I have punched a hole in my clutch fork so either g/box out or slide the gbox backwards enough

This is from an aussie forum that reckons you can slide the g/box backwards enough to change the clutch


Its just me and plenty tools but only a bottle jack so any ideas will be appreciated

thanks
 
When I changed the clutch on a D1 I supported the gearbox on a trolly made from thick ply and four strong casters, put some long studding in two of the bell house to engine holes, and pulled it back. Just enough room to manage, and the studs help pull the box back in to place and keep it aligned. A bit of a struggle, but if you do not have a pit may be a suitable method. Otherwise you can, just, support the engine on a crane and pull it away from the gearbox, with the rad removed, and make enough room.
 
D1Nut said:
There seems to be a fair amount of fixing things in the driveway on this forum so thought I would ask

I have punched a hole in my clutch fork so either g/box out or slide the gbox backwards enough

This is from an aussie forum that reckons you can slide the g/box backwards enough to change the clutch


Its just me and plenty tools but only a bottle jack so any ideas will be appreciated

thanks
Click to expand...

Get some stands, cos that MoFo is V heavy and if you can buy, blag or borrow a trolley jack, it'll help when it comes to wiggle time ...
 
Bit of a pain getting the top gearbox/bell housing nut off,need very long extension bar & tilt the box down at the rear helps
Would do this first then jack flat & contiue.
 
Hicap phill said:
Bit of a pain getting the top gearbox/bell housing nut off,need very long extension bar & tilt the box down at the rear helps
Would do this first then jack flat & contiue.
Click to expand...
Do I need to loosen or undo the engine mounts if the motor needs to tilt ?
 
D1Nut said:
Do I need to loosen or undo the engine mounts if the motor needs to tilt ?
Click to expand...
undone exhaust so could move a bit and that was it. Was over 25years ago when I was more nimble with spanners

If you remove the engine mounts it would drop further,but doing that you may also need all the water pipes off. Then if that’s the case engine out & leave box in.

You will also need a bottle jack to spread chassis to remove crossmembers
 
Right - so this ex computer geek did a recce of the bellhousing to come up with my devilish plan

Very top of b/housing is a stud with no nut on it
next on the drivers side going down is another stud with a nut on it
then all the bottom ones up until about 7'o clock I have a bolt and right next to it an open hole
going upwards next one is a very strange smaller bolt head that I can feel with the hand - at about the 9 0clock
above that is another stud with a nut on it

I need o remove my air intake pipe around the starter motor area to feel what else there is or isnt

My clutch was done about 7 years ago and a recon g/box about 3 years prior to that

For the life of me I don't see how tilting the g/box downwards is going to give me access to the top nuts and I have in total 800 mm of extensions at my disposal

So this post is more of a question to someone who has done this job before than a statement of facts
 
Then once bell housing is off and handbrake assembly is also off I reckon I could slide the g/box backwards enough using the cross member as a support as it looks strong enough - using a nice strong piece of wood to let the box lie on top of and enabling me to slide the wood not the box over the cross member

That's obviously after removing the two mount's completely on either side of the g/box and trf case

I suspect the use of my wide recovery strap might be needed to keep the trf box from wanting to twist downwards

as above this post is more of a question to someone who has done this job before than a statement of facts
 
In a Defefender, normally you have to tilt the gearbox down to slide it back as the gearchange turret etc hits the seatbox... it maybe different in your Disco
 
In the disco if I remove the rubber surrounding the gear lever's I probably have 10 inches to slide it backwards - so that's a plus
 
D1Nut said:
Right - so this ex computer geek did a recce of the bellhousing to come up with my devilish plan

Very top of b/housing is a stud with no nut on it
next on the drivers side going down is another stud with a nut on it
then all the bottom ones up until about 7'o clock I have a bolt and right next to it an open hole
going upwards next one is a very strange smaller bolt head that I can feel with the hand - at about the 9 0clock
above that is another stud with a nut on it

I need o remove my air intake pipe around the starter motor area to feel what else there is or isnt

My clutch was done about 7 years ago and a recon g/box about 3 years prior to that

For the life of me I don't see how tilting the g/box downwards is going to give me access to the top nuts and I have in total 800 mm of extensions at my disposal

So this post is more of a question to someone who has done this job before than a statement of facts
Click to expand...

I reckon it's to give enough clearance that a couple of good socket swivel joints would get you ...
 
After re-reading the haynes bible it speaks of studs with nuts vs bolts on the top of the bellhousing to motor face

the only difference i can find is the one stud and nut at the 7 o clock point and then the open bolt hole and the one funny at the eight o clock position

it does also say that the motor only needs to be tilted "slightly" to give access to the top undoing of the nuts/bolts
 
D1Nut said:
I dont think i was anywhere near as nervous when i got engaged to a wumin vs this "simple" fix
Click to expand...

The top bell housing nuts are a pita if you have all the sound proofing as there is just no room unless youve got girly hands lol
I lifted/removed the engine mounts & lowered it, that gave me enough room to get them off. I took the box out & just dropped
it onto a trolly. Putting it back it I split the transfer box off cause it was a tad heavy but I basically bench pressed it back in
not recommended as I could hardly breath with the weight of the transfer box on my chest. 🤣 🤣

Did you buy the uprated clutch fork with the metal plate welded onto it. :)
 
kevstar said:
The top bell housing nuts are a pita if you have all the sound proofing as there is just no room unless youve got girly hands lol
I lifted/removed the engine mounts & lowered it, that gave me enough room to get them off. I took the box out & just dropped
it onto a trolly. Putting it back it I split the transfer box off cause it was a tad heavy but I basically bench pressed it back in
not recommended as I could hardly breath with the weight of the transfer box on my chest. 🤣 🤣

Did you buy the uprated clutch fork with the metal plate welded onto it. :)
Click to expand...

I remember someone, somewhere modded the trolley jack 'cup' to hold the gearbox better ...

Darn, I can't remember if that was on here or another forum ...

Edited to add:

www.landyzone.co.uk

Trolley Jack attachment for gearbox / TF box removal and refitting.

Somewhere in the dim and distant past, I've seen an attachment for a trolley jack that fixes to the gearbox / transfer box to aid easy removal and refitting. It weren't cheap but looked well engineered. I can't find it now (tried google). Anybody know what I'm on about or got a linky or, even...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
 
Dippypud said:
I remember someone, somewhere modded the trolley jack 'cup' to hold the gearbox better ...

Darn, I can't remember if that was on here or another forum ...

Edited to add:

www.landyzone.co.uk

Trolley Jack attachment for gearbox / TF box removal and refitting.

Somewhere in the dim and distant past, I've seen an attachment for a trolley jack that fixes to the gearbox / transfer box to aid easy removal and refitting. It weren't cheap but looked well engineered. I can't find it now (tried google). Anybody know what I'm on about or got a linky or, even...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
Click to expand...

Found this one;

 
Make sure you grease the folk where it sits on the ball ended support. I think a lack of grease during the factory assembly was part of the problem.
 
Dippypud said:
I remember someone, somewhere modded the trolley jack 'cup' to hold the gearbox better ...

Darn, I can't remember if that was on here or another forum ...

Edited to add:

www.landyzone.co.uk

Trolley Jack attachment for gearbox / TF box removal and refitting.

Somewhere in the dim and distant past, I've seen an attachment for a trolley jack that fixes to the gearbox / transfer box to aid easy removal and refitting. It weren't cheap but looked well engineered. I can't find it now (tried google). Anybody know what I'm on about or got a linky or, even...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
Click to expand...

Ive seen attachments somewhere, wont be hard to find. :)
 
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